Well my civic broke down last summer so I began a Y8 build. It was freezing cold and lacked cash during winter so I waited to spring to begin build/installation. I got most of removal done, but due to college and moving had no time to work on it. So a mech friend who I worked with for 3 years agreed to do it for $200.

Well all that he likes is the put the axles back in and I have to get a new dipstick and dipstick tube.

Ok so here is the setup:
97 D16Y8 bored .020 over
JE SRP 10.5:1 c./r pistons
JE SRP rings
Eagle H beam rods
97 Y8 head port and polished
adjustable cam gear
DC 4-2-1 header
Akimoto short ram intake
RMP switch to activate v-tec
Chipped PM6 with sohc fuel maps fro PMGFI
"new" si tranny
New Xtd stage 2 clutch kit

Ok so here is my question. How do guys recommend breaking it in. I have heard so many different things about when to change the oil, what kind of oil, how fast to drive, how high to rev, etc, etc. Just womdering what some of you guys who have actually rebuilt a motor have to say. Thanks, Doug

 

Break it in like you're going to drive it. There have been several threads like this, a search through the archives will probably find a couple.

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://mototuneusa.com/circular_logic.htm

 

I know thats what is so confusing. Some say to take it easy and change the oil every 500 miles for the first 3000. Others say drive it hard so everything will seal up tightly. Anyone actually tried the "drive it hard" method and have had no problems with it?

Also the new clutch kit requires a 500 mile break in period. Obviously the means no dumping the clutch or high rpm launches, but does that mean take the rpms/speed easy also?

 

Yeah, bit the **** out of it, just take it easy on the clutch. You don't necisarilly need to rev the crap out of it, but put some load on the motor...for instance go WOT from a high gear at a low speed.

 

I just start it up and let it idle until it's warm while checking for any leaks or funny noises...

Then, once it's warm I go out and build the RPMs up starting out at 2000, then 2500 and so on. At each RPM I accelerate up to it, then let off the gas while leaving it still in gear, let the engine do the braking... this helps seal the rings.

I do that all the way up to the redline, going higher and higher each time and letting the engine slow me down.

I repeat this a few times, starting back at 2000 up to the redline just for good measure. After a few cycles of this the rings should be seated and it should be good to rip on. Don't forget to use regular cheap oil for break-in and then change it out after 100 miles or so, make sure to check the oil and filter for particles that shouldn't be there.

Good luck.

 

How many miles should I use the cheao dino oil before switching to syn?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NACvicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone actually tried the "drive it hard" method and have had no problems with it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Me did! I've seen a few others around that have as well.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NACvicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also the new clutch kit requires a 500 mile break in period. Obviously the means no dumping the clutch or high rpm launches, but does that mean take the rpms/speed easy also?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, remember once the clutch is engaged, there is no slip. Don't drag the motor down on the shifts, let the revs drop and don't shift 'angry'. 1000rpm is the same as 10000rpm to an engaged clutch, the flywheel and pressure plate are rotating at the same rpm, so there's no slip.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NACvicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How many miles should I use the cheao dino oil before switching to syn?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would let it go at least 5000 to 7000 miles, others may differ. To be honest, it almost doesn't matter. Think of how long Honda motors last, with as little wear as they have. Chances are you won't keep this motor long enough for it to wear out, even driving it hard. It can't hurt though, so if you can afford it, go for it.

 

Thanks for all the help guys. I will take your advise and post the results later. Thanks again