well guys ive decided in the next few months im gonna start my new project which will be building a mean turbo single cam.

i have been doing some research and theres really not a lot of stuff on people building single cams... my power goal is gonna be around 350-400hp on moderate boost around 17-19PSI and will daily drive on like 8-10 PSI

my plan is to buy an f22b2 longblock hot tanked bored .20 over for the raceeng pistons and honed... and have the crank balanced and micropolished, called raceengineering got a really good quote on their forged pistons w/ crower rods, w/ rings also. still trying to decided on what bearings i should go w/. and will replace the headstuds w/ ARP studs.

will have an f22a6 head and lower intake manifold w/ h23 upper intake manifold and throttle body. based on what i have been reading the f22a6 head is a better flowing head..i will probably do a port and polish and maybe a 3 angle valve job i haven't decided. that way i can also use a DSM exhuast manifold redrilled (a nice equal length stainless one) one that has a T3 flange.

I'm thinking either the Garrett GT2871R or the GT3071R i want something that has kinda quick spool (i.e dual ball bearing) and performs well on low boost pretty decently too for daily driving.

also i have been looking on f22parts.com and he has a set of upgraded single valvesprings...since the f22 isnt a very high revving motor i dont think i need to get the dual valvesprings since there will be a lot of modification that must be done to the head for them to fit right...im gonna go w/ either one of his cams or a web regrind. not sure what grind to get yet since they can do whatever i'd like but will be something pretty agressive. i will probably also replace the valves w/ new ones w/ the titanium single valvespring retainers. and if i do go w/ the 3 angle valvejob i will need 1mm oversized valves if im correct.

also should i go w/ an upgraded oil pump like the one he on f22parts.com or go w/ just new OEM oil pump...im also gonna replace the water pump w/ a new OEM one as well and of course replace all the gaskets...also w/ an OEM coppersprayed headgasket.

i hope some of that makes sense im just trying to get an idea from some people who have built their motors of what to buy and what i really dont need.

i don't know whether i wanna tackle putting everything together myself of have a local shop build it for me, i have the tools, resources and pretty damn good knowledge of cars to build it myself..i have done my fair share of motor swaps and work on cars to know what im doing..and im not afraid to try something new. nothing i can't tackle w/ a helms manual and help from friends who have built their motors.


keep in mind this is just about building the motor...i know all the other stuff i need for tuning, fuel etc., im not some stupid noob i have been driving a boosted accord for the past 10k miles and pieced the kit together myself and helped tune the car. i just need tech info on building the motor...

 

damn, i cant wait for u to get started, im def. gona be checkin in on this one all the time. o, and a little bit of advise on the regrind, dont get one from f22parts.com, they are just some weak *** gude wanabe cam, call deltacams.com, and they will work with you to get a regrind for your specific set up. but i know a few ppl running a 272* delta regrind on a turbo set up, its very good, it lets you rev to about 7k. i think its like 115 shipped.

but damn man, sounds nice, and like i said, i cant wait till u start building. when do u think u'll get started?

peace

-jose

 

i would say to get a machine shop to build the rotating mass of the bottom end, and you assemble the rest of the motor. by that i mean, you put on the oil pump, water pump, etc. its a great learning experience and since you say you have a lot of previous experience and a helms, thats pretty much all you need. it definately gives you peace of mind to know you didnt skimp on **** either, and if something goes wrong, you dont have to go through the hassle of talking to the shop.

i would suggest getting a modified oil pump and a new water pump and all new gaskets like you said. also, i would just go with factory honda main and rod bearings. honda makes some badass stuff and nothing works better than factory. this is what i did with my built H22A and it runs like a dream so far *knock on wood*. as for a cam, i would stay away from regrinds. if you can find a good turbo cam that is cut from a blank, go for it. you prolly dont need the 3-angle valve job and oversized valves. valve jobs are usually for n/a cars who are looking for every last bit of hp to squeeze out; turbos make enough power and torque as-is. as for the turbocharger itself, maybe you can consult someone from the company you are looking at to supply you with the best sized turbo for your needs.

 

well probably by next spring i have some bills to pay right now and some money to save up..im pretty much gonna buy everything at once and assemble it all at one time.

 

if you knwo whats your HP with your boosted f22b2 at 8-10 psi? just wondering (been thinking of boosting mine).. anyways reading all that made me drool and really wanna do it to my f22 i would love to get 350-400 hp out of my 97 accord! lol anyways good luck. Hope to find that u have a thread with pics on your buliding! would love to see it and learn.

 

im making 185whp and 240wtq on a T25 T 8PSI. as soon as we put a bigger turbo on my buddies galant VR4 in the next month or two i will be putting his EVO3 big 16G on my car to see how much more power i will make on 8psi.

so the f22parts.com cam isn't that good? has anyone had any experience w/ them or they just afraid to try something new? i will probably go w/ something like a 272 grind something pretty agressive. everyone complains about idle but thats what a cams all about..the top end and the crazy loping at idle...we put a 272intake and 276 exhaust cam on the galantVR4 and it lopes really hard.

mikey3000...no one makes a cam for the f22 they are all regrinds so i really dont have a choice. is your h22 built for all motor or boost? i was thinking about it and i probably wont go w/ the valve job and just do the port and polish.

do you guys suggest i replace my valves or just use the stock ones?

i think im probably gonna stick w/ the GT2871R, the shop i usually go to for tuning made a little over 450HP out of their sr20 240 on the 2871R on high boost w/ a stock bottom end. im only looking to make close to 400hp since i will still be on stock sleeves.

how much boost do you guys think the sleeves can handle? i have never really found anyone who has cracked the sleeves yet.

 

my motor is built for boost. stock sleeves should be able to handle 10 psi.

 

well i know for a fact the f22 sleeves will handle more than 10psi..a few people have proved that here on 14-15psi. the f22 sleeves are a lot strong than those in the h22..the h22 has FRM sleeves w vs the f22 which has ductile iron..the iron holds a lot more boost.

has anyone on here cracked the sleeves in the f22? if so at what boost pressure? what turbo? and what other factors?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brads94accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't know whether i wanna tackle putting everything together myself of have a local shop build it for me, i have the tools, resources and pretty damn good knowledge of cars to build it myself..i have done my fair share of motor swaps and work on cars to know what im doing..and im not afraid to try something new. nothing i can't tackle w/ a helms manual and help from friends who have built their motors.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

having a can-do attitude like that I say build the entire bottom end yourself!! that's what I did with my F23 motor. I learned a rediculous amount by doing it, and if something goes wrong there is only one person I can blame.

I took lots of pics and have a whole 20+ page build up thread on another forum (cough cough honduh.com cough).

unfortunately it's still not running right yet but thankfully the motor is not the problem.

 

nice, the 272 regrinds are great for boost, some ppl are afraid of them b/c it has a little bit too much overlap for boost applications, but i know this one dude, he has his f22 boosted with the delta 272 regrind, and he's been running it for about 2 years now and i havent heard anything bad from it yet.

but yea, i would get the head rebuilt, or upgraded, that way the boost will flow a lot better through the head.

 

well im definately going to need stronger valvesprings and i will do the titanium retainers, i will need them w/ the cam. anything else in the head i should upgrade?

 

if you talk to delta they will do a 272 intake 260 exhuast grind, +2degrees lobe center, i believe .425 lift on the intake and .400 on the exhaust. kills some of that overlap and still picks right up under the curve.
nothing bad should happen running a little more overlap with the full 272, but i feel i went the right direction with my grind.

 

If you want it to rev higher, get a 88mm f20 crank.

 

well, u can get ur stock crank rebalanced, alot, so that it can atleast rev to 7.5k, then get it micro-polished and knife edged, to make it more extreme.

 

well i was definately gonna have the crank balanced and micropolished...there is a machine shop down the road that will hot tank, bore my block .20 over and hone it for $80. and i can have them assemble my bottom end, and balance and polish the crank for around 200-300. they just put my buddies built D16 together, and threw on his head for free since they were doing everything else. its a bunch of rednecks who build 350's and stuff but they have built quite a few honda motors

 

damn, jump on that deal, but dont let them put it togther for u, u should do that urself, well, only if ur experienced. but yea, that sounds pretty sweet man. def. get that crank balanced and polished, you'll be able to rev so much higher afterwards, like a civic.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brads94accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i was definately gonna have the crank balanced and micropolished...there is a machine shop down the road that will hot tank, bore my block .20 over and hone it for $80. and i can have them assemble my bottom end, and balance and polish the crank for around 200-300. they just put my buddies built D16 together, and threw on his head for free since they were doing everything else. its a bunch of rednecks who build 350's and stuff but they have built quite a few honda motors</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm serious about the f20 crank man, they're cheap too. you can use ether the f20a or f20b crank or which ever you come across. its 88mm goodness that allows for 8k =D

 

f20 crank seems interesting....ive always heard of people using h22 cranks with the 50mm(f22)(55mm for f23) mains, h22 rods and custom pistons with the wristpin dropped....but be weary when destroking 4cyls, low end power = kaput.

 

but what rods would i use with that crank?

 

h22 or h23 rods, im currently run h23 rods in my f22 block with f22 crank. but if i went h22 crank id go h22 rods most likely. just make sure you get the right main size.

edit, its clear to me i may have jumped the gun, whom was that reply directed at brad? my bad

 

the h22 sleeves are by far not weak, frm is a strong material, hence why you can run a 87mm bore in the same space as compared to an f22s 85mm bore. only thing weak about the frm sleeve is finding a piston compatible with it

 

Just thought I'd trow this out there, if you're hoping to make huge HP numbers, don't skimp on your manifold.

 

yes, he said that he was gona get an f22a6 plenum with a bottom half h23 manifold.

but anyways, h22 sleeves are crap, that why you have to sleeve it and buy forged internals if youre serious about turboing the h22.
yeah, the h22 is bored out to 87mm, and the f22 to 85mm, but the f22 is made from ductile iron, which is way better for boost than the h22's frm sleeves.

anyways, u can use the h22 crank and the h22 rods, and if i remember correct that would give you a rod ratio of ~1.58, which way better than 1.49 of the f22, and if you use h23 rods w/ h22 crank the r/s would be ~1.56, still significantly better than the f22. with this, you will lose some low end power, but you will be able to rev very high, and with this yo u can get a turbo that starts spolling around 4k, then boost fully at around 7k. now, that would be a killer f22 man.

 

HAVING BOOST AT 4K? you definately want to to start spooling before that cause you won't have any go until you get to 4K.

 

hey dave the H23 rods are the same as the f22 right? cause i know w/ the H22 rods you have to get custom wristpins. does anyone have any links to threads w/ people who have used the f20 crank?

well i wont be skimping on the intake manifold..it will be an f22a6 lower intake mani..w/ h23a upper intake manifold and throttle body. w/ the IAB disabled.

I'm gonna start out w/ a cheap OBX stainless manifold DSM one redrilled and have a shop fab me and adapter plate to adapt from DSM T25 flange to a nissan T25 flange which is what the GT2871R comes w/. total of all that should cost me more than 200-300. if the obx manifold cracks ohh well..i will just reweld it back again. everyone gives them a bad rap but they are definately better than ssautochrome..and better than they used to be and w/ a little bracing they are pretty decent for the money.

but anyways this thread is about building a motor..I'm already set on everything else i need to upgrade from my current turbo setup