Suspension question
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From: State College, PA, 16865
Suspension question
Two questions.. first off while I was looking around over at overboost.com, I noticed they have a bunch of replacement balljoints for the BB6. Are the upper ball joints pressed in? Mine on the pass side is dieing or near the end and I don't want to have to buy some expensive OEM stuff if I can get the ingalls instead.
Ingalls Front Upper OE Replacement Ball Joint - 1997-2002 Honda Prelude (non-SH model) - 1 Kit Per Wheel $27.79
The other question I have is on the JIC suspensions. I saw they have the JIC FLT-1US (comes with 9kg/6kg springs) and doesn't have an adjustable dampening for $1,085. They also have the JIC FLT-A2 (10kg/7kg) (Doesn't say about the dampening but it does mention that kit comes with the pillow ball mounts that allow camber adjustment). I was wondering if anyone has tried these setups before, how the FLT-1US compares to a D2 or Tein suspension of about the same price, and what kit would the A2 compare to in the Tein line.. and what your personal thoughts are on them.
Ingalls Front Upper OE Replacement Ball Joint - 1997-2002 Honda Prelude (non-SH model) - 1 Kit Per Wheel $27.79
The other question I have is on the JIC suspensions. I saw they have the JIC FLT-1US (comes with 9kg/6kg springs) and doesn't have an adjustable dampening for $1,085. They also have the JIC FLT-A2 (10kg/7kg) (Doesn't say about the dampening but it does mention that kit comes with the pillow ball mounts that allow camber adjustment). I was wondering if anyone has tried these setups before, how the FLT-1US compares to a D2 or Tein suspension of about the same price, and what kit would the A2 compare to in the Tein line.. and what your personal thoughts are on them.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: Suspension question (rjr162)
yeah the ball joints press in. take your control arms to a machine shop and have em done.
the JIC suspensions look nice, but are a crap shoot when it comes to quality. add to that the shitty customer service at JIC and think about buying a different suspension.
the JIC FLT-A2 is comparable to a Tein FLEX i suppose, it's a little more "serious" than a FLEX. also comparable to the buddy club racing spec dampers etc. imo all of the above setups are a waste of money, especially on a street driven prelude (or even a dedicated race car.)
the pillowballs on an flta2 won't allow for camber adjustment on a double wishbone car, only on macpherson strut cars, and the suspension is "16 way" adjustable. bear in mind that how many "clicks" you get isn't indicative of how much adjustment range there is in the suspension--only a shock dyno can show you that, and is just an indication of how much a given adjustment range has been divided. so don't think that susp. A with 8 clicks has 1/2 the adjustment range of susp B. that has 16 clicks--so on and so forth.
the JIC suspensions look nice, but are a crap shoot when it comes to quality. add to that the shitty customer service at JIC and think about buying a different suspension.
the JIC FLT-A2 is comparable to a Tein FLEX i suppose, it's a little more "serious" than a FLEX. also comparable to the buddy club racing spec dampers etc. imo all of the above setups are a waste of money, especially on a street driven prelude (or even a dedicated race car.)
the pillowballs on an flta2 won't allow for camber adjustment on a double wishbone car, only on macpherson strut cars, and the suspension is "16 way" adjustable. bear in mind that how many "clicks" you get isn't indicative of how much adjustment range there is in the suspension--only a shock dyno can show you that, and is just an indication of how much a given adjustment range has been divided. so don't think that susp. A with 8 clicks has 1/2 the adjustment range of susp B. that has 16 clicks--so on and so forth.
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: State College, PA, 16865
Re: Suspension question (bad-monkey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah the ball joints press in. take your control arms to a machine shop and have em done.
the JIC suspensions look nice, but are a crap shoot when it comes to quality. add to that the shitty customer service at JIC and think about buying a different suspension.
the JIC FLT-A2 is comparable to a Tein FLEX i suppose, it's a little more "serious" than a FLEX. also comparable to the buddy club racing spec dampers etc. imo all of the above setups are a waste of money, especially on a street driven prelude (or even a dedicated race car.)
the pillowballs on an flta2 won't allow for camber adjustment on a double wishbone car, only on macpherson strut cars, and the suspension is "16 way" adjustable. bear in mind that how many "clicks" you get isn't indicative of how much adjustment range there is in the suspension--only a shock dyno can show you that, and is just an indication of how much a given adjustment range has been divided. so don't think that susp. A with 8 clicks has 1/2 the adjustment range of susp B. that has 16 clicks--so on and so forth.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool cool. So the ball joint isn't a biggy. I guess it would be better to go for the FLEX setup then. Once I get my suspension back up to par I'm going to auto-x it as much as possible. I also need new shocks since atleast 1 is definantly blown. Thanks for the info!
the JIC suspensions look nice, but are a crap shoot when it comes to quality. add to that the shitty customer service at JIC and think about buying a different suspension.
the JIC FLT-A2 is comparable to a Tein FLEX i suppose, it's a little more "serious" than a FLEX. also comparable to the buddy club racing spec dampers etc. imo all of the above setups are a waste of money, especially on a street driven prelude (or even a dedicated race car.)
the pillowballs on an flta2 won't allow for camber adjustment on a double wishbone car, only on macpherson strut cars, and the suspension is "16 way" adjustable. bear in mind that how many "clicks" you get isn't indicative of how much adjustment range there is in the suspension--only a shock dyno can show you that, and is just an indication of how much a given adjustment range has been divided. so don't think that susp. A with 8 clicks has 1/2 the adjustment range of susp B. that has 16 clicks--so on and so forth.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool cool. So the ball joint isn't a biggy. I guess it would be better to go for the FLEX setup then. Once I get my suspension back up to par I'm going to auto-x it as much as possible. I also need new shocks since atleast 1 is definantly blown. Thanks for the info!
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
cool, but be patient when piecing together an a/x suspension, as there are definitely things you'll want to buy and def things to not waste your money on. as you get more seat time you'll figure out what those things are, but don't blow your wad before you A/X, blow your wad AS you a/x, if that makes any sense.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: State College, PA, 16865
Re: (bad-monkey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool, but be patient when piecing together an a/x suspension, as there are definitely things you'll want to buy and def things to not waste your money on. as you get more seat time you'll figure out what those things are, but don't blow your wad before you A/X, blow your wad AS you a/x, if that makes any sense.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup, have auto-x'ed my car, not this season yet though (as it's just sorta started here). I know they are now running "extended course" days. The airport they run at has allowed them to extend the course onto the one runway pretty much every other event, which is cool. But I can tell from just street driving my car after having the suspension apart so many times, plus the dead shocks, that I need new bushings, atleast one new ball joint, wheel bearing is starting to go on pass side, and some new shocks. Right now my car feels pretty loose, and I hate it. I was going to go with some stiffer radius rod bushings (adjustable) to fix my caster issue, and also stick the polyurethane bushing in the other locations I can (shock mounts, etc). Do you think the poly is the right way to go, or should I stick to the softer rubber mounts? The course we run is pretty flat without many bumps, but the speeds can get upwards of 70 on fast courses with quick corners. I'm looking for a more positive feel.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup, have auto-x'ed my car, not this season yet though (as it's just sorta started here). I know they are now running "extended course" days. The airport they run at has allowed them to extend the course onto the one runway pretty much every other event, which is cool. But I can tell from just street driving my car after having the suspension apart so many times, plus the dead shocks, that I need new bushings, atleast one new ball joint, wheel bearing is starting to go on pass side, and some new shocks. Right now my car feels pretty loose, and I hate it. I was going to go with some stiffer radius rod bushings (adjustable) to fix my caster issue, and also stick the polyurethane bushing in the other locations I can (shock mounts, etc). Do you think the poly is the right way to go, or should I stick to the softer rubber mounts? The course we run is pretty flat without many bumps, but the speeds can get upwards of 70 on fast courses with quick corners. I'm looking for a more positive feel.
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