Raz k20a3 cams, UNTUNED dyno, 30whp gain
Please keep in mind that the map I used to obtain these dynos is a very very rough calibration. <FONT SIZE="5">There is more power to be had. How much? I'm not sure, so don't ask.</FONT> The base map that will ship with the cams will have a much smoother powerband and possibly greater peak numbers. I also expect that fresher motors will make better numbers as the test motor has 114,000+ miles. 
right click save-as for video
Graphs are SAE standardized with level 5 smoothing.


right click save-as for video
Graphs are SAE standardized with level 5 smoothing.

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No tuning at all? Where were the cam gears set?
Stock fuel pressure and stock injectors? It doesn't run lean at the top end?
Nothing changed at all?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no tuning, type-s injectors (stock injectors will work though), the car was running lean up top, but that is due to the maps and not the injectors.
the car has i/h/e, hondata IMG, 6spd tranny, k-pro, and then the cams/valvesprings/retainers. that's it for power, stock pistons, stock everything. I might add that the motor also has 114,000 miles on it.
Stock fuel pressure and stock injectors? It doesn't run lean at the top end?
Nothing changed at all?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no tuning, type-s injectors (stock injectors will work though), the car was running lean up top, but that is due to the maps and not the injectors.
the car has i/h/e, hondata IMG, 6spd tranny, k-pro, and then the cams/valvesprings/retainers. that's it for power, stock pistons, stock everything. I might add that the motor also has 114,000 miles on it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnzm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">weak man, u cant even pull on the s2k
congrats powerband looks nice
30whp from cams, what was the Tq gain?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's shown above; aprox 12
congrats powerband looks nice
30whp from cams, what was the Tq gain?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's shown above; aprox 12
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by korean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats next on your list?</TD></TR></TABLE>
finishing tuning, then determining if there is sufficent market to produce the cams.
finishing tuning, then determining if there is sufficent market to produce the cams.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chunky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
finishing tuning, then determining if there is sufficent market to produce the cams.</TD></TR></TABLE>
absolutley sick!
The k20a3 is definitely no slouch
finishing tuning, then determining if there is sufficent market to produce the cams.</TD></TR></TABLE>
absolutley sick!
The k20a3 is definitely no slouch
sav·ior (sāv'yər) n.
1. A person who rescues another from harm, danger, or loss.
chunky our savior.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kung fu grip »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the kpro the glue to this, or is a reflash in consideration?</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. A person who rescues another from harm, danger, or loss.
chunky our savior.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kung fu grip »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the kpro the glue to this, or is a reflash in consideration?</TD></TR></TABLE>
k100 = same cost as re-flash, but dealer re-tuneable.
i'm going to officially support the k100, but no reflash as of yet. i'll have to see how the base map works out from car to car. it's an option, but with k100, I don't see why anyone would do a re-flash.
i'm going to officially support the k100, but no reflash as of yet. i'll have to see how the base map works out from car to car. it's an option, but with k100, I don't see why anyone would do a re-flash.
about $225 bucks for the valvesprings/retainers/seats/seals, NEW. you can find used parts all day long for a lot less.
camshaft cost is as of yet undetermined, but the whole setup will come in well under a grand if you already have k-pro.
camshaft cost is as of yet undetermined, but the whole setup will come in well under a grand if you already have k-pro.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chunky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">about $225 bucks for the valvesprings/retainers/seats/seals, NEW. you can find used parts all day long for a lot less.
camshaft cost is as of yet undetermined, but the whole setup will come in well under a grand if you already have k-pro.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It sounds like the whole thing would be cheaper than the swaps that people are currently doing, easily providing the equivalent of a 185-190 SAE Net HP motor.
I think that's really all that most people would want, and it sounds reliable and quite economically priced compared to the alternatives.
Thanks very much for being on the cutting edge of this and providing the information. I think you've done everyone a great service.
camshaft cost is as of yet undetermined, but the whole setup will come in well under a grand if you already have k-pro.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It sounds like the whole thing would be cheaper than the swaps that people are currently doing, easily providing the equivalent of a 185-190 SAE Net HP motor.
I think that's really all that most people would want, and it sounds reliable and quite economically priced compared to the alternatives.
Thanks very much for being on the cutting edge of this and providing the information. I think you've done everyone a great service.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It sounds like the whole thing would be cheaper than the swaps that people are currently doing, easily providing the equivalent of a 185-190 SAE Net HP motor.
I think that's really all that most people would want, and it sounds reliable and quite economically priced compared to the alternatives.
Thanks very much for being on the cutting edge of this and providing the information. I think you've done everyone a great service.</TD></TR></TABLE>
coming from someone who is typically as cynical as they come, that means a lot.
My whole goal with this project was to demonstrate that the k20a3 motor does not need to be tossed in order to produce 180+whp and run low 14's. I think by the time all is said and done, I will have achieved both goals. The overall cost for the regrind service + new valvesprings/retainers/seats/seals will be well under 1k. This will be the most economical option to make power and probably the best hp/dollar investment you can make.
I've been working hard on tuning the maps, the idle quality is improving dramatically (still lopes, but the idle is much more stable now). I spent a good bit of time this evening doing street pulls to smooth out the powerband. When I get the updated dynos up, I think you all will be VERY pleased at how smooth i've been able to make the power delivery with these cams.
The initial map v.s. the tune I drove home on tonight is like night and day. the former yielded a rough peaky power delivery that you could feel in the seat of your pants everytime the power stepped up, now power delivery is much smoother and much more becoming of a k-series powerplant.
It sounds like the whole thing would be cheaper than the swaps that people are currently doing, easily providing the equivalent of a 185-190 SAE Net HP motor.
I think that's really all that most people would want, and it sounds reliable and quite economically priced compared to the alternatives.
Thanks very much for being on the cutting edge of this and providing the information. I think you've done everyone a great service.</TD></TR></TABLE>
coming from someone who is typically as cynical as they come, that means a lot.

My whole goal with this project was to demonstrate that the k20a3 motor does not need to be tossed in order to produce 180+whp and run low 14's. I think by the time all is said and done, I will have achieved both goals. The overall cost for the regrind service + new valvesprings/retainers/seats/seals will be well under 1k. This will be the most economical option to make power and probably the best hp/dollar investment you can make.
I've been working hard on tuning the maps, the idle quality is improving dramatically (still lopes, but the idle is much more stable now). I spent a good bit of time this evening doing street pulls to smooth out the powerband. When I get the updated dynos up, I think you all will be VERY pleased at how smooth i've been able to make the power delivery with these cams.
The initial map v.s. the tune I drove home on tonight is like night and day. the former yielded a rough peaky power delivery that you could feel in the seat of your pants everytime the power stepped up, now power delivery is much smoother and much more becoming of a k-series powerplant.
I find it encouraging that it may be possible to run low 14s with and all a3 motor and no power adders. I like the direction this is going and it may bring even more support to the a3 powerplant.
I know in your other post you mentioned rocker arms. Were the an upgrade or pretty much just a replacement? Also the srings and retainers are these just oem type-s parts?


