Hondata gasket install
Here's a "how to" on the install of a Hondata intake manifold gasket, "race" setup. The Hondata gasket helps FI/NA setups increase power output by blocking the coolant passage from heating the intake manifold. Decreasing intake manifold heatsoak to the intake charge increases power by as much as 4%, according to Hondata.
The red circle indicates where the gasket blocks the flow of coolant into the head. The JRSC manifold shown throughout this "how to", but the coolant setup is the same on a stock Si.
This is the coolant hose, indicated by green arrows, that is going to be eliminated on the race setup.
To remove the hose carefully slit it with a hobby knife. Make sure you don't scar the brass coolant port.
With the hose removed, bypass the coolant flow as shown below. The bottom portion of the coolant hose is tee'd onto the heater control hose. The 5/8" tee is specifically made for automotive coolant use (it's made by HELP!). The top coolant port is no longer functional since the gasket will block the coolant path.
The acute angle of the hose caused a "kink" in the coolant path, so I opted to install a 90 elbow to maximize coolant flow.
To further decrease heatsoak, you should bypass the throttle body (TB) and intake air control (IAC) coolant passages as well. The 5/16" coolant hose will now flow from this location:
then directly to the main return coolant pipe.
To further optimize the effectiveness of this mod, I chose to install the Hondata washers. The only caveat is to install longer head studs. To remove the existing studs place two nuts as shown below:
then use a wrench on the inner nut to remove the stud:
The replacement studs I used were about 1/4" longer than OE and were made of stainless steel rated for automotive use. Thanks goes out to Sonny (svanhook) and Johnny (JT98civicEX) for explaning the procedure on how to remove the stock studs.
Reinstall the new stud and apply blue loctite.
Longer studs installed:
Studs and gasket installed.
Hondata washers installed.
The manifold is now significantly cooler to the touch compared to the stock setup when the motor is at normal operating temps. There is a noticeable difference in temperature between the head and intake manifold. When the weather warms up I'll compare the intake temperature difference with this new Hondata gasket race setup compared to the datalogs I recorded early Fall.
The red circle indicates where the gasket blocks the flow of coolant into the head. The JRSC manifold shown throughout this "how to", but the coolant setup is the same on a stock Si.
This is the coolant hose, indicated by green arrows, that is going to be eliminated on the race setup.
To remove the hose carefully slit it with a hobby knife. Make sure you don't scar the brass coolant port.
With the hose removed, bypass the coolant flow as shown below. The bottom portion of the coolant hose is tee'd onto the heater control hose. The 5/8" tee is specifically made for automotive coolant use (it's made by HELP!). The top coolant port is no longer functional since the gasket will block the coolant path.
The acute angle of the hose caused a "kink" in the coolant path, so I opted to install a 90 elbow to maximize coolant flow.
To further decrease heatsoak, you should bypass the throttle body (TB) and intake air control (IAC) coolant passages as well. The 5/16" coolant hose will now flow from this location:
then directly to the main return coolant pipe.
To further optimize the effectiveness of this mod, I chose to install the Hondata washers. The only caveat is to install longer head studs. To remove the existing studs place two nuts as shown below:
then use a wrench on the inner nut to remove the stud:
The replacement studs I used were about 1/4" longer than OE and were made of stainless steel rated for automotive use. Thanks goes out to Sonny (svanhook) and Johnny (JT98civicEX) for explaning the procedure on how to remove the stock studs.
Reinstall the new stud and apply blue loctite.
Longer studs installed:
Studs and gasket installed.
Hondata washers installed.
The manifold is now significantly cooler to the touch compared to the stock setup when the motor is at normal operating temps. There is a noticeable difference in temperature between the head and intake manifold. When the weather warms up I'll compare the intake temperature difference with this new Hondata gasket race setup compared to the datalogs I recorded early Fall.
Where did you find those studs from? I've been looking around and I'm looking to buy studs in various sizes. Is there someplace on the web? Thanks.
-Mike
-Mike
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Alright Zip....now I'm confused
I'm reading over the instructions from Hondata and it's telling me to drill a few holes in the thermostat, and to reroute the hoses in a different manner...do I have some really old instructions?
Austin
I'm reading over the instructions from Hondata and it's telling me to drill a few holes in the thermostat, and to reroute the hoses in a different manner...do I have some really old instructions?Austin
The stock studs are 25mm long. You can use these studs, which are 35mm long. They retail for less than a buck each, and you can order them from any Honda or Acura dealer.
92900-08035-1B
Bolt, stud (8X35)
92900-08035-1B
Bolt, stud (8X35)
Any drawbacks to not having coolant flow to the manifold? I figure there's a reason that Honda ran it there in the first place.
I recall it was perhaps to warm the manifold in cold temperatures...
I recall it was perhaps to warm the manifold in cold temperatures...
Any drawbacks to not having coolant flow to the manifold? I figure there's a reason that Honda ran it there in the first place.
The red circle indicates where the gasket blocks the flow of coolant into the head. The JRSC manifold shown throughout this "how to", but the coolant setup is the same on a stock Si.
I can understand keeping coolant out of the intake manifold, but not out of the head. Is cooler intake temps worth a hotter head?
[Modified by HXMan, 2:24 PM 2/21/2002]
i have always reroutted the coolant hose off of my TB. cause i don't like that funky angled metal piece in the engine bay...never had any problems with that...
Also, its not coolant flow TO the head, its coolant flow FROM the head.
Coolant gets to the head from the block and exits the head to the radiator and
to the thermostat housing and heater core.
Coolant gets to the head from the block and exits the head to the radiator and
to the thermostat housing and heater core.
Also, its not coolant flow TO the head, its coolant flow FROM the head.
Coolant gets to the head from the block and exits the head to the radiator and
to the thermostat housing and heater core.
Coolant gets to the head from the block and exits the head to the radiator and
to the thermostat housing and heater core.
Where did you find those studs from? I've been looking around and I'm looking to buy studs in various sizes. Is there someplace on the web? Thanks.
-Mike
-Mike
Austin: This an alternative setup compared to the instructions in the Hondata site.
DarksideDC4: sgT is correct, the mod essentially just keeps the flow blocked from the head but coolant still flows away from the head in the main radiator hose.
Here are cross posts, so some questions about this mod may already have been answered on other boards.
http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/Forum40/HTML/009753.html
http://forums.clubsi.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/010584.html
[Modified by zip, 5:01 PM 2/21/2002]
A little bit OT..
but here's a message that I got back from Robert at Hondata about the gasket install..and the necessity to drill the six holes in the thermostat to keep the car from overheating....
==========
Yeah this subject is brought up quite often. (referring to the the need to drill holes)
I would say cut the passage open, we only really recommend the race version
for non-street cars. The gasket will have a positive effect with or without
the passage open.
==========
RA who's unsure as to who to listen to, but will try without the drilling on the Mugen thermostat equipped car.... !
but here's a message that I got back from Robert at Hondata about the gasket install..and the necessity to drill the six holes in the thermostat to keep the car from overheating....
==========
Yeah this subject is brought up quite often. (referring to the the need to drill holes)
I would say cut the passage open, we only really recommend the race version
for non-street cars. The gasket will have a positive effect with or without
the passage open.
==========
RA who's unsure as to who to listen to, but will try without the drilling on the Mugen thermostat equipped car.... !




