But that's another story.

Here are some pics of my trick, custom, minimal, goofy, and - I do everything this way I swear - Very Expensive trailer:






Tech? Bed is 12 foot long and 6 foot wide. Axle is centered. Tongue is 5 foot. It'z Rigid. GC is 8 inches. Brakes are electric. And I paid about $4000 total for the trailer and brake controller and associated miscellaneum - in a hurry.

Scott, who'z satisfied with his "ITE" trailer - so don't bother telling me about how much cheaper I could have bought something more conventional for...talking sense doesn't work on me.

 

wow,that is outrageous for that trailer ..jst curious,what convinced you to buy this over a more conventional,inexpensive trailer?
do you have to crawl through the hatch to get in and out?those fenders look like they'd prevent you from opening the doors at all.
Chris

 

Yes - it is outrageous.

But American labor isn't cheap - I know I want about $300 an hour for my time.

The killer was the time it took to shrink the fenders - they were made from off the shelf units that were then slotted and rewelded to shrink the radius. It took some time.

Yeah - I wanted THIS trailer. I wanted LOW. I wanted LIGHT. I wanted Single Axle.

There's simply nothing like it in economical production. If you could see it better you'd also see some additional sheet metal work done purely for looks.

And like I said I also wanted it done Fast.

Add it all up and it cost alot.

Yes, the doors don't open and I have to crawl in and out of the window. I've forgotten it just once so far.

Scott, who thinks the trailer was a smart buy compared to what I've done with my Race Kaa...

 

Nice looking setup. Seems like it would be a PITA to strap the car to that though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RR98ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I paid about $4000 total for the trailer and brake controller and associated miscellaneum </TD></TR></TABLE>

My god man.
I know there is no making sense with you, but you could have gotten a nice, light, "off the shelf" Featherlite for that kind of scratch.

Scott, who knows its a waste of time, but it only took about 30 seconds and I can waste that much.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPiFF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice looking setup. Seems like it would be a PITA to strap the car to that though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It was.

I "may have left under-thunk" a few things in the conceptualization of the trailer, and strapping the kaa down was one of them.

To get to MAM I made some compromises and managed to survive.

I've got a bunch of recessed D-rings, and I looped straps fore and aft around the front LCA's between the ball joint and the shock yoke. The rearward straps were fixed length chains, and the front were strapped laterally with chains running thru the D-rings at 90 degrees to the loop straps. I couldn't get all four tight simultaneously - but the car didn't move around. The rear wasn't doing too much then so I didn't worry too much about the sin I commited by looping the outboard end of the rear LCA.

But thanks to sackdz's timing in arriving at MAM I got to see those nifty little T-hook things and I'll be using those at the rear now. And I'm going to make the forward loops on the front fixed length and put in another set of D-rings further back behind the front axle and use ratchet straps there - eliminating the running the chains 90 degrees thru the front D-Rings.

Thank You Willard for sharing the secret of the T-hooks way back (when I didn't even notice them), and sackdz for demonstrating them. H-T Rooolz!

Scott, who, having caused himself PITA is improving the situation...ultimately resulting in a restoration to the normal baseline PITA...

 

Well now. I can't see any more excuses on not making the August Sears Point trip to go whip up on the California surfer boyz.

Rick

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turfer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well now. I can't see any more excuses on not making the August Sears Point trip to go whip up on the California surfer boyz.

Rick</TD></TR></TABLE>

The plan is to be there.

Whipping the locals is another matter though. That sounds like a check I can't afford to cash.

Scott, who also happens to be respectful and indeed fearful of Sears Point - I have no intention of hauling back a rolled carcass...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RR98ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The plan is to be there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It'll be a great trip. Rick is working local hotel managers over for group rate discounts. I'll keep you posted. And don't worry about climbing in/out of the window. I do the same, even with my trailer.

John, who's already getting jazzed about the trip.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RR98ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes - it is outrageous.

Yeah - I wanted THIS trailer. I wanted LOW. I wanted LIGHT. I wanted Single Axle.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You beat my empty weight of 4960lbs by just smidge. Of course, I can go inside when it rains.

Rick

 

Scott that looks like a nice setup and hope to see you at sears point ( i will be observing and photo taking hopefully with a good lense)

-Casey who think you could have saved that money and bought a decent camera

 

For a good bit less you could have my R&R 20'x8.5' aluminum trailer. True it is not enclosed, but neither is yours. Have a great time towing with the single axle.

 

I used a trailer just like that a couple of times for the Miata. I was called a "Bug Hauler", and was made to tow VW bugs (go figure). The guy I borrowed it from used it to tow a 911.

He sold it to Diane for $750 I believe.

My guess is you will hate it in less than 6 months. There was nothing worse than crawling around under everything trying to strap the car down. And I hope they came up with some way to store the freaking ramps by now! Jeebus, that was the worst part.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RR98ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...talking sense doesn't work on me.</TD></TR></TABLE>



But I do like the low-profile trailer

 

I know in my state and most of the states around here it, is illegal to tow a car on a single axle trailer if the total weight of the trailer and contents is over a certain amount ( 2000lbs comes too mind).
I know,I know we have all seen it done and I used to do it too but, if some cop
(state patrol comes to mind here) gets a bee in his bonnet about this, there could be trouble. Scott: double check with your state about towing with a single axle trailer.

Bob

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1stgenboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I know in my state and most of the states around here it, is illegal to tow a car on a single axle trailer if the total weight of the trailer and contents is over a certain amount ( 2000lbs comes too mind).
I know,I know we have all seen it done and I used to do it too but, if some cop
(state patrol comes to mind here) gets a bee in his bonnet about this, there could be trouble. Scott: double check with your state about towing with a single axle trailer.

Bob</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think there are any limitations, anywhere, on weight with a single axle, unless, of course, you have exceeded the rating of said axle.

With enought thought, planning, and engineering, Scott has likely avoided this.


to this trailer!!! I'm with Mr. Coyote on this one, and may have found a kindred spirit when it comes to trailer design. I put suspension under mine, but it's small (but big enough), light (890lbs.) and cost way more than an off-the shelf unit, too..... but if you want to tow it with something other than a $40K diesel something-or-other, that's the price you pay.

Even a featherlight is like 1300lbs, right? 1300lbs of feathers weighs the same as 1300lbs of lead!

I recently did the first outing with my light, small, homebuilt trailer, with a CRX on it, total towed weight around 2900lbs, behind my 1995 Caprice Wagon. I got 18.5mpg, and can attest to the fact that single axle trailers work just fine, thank you.

Good job, Scott!!

 

PS - Scott - What are your main frame members made of? I went with two main longitudinal members, 2x4 HSS, 3/16" wall.

I was THIS close to using 1/8" wall, but the total weight penalty was small, so I decided to keep it beefy.

AND: you might consider one of these:

http://www.reese-hitches.com/weightdist_lite.htm

I'm using one, and it's the cat's ***. Sway control and weight distribution in one unit.

Jon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RR98ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But that's another story.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't want to be hatin' or anything, but

You'd have a hard time getting me anywhere near that setup, both in the truck or even near you on the interstate.

You've got a lot of weight over the tongue--a FF like that should be back futher to distribute the weight more on the trailer's axle... but thats going to be tough because the trailer isn't log enough. This is especially important because of the kind of rig you're towing with.

Please, Please invest in a load distributing hitch if you're going to roll like this with the single axle and the weight uneven. It will transfer the weight off the tongue and to the front wheels of the truck, which will make it far more stable, and hopefully safe enough to drive.

I'm just concerned because I don't like to read these threads about crashed trailers. Trailering a car is probably more dangerous in many respects to driving the trailer car at the track. It needs to be taken seriously, and done correctly. If that means getting a real truck and heavier trailer...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1stgenboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I know in my state and most of the states around here it, is illegal to tow a car on a single axle trailer if the total weight of the trailer and contents is over a certain amount ( 2000lbs comes too mind).
I know,I know we have all seen it done and I used to do it too but, if some cop
(state patrol comes to mind here) gets a bee in his bonnet about this, there could be trouble. Scott: double check with your state about towing with a single axle trailer.
Bob</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not sure if that is true.

It is true that most states you can not exceed 20,000lbs per axle, if it is a straight truck, vehicle in combination or whatever.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rotten &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You'd have a hard time getting me anywhere near that setup, both in the truck or even near you on the interstate. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Scott's setup is likely safer than most typical race setups. And, by typical, I mean a 5000lb enclosed trailer ful of another 4000lbs of crap, towed behind a 5500lb truck.

I'd rather have a setup in which the tow vehicle significantly outweighs the trailer.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rotten &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


You've got a lot of weight over the tongue--a FF like that should be back futher to distribute the weight more on the trailer's axle... but thats going to be tough because the trailer isn't log enough. This is especially important because of the kind of rig you're towing with.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

At a glance, I'd say he has exactly the right amount, probably 300lbs or so. My "ff" CRX sits exactly centered over the axle, giving me about 280 pounds of tongue weight. 10-14% recomended for best stability/safety.

Most "typical" enclosed trailer setups should be running at least 600 pounds tongue weight. THAT's why you need a bigger truck. Scale it all down by a factor of .5, and a small, light trailer behind a modestly sized SUV or a wagon like mine (or even a new dodge magn...ummm.....

Ooops, sorry. Anyway, I disagree. I think this is safer than most, and would gladly catch a draft off of him at 80mph on the interstate. Maybe I can crack 20mpg

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jon Nelson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PS - Scott - What are your main frame members made of? I went with two main longitudinal members, 2x4 HSS, 3/16" wall.

I was THIS close to using 1/8" wall, but the total weight penalty was small, so I decided to keep it beefy.

AND: you might consider one of these:

http://www.reese-hitches.com/weightdist_lite.htm

I'm using one, and it's the cat's ***. Sway control and weight distribution in one unit.

Jon</TD></TR></TABLE>

I built my trailer to be light-weight, and just big enough. It has 6'X13' deck with a 5' tongue. It weights about 800 lb. so a sub-2200 lb. car keeps the combination under 3000 lb. It's a tandem axle.

I used 4X2 channel iron for the frame, though I probably used 1/8" wall.

Regulations vary, but in many states, weights under 3000 lb. don't require brakes.
See http://www.roadmaster-tow-bars.com/laws.html for details.

I have towed this for the last 20 years, and it tows GREAT.

Keith, who thinks Scott's axle needs to be a little farther forward...

 

Tough to tell in the pictures, but it looks like the car can be rolled back a foot or so. Even 6" is significant. Besides, the back of the car is loaded with gear/tires/crap.
Better to have weight on the tongue than not.