Newb needing maintenance help
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Honda-Tech Member
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From: WORKING for MY stuff in, CA, United States
so, i noticed this when i jacked my car up one day...my dad says its a boot that has broken, and he read my helms book. anyways, he has a decent knowledge of cars, and he seems to think it will be too much work to do on our own. (i...still learning, of course, want to do it ourselves). Anyone know what exactly is wrong?, what parts we would need?, dad says we need special tools?, and how long it would take?
thanks in advance.
heres the pictures (passenger side front wheel):



this oil, or fluid is all over the place

edit: no noticeable change in the way it drives, so it doesnt seem like anythings damaged very much.
thanks in advance.
heres the pictures (passenger side front wheel):



this oil, or fluid is all over the place

edit: no noticeable change in the way it drives, so it doesnt seem like anythings damaged very much.
thats the CV boot on your axle, your going to need to replace the axle, its not really hard, but it depends on your skill and amount of tools
i think you can get oem axles for like 100 bucks w\ a lifetime warranty
i think you can get oem axles for like 100 bucks w\ a lifetime warranty
you dont NEED one but a new boot is just going to be a band aid but it might last since you caught it early. an axel replacement is cake, now replacing the boot i dunno.....i myslef have to do that since i have the kit
That's just a torn axle boot (outer). It's not a difficult job if you know what you're doing and you have the tools to get it done. However, if you and your dad don't feel confident enough or simply don't want to go through the trouble, you can have it done for you at any reputable shop for a low price. I know shops around here who do it for $25-$35 including the minute cost of a new boot and axle grease, and it doesn't take very long if the shop isn't super busy at the time.
In most cases you won't notice a difference in driveability immediately because the boot is only in place to keep the axle grease where it's supposed to be- Lubricating the CV joints. But eventually with the combination of the axle grease being spun out of the torn boot and dirt being allowed around the joints, you can damage the CV joints and eventually it'll just break.
Try to get it fixed asap, and if you and your dad are willing, try a DIY.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AbitAvenger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats the CV boot on your axle, your going to need to replace the axle
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You may not need to replace the axle, but you should always be open to this option because you can't be certain of the extent of the damage already incurred to the CV joint. A general sign of CV joints going bad is "clicking" noises coming from the suspected axle while turning your steering wheel when driving. New axles aren't too expensive and like ^ he said you can get some OEMs w/ a lifetime warranty for cheap.
In most cases you won't notice a difference in driveability immediately because the boot is only in place to keep the axle grease where it's supposed to be- Lubricating the CV joints. But eventually with the combination of the axle grease being spun out of the torn boot and dirt being allowed around the joints, you can damage the CV joints and eventually it'll just break.
Try to get it fixed asap, and if you and your dad are willing, try a DIY.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AbitAvenger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats the CV boot on your axle, your going to need to replace the axle
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You may not need to replace the axle, but you should always be open to this option because you can't be certain of the extent of the damage already incurred to the CV joint. A general sign of CV joints going bad is "clicking" noises coming from the suspected axle while turning your steering wheel when driving. New axles aren't too expensive and like ^ he said you can get some OEMs w/ a lifetime warranty for cheap.
not hard at all , but I would highly recomend getting a new axle. follow the helms and make shure you get a torque wrench to snug all bolts prop.!that old one will come back to haunt you most likely.....plus once you buy a new one from (pep boys , orielly , checker/ shucks/kragen , auto zone , abc auto , etc... you will have a life time warranty, I have already used that warranty twice . GOOD LUCK
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From: I moved far away from cornz fieldz, IL
Wow I think thats the worst ive ever seen a cv boot. Yeah its not hard, I think there are several threads on here that have very good pics. But nothing is going to beat your helms. The hardest part is getting your ball joint seperated. Just takes a lil time thats all.
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here is a tutorial on axle replacement: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=382416
Shouldn't be to hard to do, just go at it slow and don't rush yourself.
i've done 2 axle changes and it has taken around 2- 3 hours to do!
diy
(saves money and you know more about your car and whats going on)
Shouldn't be to hard to do, just go at it slow and don't rush yourself.
i've done 2 axle changes and it has taken around 2- 3 hours to do!
diy
(saves money and you know more about your car and whats going on)
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From: WORKING for MY stuff in, CA, United States
alright, first of all..thanks for all the quick and informative replies.. okay, so if i just replaced the boot..what could be the consequences..i mean, will it eventually get back like it is again right now?, and i will have to buy a new axle...or will it cause greater damage to just replace the boot and not the axle right now?..(im low on cash)..also, you are all saying "if you have the tools"..what exactly would i need?...we have all general tools, plus an air compressor. would i need to go buy some "special tools" from honda?
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From: I moved far away from cornz fieldz, IL
Just replacing the boots, isnt a bad idea but might as well take the time and do the axles. Normaly would be like $50 more per side, and they would come with a warranty where the boots might not. The special tool you would need is to get the ball joint seperated. Also I think its a 32mm socket to get the axle nut off.
if you replace the boot it will cause premature wear from the dirt and **** that got in there, but i doubt that will a big problem for you since you got it right away and theres still grease in there.
and if you ever need special tools, dont buy them from honda
and if you ever need special tools, dont buy them from honda
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turner7205 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just replacing the boots, isnt a bad idea but might as well take the time and do the axles. Normaly would be like $50 more per side, and they would come with a warranty where the boots might not. The special tool you would need is to get the ball joint seperated. Also I think its a 32mm socket to get the axle nut off.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you dont need a ball joint puller, i learned a new trick since some ball joint pullers can rip that boot. instead take a hammer and hit a control arm and it should knock it free and will slide out. saw it done right before my eyes so i know it works.
you dont need a ball joint puller, i learned a new trick since some ball joint pullers can rip that boot. instead take a hammer and hit a control arm and it should knock it free and will slide out. saw it done right before my eyes so i know it works.
I just replaced the cv boot on my car when that happend. Too me you don't need new axles because when you replace the boot you should clean the axle which will get rid of the dirt. Worked fine for me.
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From: I moved far away from cornz fieldz, IL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kyles ej1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you dont need a ball joint puller, i learned a new trick since some ball joint pullers can rip that boot. instead take a hammer and hit a control arm and it should knock it free and will slide out. saw it done right before my eyes so i know it works. </TD></TR></TABLE> Ive heard this as well, but im just pointing out what if any tools he would need. If I have to do this job ever, im using your way though lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nomorehatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just replaced the cv boot on my car when that happend. Too me you don't need new axles because when you replace the boot you should clean the axle which will get rid of the dirt. Worked fine for me.
</TD></TR></TABLE> How long ago, if you just did it, we wont know the real results for awhile.
you dont need a ball joint puller, i learned a new trick since some ball joint pullers can rip that boot. instead take a hammer and hit a control arm and it should knock it free and will slide out. saw it done right before my eyes so i know it works. </TD></TR></TABLE> Ive heard this as well, but im just pointing out what if any tools he would need. If I have to do this job ever, im using your way though lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nomorehatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just replaced the cv boot on my car when that happend. Too me you don't need new axles because when you replace the boot you should clean the axle which will get rid of the dirt. Worked fine for me.
</TD></TR></TABLE> How long ago, if you just did it, we wont know the real results for awhile.
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From: WORKING for MY stuff in, CA, United States
haha alright guys...im going to try and go with the replacing the whole axle...depends on pricing.
thanks again for all the help
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92-LS-Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for tools you need a few sockets, a cotter pin, pickle fork. after that you need to pick up a beer and go for a test drive </TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, only 17...but maybe my dad will..
thanks again for all the help
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92-LS-Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for tools you need a few sockets, a cotter pin, pickle fork. after that you need to pick up a beer and go for a test drive </TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, only 17...but maybe my dad will..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alacard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha alright guys...im going to try and go with the replacing the whole axle...depends on pricing.
thanks again for all the help
haha, only 17...but maybe my dad will..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's about $60 or so with the core.
thanks again for all the help
haha, only 17...but maybe my dad will..
</TD></TR></TABLE>It's about $60 or so with the core.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kyles ej1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you dont need a ball joint puller, i learned a new trick since some ball joint pullers can rip that boot. instead take a hammer and hit a control arm and it should knock it free and will slide out. saw it done right before my eyes so i know it works.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have done this several times.
This is a simple and effective method to use if you're not worried about making too much noise.
you dont need a ball joint puller, i learned a new trick since some ball joint pullers can rip that boot. instead take a hammer and hit a control arm and it should knock it free and will slide out. saw it done right before my eyes so i know it works.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I have done this several times.
This is a simple and effective method to use if you're not worried about making too much noise.
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From: WORKING for MY stuff in, CA, United States
k, so i am currently in the process of doing this. and me nor my dad can get that ball joint removed..
any ideas??
we banged on the control arm with a hammer in every way possible.
we have a ball joint press...but its too big to even work.
please help soon. thanks
any ideas??
we banged on the control arm with a hammer in every way possible.
we have a ball joint press...but its too big to even work.
please help soon. thanks
put the car on jack stands then put the jack under the lower ball joint and jack it up. Then take a 1/2 in ratchet and stick it right next to the lower ball joint and the lower arm. make sure its a snug fit. then lower the jack and push down on the brake disc untill it pops off.
this is how i do mines and it takes no more then 2-3 min.
this is how i do mines and it takes no more then 2-3 min.


