So I need to replace my tie rod ends as there is quite a bit of play and one of the boots is torn. I was wondering how long with it take me and is it very hard considering I've never done anything musch in this area, just some basic crap like rotor and pad replacement? I know about the trick with tape and making sure the nut that puts force on the tie rod end goes down the same for alignment and all that, but any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

do you mean the boot for the outter tie rod ball joint ? or did you mean the boot that covers the inner tie rod ? If the later is torn you should also replace the inner tie rod.

I am in the process of rebulting my entire suspension, and replacing all the bushings.

 

The boot the covers the outer tie rod.

 

not hard at all, just take out the pin holding the end in place, take of the nut, loosen the nut on the tie rod, and take it off.

a few tricks:
1. loosen the tie rod nut just a little and back it up to where it was, so that its in the same place.
2. when you start unscrewing the tie rod end, count how many revolutions you make to take it off
3. then when you put the new one on, go the same amount of revolutions and you should be right up to the nut, then tighten it down and your good to go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90ZCREX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not hard at all, just take out the pin holding the end in place, take of the nut, loosen the nut on the tie rod, and take it off.

a few tricks:
1. loosen the tie rod nut just a little and back it up to where it was, so that its in the same place.
2. when you start unscrewing the tie rod end, count how many revolutions you make to take it off
3. then when you put the new one on, go the same amount of revolutions and you should be right up to the nut, then tighten it down and your good to go.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the advice

I think I'm gonna tackle it tomorrow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90ZCREX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not hard at all, just take out the pin holding the end in place, take of the nut, loosen the nut on the tie rod, and take it off.

a few tricks:
1. loosen the tie rod nut just a little and back it up to where it was, so that its in the same place.
2. when you start unscrewing the tie rod end, count how many revolutions you make to take it off
3. then when you put the new one on, go the same amount of revolutions and you should be right up to the nut, then tighten it down and your good to go.

</TD></TR></TABLE>



and to add to this. A pickle fork will be handy in seperating the ball joint and use some PB blaster on the threads to help loosen the nut up.

 

sort of related. I noticed that my boot is torn also. Would this cause the front of my car to have almost a hollow sound when hitting bumps at slow speeds. It drives me nuts and it seems to be mainly on the right side(same as torn boot)?

 

Hollow? Dunno.....Is it bouncy? Maybe a blown shock.

 

no there pretty new omnipower streets. it did this when i had stock suspension.
Not bouncy at all, but when I hit say dirt or small bumps at low speeds, it sounds like something is loose almost. like a hollow shock or something.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spyz34 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sort of related. I noticed that my boot is torn also. Would this cause the front of my car to have almost a hollow sound when hitting bumps at slow speeds. It drives me nuts and it seems to be mainly on the right side(same as torn boot)?</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is the steering rack end bushing. adjust the gear box after youve done that.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1117870

as for the original poster taking off the tie rods, heres some more tips.

do one side at a time. this way you can have somewhat of a reference to get your alignment back to where it was before. (i tried counting threads, it doesnt work) so replace only the passenger side, then realign the car by driving around the block and figuring out how to get the car to go straight (or how it was before). then you replace the driver side and align the car. but get an alignment done professionally anyway. its a good time to do that.

also, a pickle fork is fine to separate the tie rods. however, they typically tear the boot up in the process. but since youre replacing the tie rod anyway, you dont care. although, even if im going to replace the tie rod, and if the boot is still good, i like to save the boot if i can and keep it to reuse later.

the easiest way to release the balljoint is to get a 3lbs hammer and knock the extra meat around the knuckle near the balljoint, and it will vibrate off. keep the nut unscrewed a few turns, but still on the balljoint threads, to protect the threads in case of an errant blow. this is kinda hard to believe and do if youve never seen it done before, but i guarantee its the easiest way about it, and least damaging.

also, if you find that the castle nut doesnt want to go back on and it just spins the balljoint around, then i suggest you buy a 10x1.25 tap and die and chase the threads on your old nut. or, just buy a new nut to accompany your new tie rod/balljoint.

oh, and dont forget to put the cotter pin back in. a set of new cotter pins is worth buying btw. youll thank yourself later the next time you take it out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

also, if you find that the castle nut doesnt want to go back on and it just spins the balljoint around, then i suggest you buy a 10x1.25 tap and die and chase the threads on your old nut. or, just buy a new nut to accompany your new tie rod/balljoint.

oh, and dont forget to put the cotter pin back in. a set of new cotter pins is worth buying btw. youll thank yourself later the next time you take it out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

FWIW, my new tie rod ends came with new castle nuts and cotter pins.

 

http://www.gassavers.org/node/115

This is just a short thing of my experience I did. It worked extremely well. Prolly took 45 minutes including buying the part. 43 bucks with tax. Thanks for your help all.