<FONT SIZE="2">Ok guys, I just want to start this thread by saying <FONT COLOR="red">if you plan to do this mod only to turn the fuel pressure up to the maximum possible setting, you are a ricer and you can leave my thread right now.</FONT> However, if you are an adept self-tuner or are having your car professionally tuned, this is an ideal modification. It requires little time and skill, and doesn't cost very much. Happy modding! </FONT>

NOTE: You must have a fuel pressure gauge installed, or a fuel pressure tester that plugs in on top of the fuel filter. My car has a gauge installed on top of the filter. (I sell these for $18US shipped, PM me for details)

First, we have a picture of what we will be installing.


It's a B&M Command-Flo Fuel Pressure Modifier, Part# 46057 in silver. These are available in a variety of colors, ask your seller.

Open up the package and make sure you have everything.


<u>You should have:</u>
-1 Command-Flo Body
-1 Command-Flo Base
-1 Brass threaded piston
-1 Spring
-1 Red silicone O-ring
-4 6-32 bolts
-1 Jam nut
-1 Vaccum line
-1 Tube of Locktite®
-1 Instruction sheet

You will also require a few tools:


<u>Pictured tools:</u>
-Shop towels
-3/8" drive socket wrench, 6" extension, and 10mm socket
-Pliers
-1/2" box wrench
-New O-ring for the regulator (Honda part#16741-PG7-005 for the D16Y8 anyways...)
-Hacksaw
-And of course, ... not required, but certainly recommended as with any do-it-yourself job.

<u>Tools not pictured</u>
-3/16" wrench (under the rag)
-7/64" Allen key (also under the rag...)
-More beer

Now, you're going to want to get your fuel pressure readings first. With the fuel pressure gauge installed and the engine idling at operating temperature, remove the vacuum hose from the top of the fuel pressure regulator, plug the vacuum hose and read the fuel pressure. Write it down, because this is what you're going to set it to when you're done. (unless you're self tuning)

Now reconnect the vacuum hose to the regulator and take that reading as well.


My readings for my engine/car were:
300kPa and 250kPa respectively. The Helms manual says it should be between 260-310kPa (38-46psi) line disconnected, and between 200-250kPa (28-36psi) with the vacuum line connected to the regulator, so I'm good here.

Now you're ready to take the stock regulator out, so shut the engine off. I'd recommend letting the car sit for a little while to cool off since you're working on the fuel system, but hey... whatever. Relieve the fuel system pressure by whatever means you prefer. If I'm in a rush, I usually remove the gas cap, put a rag around the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter and loosen the bolt a little. If you have a good fuel pressure tester, it will have a relief button and a relief tube as well.




Ok, fuel pressure relieved. Now find your regulator, looks like this:


Place a shop rag underneath the regulator, as some fuel will drip out.

Now, disconnect the vacuum line from the top, and focus your attention to the back. Before you remove the two 10mm bolts (red arrows), remove the clamp for the return line (yellow arrow) and remove the return line.


Now remove those 10mm bolts. (red arrows)


Once those bolts are out, put them in a safe spot... and the regulator is off.


Now it's time to cut the top of that OEM regulator off.

You should make your cut a little more than half way from the top. Don't get too hung up on precision for this part, because it doesn't really matter. Just make sure there's no sharp edges sticking out. Also note there is a spring inside the regulator, so be careful.

Now it should be apart and look like this.

Discard the spring and the top section of the OEM regulator, unless you like to save stuff like this.

Assemble the Command-Flo body (new top section)

Thread the brass piston all the way down, (not tight though) thread the jam nut on the other side all the way down. (also not tight) Carefully insert the red silicone O-ring that was provided with the new regulator, and place the spring in place on it's seat in the body.

Now, dab some of the provided Locktite® on the threads of the new 6-32 bolts, place the base over the OEM regulator below the lip, and install the Command-Flo body over the top part of the OEM regulator. Make sure the spring stays seated in the OEM regulator and the Command-Flo body. Push them together as far as you can, and tighten all for 6-32 bolts with your 7/64" Allen key. IMPORTANT: Make sure you don't over tighten these bolts. These bolts are very small, and it doesn't require much force to make the body meet with the base. It just needs to be snug. Should look like this when you're done this step:


Now, re-installation is reverse of the removal process basically. Place the new OEM replacement O-ring onto the regulator and position it on the fuel rail to thread the bolts back in.


Attach the provided vacuum line to the intake manifold, measure and cut the hose to the appropriate length.


Reattach the return line to the bottom of the regulator, use a new clamp if necessary. For me, it was necessary because I hate those stupid OEM clamps.


Almost looks like it belongs in there!


Now you're ready to start it up and adjust the pressure. Start the engine, remove the vacuum line from the new regulator, and plug it. Watch your pressure gauge as you adjust. To raise the fuel pressure, turn the shaft clock-wise with your 3/16" wrench. To lower, counter-clockwise obviously.



Right on the money! Now, reinstall the vacuum line and tighten that locknut on the top with your 1/2" wrench. Don't be an animal, don't over-tighten this. Just make it snug because if you break anything, you won't have a drivable car.

Now remove your fuel pressure gauge if it's a non-permanent one. (being sure to relieve the fuel pressure once again of course ) Remember, I sell those gauges as pictured for $18 shipped, <FONT COLOR="red">they are permanent, meaning they stay on top of the fuel filter all the time.</FONT>

<FONT SIZE="2"> Congratulations, you're finished. Total time should be less than an hour... probably took more time to read this! </FONT>


Modified by CycloneBlue_1.6EL at 2:28 PM 4/30/2005

 

nice write up
but dont forget to use the seal provided with the kit
cause its vacum sensitive....

 

awesome thanks!!

 

That is great!!! I allways thought it was just a bolt on, did not realize i had to cut up the old regulator.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.beeks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice write up
but dont forget to use the seal provided with the kit
cause its vacum sensitive....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep. Seal is in there, it's just that red silicone O-ring that you see in one of the above pics.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Racermech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is great!!! I allways thought it was just a bolt on, did not realize i had to cut up the old regulator.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is actually a very easy mod! It shouldn't take a total time of more than an hour and requires very little skill!

 

i love picture-intensive write ups like these, makes it seem so easy

 

good write up. did that myself a few nights ago. blue b&m commandflo+gauge. silver looks nice though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dFreezy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i love picture-intensive write ups like these, makes it seem so easy </TD></TR></TABLE>

Especially for those visual learners. Myself I am a learn by doing kind of person.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dFreezy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i love picture-intensive write ups like these, makes it seem so easy </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CycloneBlue_1.6EL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><FONT SIZE="2"><FONT COLOR="red">if you plan to do this mod only to turn the fuel pressure up to the maximum possible setting, you are a ricer and you can leave my thread right now.</FONT> </FONT></TD></TR></TABLE>

That made me laugh so hard!

 

Well it's true... Turning the pressure way up only forces more fuel through the injectors which are opening and closing at pre-determined times by the computer which is programmed with the stock fuel pressure value, causing it only to run pig-rich and waste fuel.

 

Oh, I wasn't disputing that. I just found it hillarious!

 

So if you fine tune the pressure, say increase it by a little, what does it do? You run a little richer to gain a little HP?

 

Nice description. Maybe I will install mine now after 3 years of laying around in the closet because of laziness.........

 

Thank you. I needed a visual on how to do this, since I am ordering the B&M gauge and regulator Friday.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nova_Dust &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So if you fine tune the pressure, say increase it by a little, what does it do? You run a little richer to gain a little HP?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well if you read the paper that comes with the commandflo it says the more things you change from stock the more air the engine breaths. and with more air you need more fuel. you should realy tune on a dyno to see if you need it, or get a wide band o2 sensor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nova_Dust &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So if you fine tune the pressure, say increase it by a little, what does it do? You run a little richer to gain a little HP?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'll have to ask someone who's competent with tuning... I'm not, so I left it stock and my tuner is going to take care of it when I dyno tune on the 18th after I get the turbo on.

 

good stuff, i was scared to do it at first. So i asked a shop to do it, and they said they wouldn't mess with it. So i ended up doin it myself. Nice write up, wish i had it when i was doing it.

 

If you guys want that stealth look (silver, blue, red colors available are too blingy for me). You can purchase a silver one. Before you install anything, sand the parts down with 200 or lower grit paper. Then you can apply several light coats of bbq or flat black. I'd take a pic, but I have no camera right now.

 

IMO the silver one doesn't really stand out at all. I can see the red or blue ones standing out, but the silver one looks almost like it's meant to be there.

 

hi, i'm new to this thing and i dotn konw wat the B&M Fuel Pressure Mod is? can anyone tell me what does it do?

 

Quick question, do you tighten down the spring behind the little gold bolt that goes threw the top of the b&m fpr top piece, or are you saying just sit it in there, and make sure it doesn't wiggle lose?....

 

I guess nobody knows!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, ok.......

 

*Yawn*

 

The brass piece is the adjuster, so you just put it in there loose, then once you hoook everything up you adjust the preasure to where you want it, then tighent down the lock nut