**** **** ****, I needed to have my car running this weekend and now I'm fucked. I have a set of z6 studs, which apparently DON'T fit my y8 engine. I just tried.

Anyone have a set lying around that they want to sell me?! There aren't any on ebay right now and the search function on H-T has been fucked for like a week now so I can't search the classifieds.

I always thought the stud sets would be the same for all 92-00 civics, but if you try to put the z6 studs in to a y block, they will stick out too high and there won't be enough threads coming through the head for the nut to screw onto.

 

If it is sticking up high in the head, if you have clearance just get more of the washers possibly?

 

i think that's what i had my engine builder do on my built sohc. i used a y8 head on a z6 bottom end. all u do is use washers man. you'll be fine.

 

Well I thought about that, but it seemed... I don't know. I just didn't want to compromise anything.

So you guys think I should just do that? What washers should I use? I can get some pretty hardcore washers at True Value, but they aren't going to be as good as the ARP washers.

Keep in mind also, this is for a high hp high boost engine, if that matters.


**EDIT**
Just searched the ARP website and couldn't find individual washers. I think I'll just use the hardened stuff from True Value. Any problem with that?

 

i bought z6 studs by accident too , i just used more washers and it worked perfectly.

 

What kind of washers you guys using?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it is sticking up high in the head, if you have clearance just get more of the washers possibly?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i didi this to Hella JDM's motor over a year ago adn it worked fine no problems......

 

my buddy just bought some washers from ARP to use b16 studs on his ZC. works fine, just try to call ARP

 

Your local Lowe's or Home Depot will definitely NOT have them...since the ones from ARP are heat treated washers. There is this one shop here in town that will have them...but the guy who owns/runs it is a freakin a55hole to deal with.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NVturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your local Lowe's or Home Depot will definitely NOT have them... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm talking about True Value - it's not like Lowes or Home Depot. They specialize in hard to find metric hardware. But if I remember correctly, they sell the washers I need for a buck a piece. That's steep.

 

Okay, forget everything guys. Thanks for the help though


I just went out and looked at the engine and figured out that I'd need an additional 4 washers per stud. That's 40 extra washers. And I found them on the ARP website. They sell for $11.38 per box of ten.

So whether I go to True Value or use ARP, it will still cost about $40-45. I can just find a set of used y8 studs for $50.

Now, who wants to buy these and who wants to sell me some y studs???

 

You live in California.

I'd bet you could find a set by this afternoon if you posted up for them.

 

For $40 you could probably find a machine shop that'd make thick 1-piece washers that'd work, and probably heat-treat them too. The main reason they talk-up thier heat-treated stuff is that bolt-stretch is the #1 cause of head lift. The head material isn't heat-treated, so why should a steel washer it sits on need to be treated too? Think about it, then buy some grade 5 or 8's they sell at Ace hardware and be done with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The head material isn't heat-treated, so why should a steel washer it sits on need to be treated too? </TD></TR></TABLE>


That's a good point...

 

also tunertoys.com sells the arp studs pretty cheap like $87 and if your a hmt member you can get a 5% discount.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The head material isn't heat-treated, so why should a steel washer it sits on need to be treated too? Think about it, then buy some grade 5 or 8's they sell at Ace hardware and be done with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>Heat treated material WILL OUTLAST non-treated ones.

 

i have a y8 head on a z6 block and a couple of them were too long so i got some washers from true value (westlakes). they are the EXACT same as the arp washers. i love true value, couldnt survive without them.

 

Yeah True Value is the ****, but they're just as pricey as ARP.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah True Value is the ****, but they're just as pricey as ARP.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea but you bag your own hardware and write the prices on there. do you really think i put the real overpriced price on their...lol

 

Awww... tsk tsk. I never steal from True Value because I want them to stay in business here in my city. If they leave, I'll have no source of metric hardware . Lowes and Home Depot don't really have metric stuf. (which is why I rob the **** out of them ).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awww... tsk tsk. I never steal from True Value because I want them to stay in business here in my city. If they leave, I'll have no source of metric hardware . Lowes and Home Depot don't really have metric stuf. (which is why I rob the **** out of them ).</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just give em a little markdown..

 

for 40 bux you can have arp send you the studs you need.

my old man used to say
do it right, or dont do it at all.

Y8 head bolts/studs are 10x120.5, A6/B7/Z6 head bolts/studs are all 10x140
you should ony need 2 of the shorter studs for the end near the tranny. thats all i needed for mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zer0DazE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for 40 bux you can have arp send you the studs you need.

my old man used to say
do it right, or dont do it at all.

Y8 head bolts/studs are 10x120.5, A6/B7/Z6 head bolts/studs are all 10x140
you should ony need 2 of the shorter studs for the end near the tranny. thats all i needed for mine.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I don't know what you mean. None of the studs will work. The are all too long.

I'm just buying new studs. I've already got someone buying the z6 studs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know what you mean. None of the studs will work. The are all too long.

I'm just buying new studs. I've already got someone buying the z6 studs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you dont have them in all the way then. suck all the oil out and chase the threads to clean them.

remember to just hand tighten them in there or you will rip the threads out when you torque the nut down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you dont have them in all the way then. suck all the oil out and chase the threads to clean them.

remember to just hand tighten them in there or you will rip the threads out when you torque the nut down.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did tap the block. And coated the studs with moly lube - they threaded into the block like butter. But they were all too long...