Cage mount plates: stitch welded?
OK just a quick question, looking for answers from experienced cage fabricators here:
I just got a chromoly six point put in my EG, and the plates that attach to the chassis are only stitch welded as opposed to being one solid seam. The welds are spaced around the edge of the plate like this: - - - - - - so it is welded to the chassis around about 50-60% of the outside edge.
At first I assumed it was normal because I am not a cage expert and the fabricator is a reputable and experienced guy, but its been bothering me and I just wanted to ask.
I just got a chromoly six point put in my EG, and the plates that attach to the chassis are only stitch welded as opposed to being one solid seam. The welds are spaced around the edge of the plate like this: - - - - - - so it is welded to the chassis around about 50-60% of the outside edge.
At first I assumed it was normal because I am not a cage expert and the fabricator is a reputable and experienced guy, but its been bothering me and I just wanted to ask.
we stitch weld alot of our plates , theres no added deflection and the benefit is since the welds are all seperate if one fails the entire plate doesnt tear off the floor.
but more than seam/stitch welded they should also be rosseted (spot welded) , one step that eludes most builders out there.
but more than seam/stitch welded they should also be rosseted (spot welded) , one step that eludes most builders out there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but more than seam/stitch welded they should also be rosseted (spot welded) , one step that eludes most builders out there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
edit: I was asking what this was, but found an old pic of yours. This one isn't stitch welded but I see what the spot welds are about. Interesting, never seen that before.

Modified by sporkcrx at 8:41 PM 6/17/2005
but more than seam/stitch welded they should also be rosseted (spot welded) , one step that eludes most builders out there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
edit: I was asking what this was, but found an old pic of yours. This one isn't stitch welded but I see what the spot welds are about. Interesting, never seen that before.

Modified by sporkcrx at 8:41 PM 6/17/2005
Also, if there are no frame rails where any of the points attach, your suppost to sandwhich the floor board with two 6x6 plates on top and bottom. They should be held together using bolts no smaller then 3/8". Thats coming from the nhra rule book but not sure what type of competition your planning to do.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlowReaction »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, if there are no frame rails where any of the points attach.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
every unibody I've seen has a set running fore to aft , if someone cant figure out how to directly attach to these items , they shouldnt be building cages.
and plate size should be governed by the allowable area you're allowed to use on each point of the cage.
I shoot for within 10% of the max on every point of pickup , it makes a BIG difference.
every unibody I've seen has a set running fore to aft , if someone cant figure out how to directly attach to these items , they shouldnt be building cages.
and plate size should be governed by the allowable area you're allowed to use on each point of the cage.
I shoot for within 10% of the max on every point of pickup , it makes a BIG difference.
these are the best shitty pics i have, ill try to remember to take come more of the actual mounting next time i go mess with the car. If i remember correctly the main hoop brackets and the rears are welded the fronts are welded bolted on the 6X6 plates.
The seats are just sitting in there so dont freak out about me breaking my head on em, its just the pics...


The seats are just sitting in there so dont freak out about me breaking my head on em, its just the pics...


Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
aren't you the slightest bit worried about being impaled/beheaded in the event of a side impact? I'm not flaming, that just looks a little scary to me (admittedly only shallowly educated in cage building).
edit: beheading may be a little unrealistic.
</TD></TR></TABLE>aren't you the slightest bit worried about being impaled/beheaded in the event of a side impact? I'm not flaming, that just looks a little scary to me (admittedly only shallowly educated in cage building).
edit: beheading may be a little unrealistic.
Here was the first cage I made. The tubing is a little off center, but it illustrates the 6x6x.125 plates and the 1/2" grade 8 bolts that were used. Thought it might help
Good thing about using the plates was that I cut holes in the middle of them to drop the cage down and weld it up much easier.
Good thing about using the plates was that I cut holes in the middle of them to drop the cage down and weld it up much easier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PhatAcuraIntegra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hbut it illustrates the 6x6x.125 plates and the 1/2" grade 8 bolts that were used. </TD></TR></TABLE>
arent you the least bit concerned with using grade 8 stuff in a single shear environment ?
I would be.
arent you the least bit concerned with using grade 8 stuff in a single shear environment ?
I would be.
the plates must be fully welded... its says it right in the rule book general regulations 4:10 (roll bars) and part 4:11 (cages; refers back to 4:10)
it says either is can be bolted with a minumum of 4 3/8ths bolts with plates both on top and bottom or the a .125 reinforcing plate and it must be fully welded...
im sure u can get by a lot of guys with it... but personally i wouldnt be happy with it... im pretty **** when it comes to rules...when i make something... its always to spec
it says either is can be bolted with a minumum of 4 3/8ths bolts with plates both on top and bottom or the a .125 reinforcing plate and it must be fully welded...
im sure u can get by a lot of guys with it... but personally i wouldnt be happy with it... im pretty **** when it comes to rules...when i make something... its always to spec
so it doesnt HAVE to be welded....it can be bolted.
As for the grade 8 in a sheer form....yes i understand that the shear on grade 8 sucks but have a lot of tensile strength....I really think that if I wreck that thing bad enough that it rips those 4 bolts in half....it will rip that 1/8" plate first
As for the grade 8 in a sheer form....yes i understand that the shear on grade 8 sucks but have a lot of tensile strength....I really think that if I wreck that thing bad enough that it rips those 4 bolts in half....it will rip that 1/8" plate first
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
boostedcivicsir
Drag Racing
13
Nov 12, 2007 05:51 AM




