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Modified by CYBERCRXT at 7:58 PM 1/27/2006

 

hell yea man, thanks for the info!!! Car looks good badass!! More pics of the car please!

 

good info

 

Awesome info.

 

great info. i didnt do this cause i was going to have to do so much work to cut the car apart, now, i wish i knew this then.

Couldve had all glass roof.. oh well. good luck and keep us updated!!

 

i wish you well, i don't think its that no one would tell you, i think its mainly because no one has really done it

 

 

can't wait to see the outcome! This is an awesome project

Also more pics of the car please

 

Cant wait to see how it goes.

I dont know why anybody says this is a "hard" thing to do cause its not, anybody with any knowledge could do it.
Nice to see somebody proving the naysayers wrong.

BTW what would you say the glass top weighs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cingham &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wish you well, i don't think its that no one would tell you, i think its mainly because no one has really done it</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's been done and it's not too difficult. Just be sure to brace the A & B pillars for the extra weight. I have a spare EF8 glass top as well but I'm having a hard time debating whether to cut the top off my nsx and put it on there (yes, it'll fit as I already took measurements)

 

hmm.. I remember seeing a glass top conversion poste somewhere on HT a while back ago. It was a link to the person's personal site I think. Several pages of very detailed documented work. Wish I would have bookmarked it. I jut remember being like... this guy could build a car from scratch, let alone just toss a glass roof on.

On a side note, are you going to even bother re-tack welding it all together? The one thing I remember specifically from the other guy's install is that they just used body glue and no tacks. Considering the strength and the total length it would be applied would be more than adequate for the glass roof. I think he quoted a friend who worked in the collision repair industry saying that most of the times shops don't bother to reweld at all.

 

Glasstop would be awesome.

But sunroof is nice too.

Good luck mate.

 

too much work in my mind.. but good project though. post outcome, i would love to see this.

 

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Modified by CYBERCRXT at 7:59 PM 1/27/2006

 

A Fusor rep came to the autobody class I was taking a couple of years ago,and did a demo.He took 2 strips of new sheet metal,like 2"x8" overlaped about 2" with fusor bonding them. Took 2 more pieces and overlapped 2" but welded the 2" width on both pieces where they over lapped,took 2 more pieces and punched 6 holes(I think it was) in one of the pieces in the 2"square that they overlaped and spotwelded it,then overlaped 2 more and spotwelded with a "tong" type spotwelder. Then the fun began,he had a scale of some sort that measured psi as you mentioned and we hooked them one at a time to the frame machine between two towers and pulled them apart. I dont remember the psi numbers but all of the welded/spotwelded ones tore apart at the welds.The Fusor one tore apart beside the overlap,tearing the metal and not the joint.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CYBERCRXT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the kind words. I am doing this just to open some eyes up to the fact that it is no where as difficult as people make it out to be. I would never do it if you had to cut the structure of the car up. Yes, I will be using all Fusor structural glue. If you check out the link to their products, and crash tests, they did better than spot welds. Spot welds can handle 1200psi before they separate, Fusor handled 1500+psi. besides, nothing on this glass roof frame is structural. I will not have to undo any spot welds on the factory support or cross beams!

Someone asked about the weight of the glass roof..Well, its not to terrible...probably 30lbs, and the new roof skin is probably 10lbs. I will try and weight it on our scale at my shop. I know the sunroof panel, motor assembly, and sunroof roof skin will top out at heavier than the glass roof combo. I can almost guarantee that! That info, soon to come!

If you have any other questions, just ask. Thanks, Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXDrew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I think he quoted a friend who worked in the collision repair industry saying that most of the times shops don't bother to reweld at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

True fact, even on personal cars most people will use glue only, I still prefer to do the spot welds with the glue.

 

Cybercrxt;

Thanks for some very good information!!

As stated in one of the prior posts, I don't think people are trying to keep this secret, just that there are not that many people out there that have the moxie (an old guy term) to do it!

The fact that you can re-use the outer seal makes a big difference! The way you word it, the outer seal is more of a cosmetic thing than anything else. The buytl seal would in reality seal out any water.

I've done a roof swap and welded in the replacement panel, but see NO reason for not using Fusor. Keep in mind that the epoxy would be along the full length of the edge and not just a couple small locations, like a spot weld is. The one thing I would be conserned about is having a method of clamping things in place while it sets.

Here is a link to my page showing the roof replacement I did.

http://www.performanceforum.co....html

Please keep us all informed.

Wes vann

 

good info.....(wes v and cybercrxt)....

 

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Modified by CYBERCRXT at 7:59 PM 1/27/2006

 

I like informative topics like this. Good work wes for the redo of the roof. Some other person on here did the same thing with there crx. Also, good job cyber... can't wait to see the finished product.

I thought about how hard it was to do the swap. And in all thinking, it isn't hard. but many people don't have the money to do the swap. I know it was actually easy, because all you are doing is exactly what i thought. Just remove the spot welds on the roof, remove the glass and re spot weld it to the roof. Front end clip conversions are the same as the roof. Just the front end instead of the roof.


Modified by UltimX at 11:56 PM 6/1/2005

 

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Modified by CYBERCRXT at 7:59 PM 1/27/2006

 

The cost of doing my roof swap wasn't that bad if you think about the roof only. What throws the cost up are items that you may not think about. Like plastic clips that break when stripping the interior. It's the cost of all those little things that add up fast! Then there is the fact that you have to r&r the windshield. I decided to get a new one and that adds $185 for glass and install. You also have to buy from Honda new windshield trim for about $75. It all adds up REAL quick.

UltimX; There is a link to Louie's CRX conversion picture site on my page.

CyberCRXT; I'm a little unclear on what the glass seal (the re-usable one) seals against. Does it replace the normal "drip rail" seal along the sides? If so, is there then a pair of short drip rail seals that would be along the header section (adjacent to the windshield)?

Wes

 

damn, best of luck and i can't wait to see the final outcome in july

 

looking good, keep us posted on progress

 

Definitely something I'm gonna do to my rex. Keep us updated.