**** EDIT: so you don't have to search this whole thread for the solution:

i found the problem. my single-side PWR radiator was not catching enough air. most of the air would go to my condensor side, i suppose, as there was less resistance...? well that and i had a big *** FMIC and a full-length condensor in my DC2. so... bottom line: i put in a stock GSR radiator. all fixed.
this was only MY problem. you may have others. read on to see:******

yes, ANOTHER overheating question.

why would my car only over heat while on the freeway? around town it's fine. while boosting it's fine. only on the freeway at 70mph or more.

other than checking timing, bleed valve, and flushing my coolant system, is there any SPECIFIC reason it would only overheat while keeping constant revs on the freeway??

btw: car is a '00 ITR with large PWR FMIC, full sized A/C condensor, and single sided PWR radiator.


Modified by kaj at 4:02 PM 8/9/2005


Modified by kaj at 6:21 PM 8/24/2005

 

between tuning
and higher loads in 5th gear pulls, very very hard on engine/heat issues

the more 5th gear pulls/hard boost creates lots and lots of heat, becuae of the greater LOAD on the motor

and plus if tuning is not perfect higher loads will be even worse

thats why alot of people blow there car up doin 4/5 th gear pulls

were as 1/2/3 gears are not nearly as hard becuase u have gearing still

hope this helps
dan

 

my car does the same not so much overheating temp just rise , temps go to 205-210 and hold nothing higher. only in 5th above 75mph after about 30 miles and thats no pulls or boost in 5th ever.

do you know exactly how high your temps are getting ? do you datalog or just watching the temp gauge?

i asked tony1 about this and he said as long as it doesn't get above 210 everything is ok . i have flushed my cooling system , changed my t-stat and thermo switch .as well as upgraded to a fluidyne .

it cant be the higher gears my car was tuned in 4th. and i know better than to boost in 5th. it does it when i dont boost . it could be just this texas summer it didnt start untill the temps got above 95. today it was mid to high 80's and i drove 50 miles with no problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nasteboyii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">between tuning
and higher loads in 5th gear pulls, very very hard on engine/heat issues

the more 5th gear pulls/hard boost creates lots and lots of heat, becuae of the greater LOAD on the motor

and plus if tuning is not perfect higher loads will be even worse

thats why alot of people blow there car up doin 4/5 th gear pulls

were as 1/2/3 gears are not nearly as hard becuase u have gearing still

hope this helps
dan
</TD></TR></TABLE>

what are you talking about? what does this have to do with me driving on the freeway??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kaj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what are you talking about? what does this have to do with me driving on the freeway??</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly what i was thinking. we are not talking about overheating in boost the cars run fine while in boost, its highway cruising that we are having the problem. in vacum when the ecu should be running like stock

i'm not trying to be a dick about the situation but nowhere in kaj's post did it say that he was having the problem in boost

 

first things first man,
swap in a new thermostat and then rad cap

could be water pump though
sounds like its doing it at low rpm correct?
check for water around ur timing belt cover

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B20TDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my car does the same not so much overheating temp just rise , temps go to 205-210 and hold nothing higher. only in 5th above 75mph after about 30 miles and thats no pulls or boost in 5th ever.

do you know exactly how high your temps are getting ? do you datalog or just watching the temp gauge?

i asked tony1 about this and he said as long as it doesn't get above 210 everything is ok . i have flushed my cooling system , changed my t-stat and thermo switch .as well as upgraded to a fluidyne .

it cant be the higher gears my car was tuned in 4th. and i know better than to boost in 5th. it does it when i dont boost . it could be just this texas summer it didnt start untill the temps got above 95. today it was mid to high 80's and i drove 50 miles with no problems</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just watch my gauge. it usually sits at the first line before half. on the fwy it goes a bit above half. i do the ol "heater" trick before it gets out of hand.
around town it's fine, though ONE time i came off the fwy and as i was going around town it was going up. it was also 105 today.

fully built 2.0L motor with a single-side fluidyne radiator. new water pump, no leaks. everything seems fine 'cept the temp.

 

This might be a little off but I've ran into the same problem when my headgasket was leaking. Check and see if it's mixing at all with the oil, just look under the oil cap if it's a milky white color. I'd also do a compression check just so you don't over look something like that.

Lastly try getting rid of all the air bubbles in the lines and go drive it around

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first things first man,
swap in a new thermostat and then rad cap

could be water pump though
sounds like its doing it at low rpm correct?
check for water around ur timing belt cover</TD></TR></TABLE>

radiator cap came with the PWR radiator.. i suppose it could be faulty. thermostat is a possibility. easy fix.


water pump would suck. brand new OEM, ITR pump... water around the timing belt cover. i'll give it a look, but i think it's dry.

it actually seems to only do this at higher RPM.. on the fwy.. around 4000-4500rpm or so.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This might be a little off but I've ran into the same problem when my headgasket was leaking. Check and see if it's mixing at all with the oil, just look under the oil cap if it's a milky white color. I'd also do a compression check just so you don't over look something like that.
Lastly try getting rid of all the air bubbles in the lines and go drive it around

</TD></TR></TABLE>

head gasket was just installed. i'm gonna check water level and bleed for air tonight. i'll post the results.

 

yep. bled cooling system. still overheats at 70mph+ unless i turn on the heater. timing is fine. i have yet to check the heater core or the water pump, though i see no water coming out so far... and i don't think i'm losing water.
the only place i see water coming out is the tiny hole on my overflow container.

around town it's fine.


this is frusterating.

 

Dude you have a warped head......plain and simple i had the same problem with my SOHC when i had it and i changed the themostat,radiator,hoses,and then the headgasket but at the same time i had the head checked and i found out it was warped,after the head was leveled (milled) the problem was fixed .......also if you have them mill a little more like .010 or whatever you can increase your compression...my cost to do this was only $50

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blacksihatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude you have a warped head......plain and simple i had the same problem with my SOHC when i had it and i changed the themostat,radiator,hoses,and then the headgasket but at the same time i had the head checked and i found out it was warped,after the head was leveled (milled) the problem was fixed .......also if you have them mill a little more like .010 or whatever you can increase your compression...my cost to do this was only $50 </TD></TR></TABLE>

the head has been reworked 4 times and it didn't have this problem on the last car. that would suck if it's the problem now.
how did you have you head done for $50? i'm assuming you stripped it down yourself? yeah. i'd love to have to do that.
also, wouldn't i be losing water if the head was warped? i don't seem to be losing any and there is no smoke from water/coolant out the exhaust.
lastly, i don't want higher compression. my motor is at 9:1 for a reason

i checked the heater core. it is dry inside the car. timing is at 16 degrees. i have at LEAST 50/50 coolant.
compression and leakdown are fine.. wouldn't that show if the head is warped?

 

Yes i took everything off myself that why the cost was $50 sorry i asume everyone does there own work..and every time your head gasket f--ks up you should get everything checked out ...just because you had the head worked on 4x really doesnt mean that it will never go bad under any circu mstance....in my case the water was not leaking where it was visible outside the block or in my oil ...it was leaking into the #1 cylinder and the way i was able to check it was with a little trick my buddy told me about........run the car until the the motor gets hot then remove each plug one at a time when the plug is removed put your ear down and listen if the water is leaking into the cylinder it will sound like water hitting a frying pan........sound goofy ... that is what i thought, but i heard it...took the head off to get checked found out the head was warped got a new head gasket..DONE
ran the car like hell and guess what?? nice and cool...get it done man do it right the first time, stop giving your self a headache over it..
hope this help
later

 

a leakdown test should tell you for sure if anything is leaking,
hg, warped head, WHATEVER.

def do a leakdown before resorting to pulling ur motor apart..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a leakdown test should tell you for sure if anything is leaking,
hg, warped head, WHATEVER.

def do a leakdown before resorting to pulling ur motor apart..</TD></TR></TABLE>

werd. i'll try ANOTHER leak down. it's hard when traffic constantly goes by all day long

 

Take the rad cap off when you do a leakdown and look for the coolant to rise in the rad.
Sometimes a leak down will show good numbers with a slightly blown hg.
-Brian

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by koolb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take the rad cap off when you do a leakdown and look for the coolant to rise in the rad.
Sometimes a leak down will show good numbers with a slightly blown hg.
-Brian</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've looked for air bubbles, but never looked for the level to just rise. good plan.

i'm also told a friend has a tool that pressurizes the cooling system and tells us if there is pressure bleading of ( a leak ). anyone heard of a tool like this? so.. i'm gonna try to hit him up to use it. we'll see. this car is acting like the last car that had this problem ( leaking heater core ).

 

my engine builder says they don't run thermostats in the summer on their 2.0L motors. we have a hollowed-out one. maybe i should try that? perhaps between the added displacement and the sleeves not allowing the same amount of water though as stock ones do, it's getting hot? oh, not to mention it's been about 108 here.

 

Running no thermostat, with a blockoff plate is just a bandaid solution.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flashmn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Running no thermostat, with a blockoff plate is just a bandaid solution.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if there are not leaks, then i'm out of ideas. the last time the car overheated i checked the water level and it was fine.

 

Sounds like an airflow problem to me. Check to see if there's any debris blocking airflow to your radiator.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slomofo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like an airflow problem to me. Check to see if there's any debris blocking airflow to your radiator. </TD></TR></TABLE>

well, i have an intercooler.. behind that is a 1200 cfm pusher fan. then a pwr single-side radiator..

so i dunno. it's kinda over to the side a bit. i moved it. maybe i need to move it BACK towards the center? i can try that.

i took out the thermostat. still over heating.

 

kaj, are you just looking at the stock gauge, an aftermarket gauge, or are you datalogging with your hondata?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RMS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">kaj, are you just looking at the stock gauge, an aftermarket gauge, or are you datalogging with your hondata?</TD></TR></TABLE>

stock temp gauge.

 

hey kaj thats the issue i promise you! if yoiu have a gutted thermostat it isn't allowing it to sit in the radiator long enough to cool the water put a new thermostat in it and that will solve your issue!there will be 2 different ones. 1 is hotter than the other get the cooler one of the 2 so it opens under less temp.