Im sure this has been asked but If i do this project I wanted to cerate my own thread to make sure I'm able to get as much information as possible for my motors sake Anyway, I have both sets of cams(CTR's & Stage 2's), currently in my car is the CTR's. I also have a set of valvetrain thats not in the car, but I figure I'm gonna throw that in there anyway. What I want is some good reliability and some decent power. My car has plenty of flow with full exhuast, Skunk2 IM, Spoon TB. I also have Hondata to tune it properly. So basically I have everything I need, just a choice of running a bigger cam. The stage 2's are left over from a previous B20 build, so I'm itching for even mroe power out of my stock bottom end.
Simply my question is this; What cam should i use for the most power and reliability? Obviosuly the CTR will be more reliable, but I plan on revving out the bottom end to 8500. How strong are the rods and bolts off the GSR for 8500? Then there are the Stage 2's. I know im going to over-cam my motor, but will the top end just be superior? My buddy put his stage 's on his B16a2 also with exactly what I have and Made 170WHP, so I figured I could possibly make 180 whp? Any ideas? Thanks for your time everyone!

 

I wouldn't exactly consider S2S2's over caming your motor....they will work well on the B18c and will make more power than the CTR cams. Ideally if you can bump your compression up a little higher by using a thin head gasket, flat faced valves and/or planing the head a little to get around 11:1, it would be better with those stage 2 cams. The bottom end of the GSR is plenty strong to rev to 8500, so don't worry. The rods are factory forged and the rod bolts are used in many race engines as well. Honda engines are built very strong from the factory unlike most domestic engines that require piston/rod/rod bolts to be upgraded to make power reliably. Reliability and power will not be an issue running either cam you have.

 

yea, I have a milled head in the garage thats been shaved off so many times I don't even want to chance the clearance on it. Plus, i'd rather not remove my head on of a perfectly stock 2001 gsr motor you know? anyone else got some input? thank u red_sir for urs

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't exactly consider S2S2's over caming your motor....they will work well on the B18c and will make more power than the CTR cams. Ideally if you can bump your compression up a little higher by using a thin head gasket, flat faced valves and/or planing the head a little to get around 11:1, it would be better with those stage 2 cams. The bottom end of the GSR is plenty strong to rev to 8500, so don't worry. The rods are factory forged and the rod bolts are used in many race engines as well. Honda engines are built very strong from the factory unlike most domestic engines that require piston/rod/rod bolts to be upgraded to make power reliably. Reliability and power will not be an issue running either cam you have.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i don't think he'll be overcamming his motor.
TODA C's were made for the B16B and look how huge they are.
also, i don't believe the stock gsr rods are factory forged, and i don't know anyone who chooses to use stock gsr rod bolts on their race engines, unless they're on a budget and already have them.

if your car is a daily driver, my question would be which cams would have more midrange.

 

it is my daily driver, but I want as much power as possible, even if I have to rev 8500 to get it cus of the great airflow i have. Idk, im just not happy with the speed I have now, but thats cus im using stock ecu and valvetrain. Either way the hondata is going in, but i just figured I could get more power out the stage 2 and be reliable yea?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EVOL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ialso, i don't believe the stock gsr rods are factory forged, and i don't know anyone who chooses to use stock gsr rod bolts on their race engines, unless they're on a budget and already have them.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Stock GSR and Type R factory rods are forged, B16 rods are not. Many people swap out the factory rods for lighter (in some cases) aftermarket forgings and additional strength. Some engine builders replace all of the main cap and cylinder head bolts with high strength ARP studs. Studs torque more accurately than bolts and hold parts together in pure compression without any of the local high-stress points caused by a bolts wind-up as it's torqued. This is the main reason why hard core racers switch over to ARP studs/bolts over stock, but stock bolts are very strong and not typically prone to failure.

 

BIG BUMP-didnt want to start same thread.

-I am looking to do the same thing to my stock bottom end b18c1. (Its starting to sound like a diesel and im pretty sure it is the valve train) I also want as much power as possible out of a daily driver without changing the pistons. Are skunk 2 stage 2 to aggressive for street driving on the stock bottom end - (i also plan to use a thin headgasket and mill my head) If not to aggressive, would a ferrea valve train (Valves, springs, retainers)be a good thing to go along with the cams?

 

i'm currently running on 82mm itr pistons on my stock gsr rods making 191whp on crower stage 3 cams. no rod bolts up graded at all and i have rev it to 9 for about a year. that must have been more than 40 race i've done. i don't know if its my luck or what but it hasn't gone yet. i don't know much about aftermarket rods, but i know they'll do better if your scare of pushing your stock motor.

 

i was actually heading up the same way and the only thing im missing is the cam and the ecu but ive got all the valvetrain i needed for the build...my dilemma to begin is if its worth doing all that work for the power gains. The other question is the life expectancy of the motor considering i dont beat on the car a lot...

 

haha i op-ted to go with the ctr's, just cus i don't wanna dela with the swap of the cams It works now so im just gonna leave ti alone for awhile

 

stage 2 cams fosho!

 

CTR is not a bad choice but dont expect much because i currently got that now and they are not bad but i know bumping up the comp and a nice set of cams, i can pull much more what i have now...

 

for sure. at this point it's also reliability for me too, this is my only car and i dont' wanna run high comp in it so yea.

 

Would milling the head and using a thin layer head gasket not yield enough compression for sknk 2 stg 2 cams? Thats what i read in the team-integra website.

Are the skunk 2 pro1's the same as the stage 1's? Are they between the stg 1 and stage 2?

What cams would give me the most power out of my b18c1 with stock pistons, milling the head and using a thin headgasket?

 

[QUOTE=

Are the skunk 2 pro1's the same as the stage 1's? Are they between the stg 1 and stage 2?

What cams would give me the most power out of my b18c1 with stock pistons, milling the head and using a thin headgasket?
[/QUOTE]

pro 1 is totally different from stage 1, they are definitely more aggressive than stage 1 but close enough to be stage 2 cams...but i think the primary on pro 1 is more aggressive than stage 2....considring ur milling the head and flat valves and thinner head gasket, u can probably get close to 190whp...id say between 180-190whp...im not sure but i think ive seen here one time where someone posted with dyno sheet

 

do you think i should go with stage 2 cams or the pro 1 cam? Or is there a cam that is between the stage 1 and stage2 made by a different company?

Ya, i am hoping for 180-190 with the set up.

Going with:
Blox IM
Port and polish head
Greddy or dc header
skunk exhaust
hondata s200
bore out stock tb
new valves, springs, retainers - probably ferrea

 

94DOHC...i was actually of thinking of the same route but make sure that u upgrade ur valvetrain with pro 1 and get urself some nice flat valves, thinner headgasket...and a nice tuning device (nice ecu...aem preferred but too much...i just read a lot bout them..in addition to this, you can upgrade your bottom end and gain more because the cams is actually design for 11 and up comp and considering ur doing everything above, you can definitely come close to that compressio ratio and be at the safe side at the same time...the only issue i heard from pro 1 is the idle because the primary is so big that thy kind of going up and down...but it can be fixed wit a nice ecu...so its ur choice...

 

What do you think about the m22xx instead of the stg 2's. Are they pretty much the same? I couldnt find any info.

 

M22 is always the most talk about here bout never had any experience with them, i know that a lot of hT member here has them on their cars...The only reason i tend to lean towards the skunk2 is because of reliability...dont get me wrong that M22 is not reliable...im pretty sure that they are just as good or probably better but pretty much the shops that i called here in IL recommended skunk2 or Jun...so thats up to u what u want to get

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smkngsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">M22 is always the most talk about here bout never had any experience with them, i know that a lot of hT member here has them on their cars...The only reason i tend to lean towards the skunk2 is because of reliability...dont get me wrong that M22 is not reliable...im pretty sure that they are just as good or probably better but pretty much the shops that i called here in IL recommended skunk2 or Jun...so thats up to u what u want to get</TD></TR></TABLE>

reliabililty boils down to the guy grinding down the cams to it's spec.
i have yet to hear of any m22 or any rocket motorsports cam owners say their cams broke.. doesn't he have a warranty too?

 

CTR's is the better choice for a bone stock 18c1. and, for the people that think headstuds are for "hardcore racers" well, i read that Ericks Racing uses oem Head Bolts on his n/a race motor. but, don't you know....we are the real racers......dumbass

 

Ive done more research and am now going to go with the buddy club spec III's. A website said they are perfect for engines wiht a cp ration of 10 to 13. And they are cheaper than the skunk 2 stage 2's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94DOHCGsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you think i should go with stage 2 cams or the pro 1 cam? Or is there a cam that is between the stage 1 and stage2 made by a different company?

Ya, i am hoping for 180-190 with the set up.

Going with:
Blox IM
Port and polish head
Greddy or dc header
skunk exhaust
hondata s200
bore out stock tb
new valves, springs, retainers - probably ferrea</TD></TR></TABLE>


If you have a usdm gsr motor that will be very close.

But i've got alot of my buddies dynoing in the high 180's to low 190's
on stock compression
stock cams
Just blox Intake manifold
jdm Itr header
n1 or fujitsubo exhaust
65mm tb
Aem Cai
No A/C
No Powersteering
and a skunk2 chip
thats it for engine work
then light weight flywheel and stuff like that.

Jdm gsr in a 00 gsr 14.3 98mph
jdm gsr in a 00 si 14.1 98mph both cars dynoed in the 180's
si has stock jdm gsr header and b16tb

remember usdm gsr compression is only like 10.0 ir 10.2 jdm gsr is 10.6 which makes power a little easier to gain.

but I believe what will gain you the most is your compression. Get it raised alittle and you'll be good to go. Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redline23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


If you have a usdm gsr motor that will be very close.

But i've got alot of my buddies dynoing in the high 180's to low 190's
on stock compression
stock cams
Just blox Intake manifold
jdm Itr header
n1 or fujitsubo exhaust
65mm tb
Aem Cai
No A/C
No Powersteering
and a skunk2 chip
thats it for engine work
then light weight flywheel and stuff like that.

Jdm gsr in a 00 gsr 14.3 98mph
jdm gsr in a 00 si 14.1 98mph both cars dynoed in the 180's
si has stock jdm gsr header and b16tb

remember usdm gsr compression is only like 10.0 ir 10.2 jdm gsr is 10.6 which makes power a little easier to gain.

but I believe what will gain you the most is your compression. Get it raised alittle and you'll be good to go. Good luck.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you would prefer to go with the buddyclubIII + over the sknk 2 stage 2? I just love how much midrange is in the buddyclubIII's.