Finished installing kit yesterday night and today fired it up and drove it to muffler shop to get downpipe welded.

I have the greddy 18g turbo on a gsr. Whats weird is when i first drove car it was fine then i drove it to muffler shop and i died right when i got to muffler shop and i had problems starting it up.

We checked the spark plugs and tried gapping both to .030 and .050 but still doesn't work.

Running on 310cc injectors. Walbro 255 lph pump. JRC intercooler, Spooling performance downpipe and ic piping.

I also wired the blue box in and thought it was the problem so i removed it and car still doesn't turn over.

The car cranks but won't start. There are times where car starts up and idles at 100-300rpms.

What could be the problem because I'm out of ideas. I was able to drive home by riding the clutch and revving pretty high. But at 1000-3000 rpm it boggles like crazy. Car won't start up now. no idea what could be the problem.

 

did you use the injector haress or ignition harness...or just the main harness it came with....also check ur fuel pressure

 

Have you checked for spark?


Modified by Vtaaak y0 at 8:05 PM 7/15/2005

 

Just a long shot, but maybe your timing jump. I would check for spark and gas first. Then I would double check the timing belt and the mark to make sure. One of my friend car did the same thing a couple of day ago and the timing jump.

 

im going to go out and check for spark and timing right now. for timing belt i shold be looking to make sure both arrows on the cam gears are pointing in exact same direct correct?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ev0luti0n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im going to go out and check for spark and timing right now. for timing belt i shold be looking to make sure both arrows on the cam gears are pointing in exact same direct correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They should be exactly even in the middle. For ex. let O be the gear and &gt; be the timing mark.

O&gt;&lt;O.

 

yesterday went out pulled the spark plugs and cranked the car. im getting a spark in all 4. i don't know what could be wrong. could it be that i wired my injector clips wrong? cause there are two wires for each injector. also i pulled out the fuel rail and cranked the car. only the third injector is spraying fuel out. so from the front view [ o o o o ] the one in bold is only one shooting out fuel. is that normal on a crank? im pretty sure i wired up the injector clips correctly but i could be mistaken.

 

what is weird is i pulled out all my injectors from the fuel rail and tried to crank car. i heard the fuel pump turning on but no fuel came out. what could be wrong u guys.

 

alright well i found out something is wrong with my cars wiring. fuel pump gets 12v using multimeter but is spitting out air. when i hook it up to battery it shoots out gas.

also i killed my starter. life sucks.

but we rolling started it. and it idled good for a minute then rpms start fluctuating and car eventually dies. anyone that can help me with this problem? when i try to drive it i have to rev really high to keep it alive. don't know wha this problem could be. car struggles to move and all that. i'm really getting a fat headache froma ll this.

 

bump for some knowledge. cause im stuck. car idles long enough for me to drive it into garage then rpms start fluctuating and eventually dies.

 

wire up the injectors so yellow+black stripe (ground) is on the tranny side, and the colored wire (different color for each injector) is on the pully side. i bet you have them backwards

 

ditch the blue box,convert to obd 1 and get your gsr tuned with Crome Pro. I have ggreddy 18g turbo on my gsr street tuned with Crome and it runs like a champ, no idling problems.

 

wtf i thought the power was supposed to be on passenger side and ground was on driver side for injector clips?

 

thats diagram i followed.

 

.. does your ecu chill on the driverside ? power driver side... ground pass side

 

i cant make out the diagram.

Each injector has 2 wires, 4 injectors thats 8 wires.

each injector has a yellow/black wire and a solid colered wire.

The yellow/black is the same wire really, its a ground.

Wire them up so that the ground is on the tranny (passenger side) and the solid colored wire is on the pully side (drivers side)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Si Shane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The yellow/black is the same wire really, its a ground.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually its +12 volts..

 

so are solid colors ground or yellow/black ground.

 

well doesnt mater. weather its a ground or a +12

what matters is your wires are switched up

yellow black passanger side .

colored wires driverside

injectors always have power.
its the groudn that makes them fire. in which its signal is recieved from the ecu.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ev0luti0n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so are solid colors ground or yellow/black ground.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The yellow and black are +12v.. The different colors on each injector are ground..

 

so im probably flooding my engine which explains why its dying at lights and such correct? i am going to fix this tomorrow!

 

if i mix the polarity then the injectors will always stay open right?

 

i've read up on a few threads and people said the polarity doesn't matter when wiring up saturated injectors. someone please correct me if im wrong. don't wanan waste more time on rewiring injector cilips if it does nothing.

 

did you install the injector harness with the emanage or just the reg. harness

 

don't know what you're talking about i have greddy blue box piggyback. bump cause i need to know if polarity matters for wiring up saturated injectors.