What engine oil do you run in your race car?
i run redline 40weight race oil, but im going to switch to mobile1 50weight.
i run a D16z6 and with the redline the oil pressure is ok for the first few laps, but as the oil get hotter, the oil pressure drops.
A fellow racer runs mobile1 50 weight in the same motor and his oil pressure is better but he experances the same problem to a less extent.
are solution? im gona pick up an earls 9x13 2 inch think oil cooler. I have a small one now and it just doesn't do the job.
i run a D16z6 and with the redline the oil pressure is ok for the first few laps, but as the oil get hotter, the oil pressure drops.
A fellow racer runs mobile1 50 weight in the same motor and his oil pressure is better but he experances the same problem to a less extent.
are solution? im gona pick up an earls 9x13 2 inch think oil cooler. I have a small one now and it just doesn't do the job.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by What does HBZ mean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Straight 50w? or a multigrade 20-50w?</TD></TR></TABLE>
15-50
15-50
'german' castrol 0W30 in my ITR... now using castrol gtx 10w40 in my LS engine. Once I start racing this thing I'll probably switch to Motul 300v.
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5w30 Mobil 1 in the miata. right around 58psi oil pressure, pretty solid. i've been thinking of maybe switching to a thinner race oil (amsoil or redline) for that extra power advantage
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BANNED_ID »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what temps? Just drive....</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is all fine and dandy....but my oil temp gauge was pegged at 300 for 8 or so laps towards the end of my last race. I am guessing the temp was around 320 degrees, so I want to make sure I have an oil in the case that will withstand that type of temps.
That is all fine and dandy....but my oil temp gauge was pegged at 300 for 8 or so laps towards the end of my last race. I am guessing the temp was around 320 degrees, so I want to make sure I have an oil in the case that will withstand that type of temps.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BANNED_ID »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Amsoil High performance 10W40, what temps? Just drive....</TD></TR></TABLE>
same
same
i'm wondering what kind of motors the people who are using such heavy weights have. are these largely 100k+ unmodified/rebuilt engines, or are you running 40/50wt or whatever in brand new built motors?
and if it's in a race car, or a street car that they take to the track every once in a while.
and if it's in a race car, or a street car that they take to the track every once in a while.
10-30 Valvoline Synpower
There's really nothing I can do to get temps down if they're high in SM, so yeah, I don't worry about them. If you want temperature protection, Amsoil's SA2000 oils are pretty indestructible, but they're pricy.
There's really nothing I can do to get temps down if they're high in SM, so yeah, I don't worry about them. If you want temperature protection, Amsoil's SA2000 oils are pretty indestructible, but they're pricy.
Castrol RS 10-60 in my Honda ITR ,Evo 6 and 8 rally car.Best oil i have ever try and have been using them for 7 years.Tried other brands like Mobil1 racing but none better yet.Oil temp in my EG ITR is 120 degree celcius with oil cooler, it depends on your shift point and engine brake too. Interested in trying Motul v300 too for my NA car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tnord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm wondering what kind of motors the people who are using such heavy weights have. are these largely 100k+ unmodified/rebuilt engines, or are you running 40/50wt or whatever in brand new built motors?
and if it's in a race car, or a street car that they take to the track every once in a while.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I use 10-60 in all of my motors although I build them with slightly looser main and rod clearances (.0019) and I chamfer the oiling holes on the crank then shim the oil pump relief valve to get some of the pressure back from the looser clearances. This is on a turbocharged B18C1 that sees regular rally action and is going to be running the Targa Newfoundland in a week and a half.
and if it's in a race car, or a street car that they take to the track every once in a while.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I use 10-60 in all of my motors although I build them with slightly looser main and rod clearances (.0019) and I chamfer the oiling holes on the crank then shim the oil pump relief valve to get some of the pressure back from the looser clearances. This is on a turbocharged B18C1 that sees regular rally action and is going to be running the Targa Newfoundland in a week and a half.
We run redline 40 wt race oil in our IT spec b18a motors with loose main and rod bearings, never had a lubrication related failure in 3 years of racing. This is the oil Comptech recommends for all of there race engines.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tnord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm wondering what kind of motors the people who are using such heavy weights have. are these largely 100k+ unmodified/rebuilt engines, or are you running 40/50wt or whatever in brand new built motors?
and if it's in a race car, or a street car that they take to the track every once in a while.</TD></TR></TABLE>
my motor is a built IT motor, loose clearnace, and such, recommened by engine builder.
and if it's in a race car, or a street car that they take to the track every once in a while.</TD></TR></TABLE>
my motor is a built IT motor, loose clearnace, and such, recommened by engine builder.
So far this year i tried the following
Motul 8100 10-40. After about 30-40 minutes of 'mild' track time, wouldnt hold pressure much above 60psi, whereas when new was at 70-75psi. Negligibeable oil consumption. Very little visual degradation, stayed clear, no burning smell etc.
Castrol GTX 20-50. Never ran it at the track but oil pressure seemed to stay more consistent as it degraded. It seemes to turn dark quite quickly and got significantly higher oil consumption. Like almost 1/2 qt after 6-10 autox runs.
Castrol GTX 10-40. Pretty much the same result as the 20-50 but with better oil consumption. Finally got my oil temp gauge in with this one. Did one track session and pulled in after 15 minutes after water temp (on the oem gauge) got to 3/4 high (not related to oil). The oil temp peaked at 275. Almost Zero oil consumption though. The oil turned foggy darker color and was pretty much toast.
This is on a ZC race motor. Carb'd, built to go to 9500 but limited to 8000 for now. 7qt magnesium, finned Mugen oil pan. I may try to go to 5-30 GTX next. I have a large oil cooler sitting in my garage along with a pimpy old-school Mugen sandwich plate. Will surely put that in next. Was hesitating on adding like 15lbs to the front of the car just for occasional track days (it's an SM car), but it seems I'll have no choice now, especially once we uncork the thing to full RPM. That and most probably a switch to Motul 300v. Local Touring car driver said he saw a temp drop of 20-30deg after switching to 300v (from Mobil1 synth i think). At 7qt per oil change it'll cost a mint, but still cheaper than a motor rebuild, eh? We'll see...
Motul 8100 10-40. After about 30-40 minutes of 'mild' track time, wouldnt hold pressure much above 60psi, whereas when new was at 70-75psi. Negligibeable oil consumption. Very little visual degradation, stayed clear, no burning smell etc.
Castrol GTX 20-50. Never ran it at the track but oil pressure seemed to stay more consistent as it degraded. It seemes to turn dark quite quickly and got significantly higher oil consumption. Like almost 1/2 qt after 6-10 autox runs.
Castrol GTX 10-40. Pretty much the same result as the 20-50 but with better oil consumption. Finally got my oil temp gauge in with this one. Did one track session and pulled in after 15 minutes after water temp (on the oem gauge) got to 3/4 high (not related to oil). The oil temp peaked at 275. Almost Zero oil consumption though. The oil turned foggy darker color and was pretty much toast.
This is on a ZC race motor. Carb'd, built to go to 9500 but limited to 8000 for now. 7qt magnesium, finned Mugen oil pan. I may try to go to 5-30 GTX next. I have a large oil cooler sitting in my garage along with a pimpy old-school Mugen sandwich plate. Will surely put that in next. Was hesitating on adding like 15lbs to the front of the car just for occasional track days (it's an SM car), but it seems I'll have no choice now, especially once we uncork the thing to full RPM. That and most probably a switch to Motul 300v. Local Touring car driver said he saw a temp drop of 20-30deg after switching to 300v (from Mobil1 synth i think). At 7qt per oil change it'll cost a mint, but still cheaper than a motor rebuild, eh? We'll see...
ok this is making sense to me. the old motors with lots of mileage, worn bearings, and big clearances are running thicker oil. motors built intentionally with big clearances are running thicker oil. us guys with SS rules and tighter tolerances run stuff as thin as we can get away with. got it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DMF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What type of oil pressure are you guys seeing in D16 engines?</TD></TR></TABLE>
d16z6? or d16a6?
HUGE DIFFERANCE.
In an d16z6
I normally see 60-70psi for 5 or so laps then the oil gets too hot and the pressure drops.
in an d16a6
70-80psi for 20+minute sessions, no drop at all.
d16z6? or d16a6?
HUGE DIFFERANCE.
In an d16z6
I normally see 60-70psi for 5 or so laps then the oil gets too hot and the pressure drops.
in an d16a6
70-80psi for 20+minute sessions, no drop at all.



