ok im buying some parts this weekend...a missing link, the pipe from turbo to air filter and MAYBE a Nuformz blockguard.....for like 150-175 bucks...

the b/g is brand new...but here is my q. is the nuformz better than str? ineed facts and SOME opinions...im going tobuy a b/g regardless soo dont try and discourage me...thanx

 

Get the one from Race enginering Block gaurd
Its cheaper and the same as the new forms. If you spend $150 you would be wasting your money.

art

 

I thought STR went out of business?

 

hum...I thought I just talked to scott from STR yesterday.

 

get the race-engineering... i have seen a few of them and they look like good pieces... and they arent that much... i cant comment on quality though... i have never used one and i dont want to give u incorrect information...

 

STR is out of business!! They may still have thier skeleton crew working, however from what I know they are done off. The people that were making STR's stuff is now making AC Autotechnic's stuff such as fuel rails, block guards, cam seals, scatter shields etc.

 

[edit]I dont know who makes it........ [edit]

 

shhhhhhhh.. I aint saying!

 

damn I didnt know STR went out like that. O well im using the STR block guard no probs with heating or anything.

p out

 

Does it have gold in the title?

 

Get the STR (AC Autotechnica) one. Coolant channels seem to be better.

 

I just thought that I would let you in on my experiecne with the STR block guard. I needed to change my head gasket and I knew that I wanted to go turbo eventually so I figured that I might as well put in a block guard while I was at. While every thing was off I began to put in, it didn't come with an instructions as far which side went up or anything, but using common sense I lined up the water outlets with my gasket and it ended up with the STR logo upright an facing me, just as you would figure. Any way it was a really tight fit, it wouldn't go in on the front side of the motor, so I checked the part # to make sure I had the correct one and I did. To make a long story short, I it got in and ended up warping my cylinders out of round. Now after many headaches and a few dollars I didn't plan on spending, I have a b16 bored .020 over and JE 9:1s. The cylinders were so warped .020 was the minimum I could go. Just my story with STR.

 

I have warned folks on this site about STR BG, many did not listen or know that they got core shift, I do wish to mention that you should always freeze a BG before the install to as cold as you can get it, it should just slide in like marylin chambers. also the exterior water channels idea that STR uses can also gauge (ph. gawj) the sleeves and jackets, but the pants will be okay.

 

Doh! That's because you're supposed to have your cylinders done when you put in the block guard. Otherwise they'll get all out of whack from warping and whatnot.

 

I hear so many arguements for and against block guards...seems like there is just no real answer. I dont understand how some people have great luck, while others just get nothing but trouble with them. There has to be some kind of inconsitency with installing them. If you line up the coolant holes, tap it in, there should be no problems. I agree somewhat with the theory they keep the heat near the combustion chambers, thereby creating hotspot around the top of the sleeves and creating detonation. With the coolant holes there is still water flow, therefore still cooling, therefore detonation can occur but i would say under sloppy tuning. That really could be the test of blockguards. I would be interesting to hear from the people that have had trouble with them if they were running excessive timing, there by creating higher than normal cylinder pressures, or even running to lean. I am still not convinced that blockguards are evil. In fact i opted to go with the race engineering one with my rebuild of my b16a block. I choose this over golden eagle sleeves. I really dont see the point of re-sleeving if you arent going over 15psi daily driven. I will get the guard welded in, then milled...i will have to see how it goes. Maybe i will be singing a different tune in a few months.

 

welding is great and all but the temps necessary to weld/during are so high they weaken the aluminum sleeves that give all the strength to the cylinder liner material. I f I amy suggest only tack welding into place, can you do this with a deck in place torqued to head specs???

 

well its not only 150 for the blockguard...its 150(around there) for the b/g...missing link..and a pipe....i just wanted to kno if the nuformz is good or as good as str...or both are the same....lemme kno

 

who thinks i should just slap a 2mm headgasket (which i am alreaady planning on doing) and ARP head studs...and f** the blockguard....less hassle...less problems....and do u think i can still hit maybe like 12psi...track on race gas...? greddy kit...ex motor...lemmek now cause thats less money i have to waste lol

 

Blockguards do have their uses on full race motors... they can cause heating problems by negating the coolant effect by closing the deck, but on full race, the high levels of boost will make a blockguard a good upgrade...

P.s. Blockguards should be welded in and the heat from the welding generally warp cylinder walls, thereby... you MUST bore the walls before putting the block back together, if you're gonna do that... might as well save for pistons,rings, rods and the like, cuz unless you have 'em... you won't be boosting high enuff to make a blockguard useful anyways !

 

u kno what guys i've meade up my mind..im just gonna put a head gasket and the arp's on it....and not the block guard..... thanx

x2 where u live in miami???

btw... i was supposed to buy a h/g for 90$ shipped a GReddy one...but i lost the guys email adress anyone??

***69th post*** he he he


[Modified by FBP Ex-T, 11:42 PM 2/1/2002]

 

The kendall area of course ! Doesn't everyone in Florida live there ? You'd think so by the traffic here...

 

Here's my opinion. Get the BG, get the cylinders matched to a GOOD set of pistons and rings, get some rods and build it right. It'll last a WHOLE lot longer and be less headaches and cash spent in the end. I also had my crank professionally polished on a kickass machine at Eagle Industries. Thanks for the hookup, again, Alan






[Modified by SiR Kid, 12:07 PM 2/5/2002]

 

can it be my b/g causing over heating??

 

I've been told you can just press a bg in and that it doesn't have to be welded is this true any one know