Recently we were hanging around a local dyno and there was a problem in getting a wideband o2 reading from the hytech header.

Apparently, the header was running so cool that the wideband o2 sensor wouldn't heat up enough to get a reading. We had to position a heat gun at the o2 bung on the header, with the o2 sensor in it and take 2 runs for every reading... because the 1st run would cool off the o2 sensor too much to get a reading.

Weird, huh?

Thoughts anyone? I mean the car was running rich, but damn!

 

I was using the GReddy O2 sensor, and it kept telling me that it was running to cold, and that it was still in the warm-up phase...it happened a couple of times a week. I never really took the time to fully research it.
Austin

 

I'm guessing it has something to do with the efficiency of the header. It hasn't changed colors either - still gold. Whereas my toda header changed to purple/ gray in a week or so... That hytech header definitely runs cooler though...

 

Mine is still the same color also...it has changed color farther down the path...ie. a little bit around the 4-2 and the 2-1, but not a whole lot.
Austin

 

From what you are saying, I would conclude that a lot of heat is lost between the exhaust port and the O2 sensor. Which means a lot of heat in the engine bay, that is not very good. This probably mean the material used is thinner or transfer heat more easely. Otherwise the air would stay very hot and would heat up the sensor with no problem.

 

In theory, yes, but in reality his engine bay is way cooler than mine.

That thing just runs cooler somehow... Or I'm crazy. (Prolly both.)

 

the o2 sensor is probably too far away.
exh gas cools very rapidly.

most wide bands should be heated, so i dont know why you had a problem

 

I could be wrong, but a header wrap might keep the exhaust gas temps high enough to heat up the O2 sensor properly. And if I remember correctly, doesn't exhaust gas with a higher temp move with greater velocity? Or is that more of a function of pipe shape and diameter, can't remember...

 

But I don't think you want to wrap the $1300 Hytech header unless your car is race only.

 

I certainly wouldn't wrap the Hytech... Especially for street use!

 

Well higher temperature gas as a lower density so it is easier to move however it does not mean that it moves at greater velocity no matter what. It pretty much depends on tubing shape, lenght, diameter...

 

That's cause its good for 20 HP and 22lb/ft on a Stock R with only the header and V-AFC...

 

Ya mine hasn't changed in color like my spoon one did ..it's still the same Golden brown ..??

 

y...yeah with a set of cam gears and a vafc.....at least thats what it says on their website...i want one

 

[QUOTEreally? thats a very impressive header!!!! are we talking 20 whp here?[/QUOTE]

Ask vagoITR...it's his car...and he's more than happy with his header.
Austin

 

I guess you were running a test pipe or an open header.
These engines (esentially every car engine made in the last 10 years, give or take a few for different car comapnies) are designed to run a cat, which works best w/ when its hot.
When I gutted my cat, I've noticed that the coolant temp had a hard time getting to the 1/2 mark, it stayed around 1/3 after even half hour of driving.

The cat gets hot, warms up the engine quicker which makes for more effiecent and cleaner running engine and in the process it warms up the O2 sensor. Every new car has heated O2 sensors to warm up the sensor and in turn send the correct redings to the computer.

I might be missing some details in it, but you get what I'm trying to say.

 

Well my spoon only change colours up around the engine but the rest remained golden brown colour. If you buy 1300 header you should just heat coat your header it's worth it for 200 bucks normally inside and out does the same job as heat wrap but won't cause heat fractures and having to rewrap it ever so often. Plus coating inside usually helps the flow abit better then normal and keeps it even cooler inside and out...plus coated headers I've seen never change colour no matter how hard there pushed plus no rust problems either if scrap was rusting abit.

 

All I am going to say is...even though its definitly one of the best headers on earth,

no header, no way, shape of form, is going to make 20 WHP and 22 Lbs of Torque on a STOCK Type-R MOTOR.

All alone. No way. 22 lbs of torque?

That means that is going to have like 140 LBS of torque, at the wheels?

And about 185 Wheel Horsepower? 185/140? Thats like CRV/TEC!

I have the dyno, I buy lunch and we test VS your stock Header. If it makes 20 WHP and 22 lbs of torque, i come on here and post I WAS WRONG.

And admit I didn't know. Dynojet charts only please. No mustang dyno's or whatever where stock Type-R's are like 181 WHP.

Not any header company is going to make 20/22 over stock at stock compression.

Please, I invite you. I will even tune your car to its max potential with wideband for FREE>

AND buy you lunch! I will even let you beat me at Street Fighter 2 while your here!

haha. Free wideband tuning on ME! Bring your stock header.

Jeff

 

you crack me up Jeff LOL

 

Was it ever worded from HyTech as a gain of 20 peak tq? Or was it just worded as gaining 20 tq, but not told where in the RPM range?


Jason

 

So because Hytech builds a header to match the specs of your setup, this should be the last item I pick up for my engine?

 

no ****!!!! you all get on your hands and knees to hytec....you all most know absolutely nothing about cars if you think that crap will make 20 whp or whatever it says it will do. you guys crack me up!!!!! you all think I/H/E w2ill get you to the moon.

 

 

Whoa....i think a couple of people are missing the point. The 20hp/22ft. lbs tq does not get magically added to peak. So no my numbers are not 180/140.

Don't know how many times i have to post this but the set up was as follows. Stock intake, v-afc, cam gears, header and full exhaust all tuned at area 51 by Mike. (He is no longer there).

Before and after numbers are on the hytech website and if you bother to read its plain as day that these gains did not come at peak.

FWIW: Numbers from John(clayton..area51) peak = 187/129. This was the week before expo 01.

Three months later...Import Builders..dynojet..calibrated that day by DYNOJET. Peak = 173/124. something wrong with my car?....thats what i thought till the R right after me with the DC header, cam gears, tanabe exhaust, and intake got 166 peak. Something wrong with the dyno?.....who knows.

Dyno day Area51....peak = 189/137. Even i will admit these numbers are high. But you know what they could have been higher. They stopped the sample at 7900 rpm. Anyone else notice this? My plot was still climbing. So what would the numbers have been at 8400.

Anyway i have no problem doing whatever test you have in mind Jeff. In fact, we talked about this before remember?(black R with mf10's and hytech system.)

Maybe run my car open header and swap an smsp header and see what happens...sound familiar?

P.S......i just read what i wrote and want to say that i'm NOT flaming anyone or am i angry. Just wish "some" people would do a little thinking before giving their input. *cough* cali-r *cough*.

 

I actually thought someone did have dynojet(sic) run of this header as there is about one of all the others out there.