Cool PLX install
This is in my 98 civic EX coupe.
1 - Remove factory radio
2 - Yank out the black coin holder to the immediate right of the radio.
3 - Use a dremel to cut up the coin holder so that the PLX can be slid in from behind (look at pics 1 and 2)
4. Cut a piece of plexiglass that loosely fits in the coin holder opening - wedge it in so the glass sits flush (pic 3).
5. Blend the plexiglass into the coin holder by smothering it with plasticweld then smoothing it out with a belt sander. You may have to weld/sand a few times to get a smooth, air-pocket free transition.
6. Do a finishing sand with 150 grit sand paper.
7. The plexiglass won't be clear now because it's sanded so you have to buff out the scratches with some brown polishing rouge (used to polish ferrous metals - buy it at home depot). Just get a chunk of the rouge and rub it around on the plexiglass and it should clear up pretty nicely.
8. Place a piece of electrical tape across the plexiglass where you want your PLX to read out.
9. Paint.
Tips: Don't use masking tape to mask the display, use electrical tape because it will hold together better and leave a cleaner edge. When painting, apply several light coats. Hold the spray can about 2 feet away to give it that textured look that will match the rest of the interior plastic.
Symmetry wise, the PLX unit should fit perfectly behind the plexiglass. It really came out perfect for me. I used some wood shims to keep the PLX snug within the coin holder.


Total project took about an hour, and I'm slow as hell when it comes to fabricating stuff.
Modified by EnzoSpeed at 9:04 PM 5/28/2005
Modified by EnzoSpeed at 9:05 PM 5/28/2005
Modified by EnzoSpeed at 9:07 PM 5/28/2005
Modified by EnzoSpeed at 9:10 PM 5/28/2005
1 - Remove factory radio
2 - Yank out the black coin holder to the immediate right of the radio.
3 - Use a dremel to cut up the coin holder so that the PLX can be slid in from behind (look at pics 1 and 2)
4. Cut a piece of plexiglass that loosely fits in the coin holder opening - wedge it in so the glass sits flush (pic 3).
5. Blend the plexiglass into the coin holder by smothering it with plasticweld then smoothing it out with a belt sander. You may have to weld/sand a few times to get a smooth, air-pocket free transition.
6. Do a finishing sand with 150 grit sand paper.
7. The plexiglass won't be clear now because it's sanded so you have to buff out the scratches with some brown polishing rouge (used to polish ferrous metals - buy it at home depot). Just get a chunk of the rouge and rub it around on the plexiglass and it should clear up pretty nicely.
8. Place a piece of electrical tape across the plexiglass where you want your PLX to read out.
9. Paint.
Tips: Don't use masking tape to mask the display, use electrical tape because it will hold together better and leave a cleaner edge. When painting, apply several light coats. Hold the spray can about 2 feet away to give it that textured look that will match the rest of the interior plastic.
Symmetry wise, the PLX unit should fit perfectly behind the plexiglass. It really came out perfect for me. I used some wood shims to keep the PLX snug within the coin holder.


Total project took about an hour, and I'm slow as hell when it comes to fabricating stuff.
Modified by EnzoSpeed at 9:04 PM 5/28/2005
Modified by EnzoSpeed at 9:05 PM 5/28/2005
Modified by EnzoSpeed at 9:07 PM 5/28/2005
Modified by EnzoSpeed at 9:10 PM 5/28/2005
Lol, yeah I would if I was motivated enough. The last pic with the PLX and display mounted in my dash looks really sweet but the pic doesn't want to work.
Whatever. Maybe later when I care enough about this post I will shrink the 8 pics I have and post them up. We-todd-did kind of sucks.
Whatever. Maybe later when I care enough about this post I will shrink the 8 pics I have and post them up. We-todd-did kind of sucks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onePOINTsix »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude resize your pics! jesus all i see is carpet
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ya me too, carpet.. mmmmmm
</TD></TR></TABLE>ya me too, carpet.. mmmmmm
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think i see an electron.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lol, that's my $400 digital camera/telescope at work. Pics are now fixed
</TD></TR></TABLE>Lol, that's my $400 digital camera/telescope at work. Pics are now fixed
Yeah, I could do some buff work, but I'm lazy
Those pics have the sun shining in so they make the PLX and CD player look a lot worse than they are in reality. The PLX actually looks crystal clear most of the time.
Those pics have the sun shining in so they make the PLX and CD player look a lot worse than they are in reality. The PLX actually looks crystal clear most of the time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HybridHatchC1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm i like it alot, but what the hell is it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
wideband...
wideband...
looks really nice, good idea, too bad i have a dc2
i do have a question about installation. right now im just want to monitor my AFR and i used the wideband 02 sensor in place of the stock one so i had to splice the 02 wire on the ecu with the gray wire from the plx, but i get code 41 "Primary oxygen sensor heater". Is that normal?
i do have a question about installation. right now im just want to monitor my AFR and i used the wideband 02 sensor in place of the stock one so i had to splice the 02 wire on the ecu with the gray wire from the plx, but i get code 41 "Primary oxygen sensor heater". Is that normal?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2-JRSC’d »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> so i had to splice the 02 wire on the ecu with the gray wire from the plx</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you splice the wire or cut it? You can't do a T-tap deal, you have to actually cut the wire at the ECU. You basically don't want the factory o2 sensor harness to be attached to the ECU.
Sometimes that will fix the problem. If not, it's probably still normal - I use uberdata so I can adjust for a wideband without getting a CEL.
Did you splice the wire or cut it? You can't do a T-tap deal, you have to actually cut the wire at the ECU. You basically don't want the factory o2 sensor harness to be attached to the ECU.
Sometimes that will fix the problem. If not, it's probably still normal - I use uberdata so I can adjust for a wideband without getting a CEL.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks great!
And doesn't attract attention from theives. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's always my goal. That's why I removed two of my hubcaps, ripped my window tint, and got my black panel CD player. I'm parranoid about theives.
And doesn't attract attention from theives. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's always my goal. That's why I removed two of my hubcaps, ripped my window tint, and got my black panel CD player. I'm parranoid about theives.
Actually, I was playing with the idea of tinting the plexiglass, then using a backlight to make the display visible. That way when the car is off, the holder will be blacked out.
it looks great! i love the idea. I think even if you tint the plexi glass a bit it should be ok since the display is lit anyway. thought it looks pretty sleeper as is since the display pretty much blacks out when its off.



