I used the method described here:

http://www.honda-perf.org/pics/B18C1.../arpstuds.html

Her'es the pics:









Note: Those are the rear hubs, haven't done the front's yet . . .

 

Cool...thanks Jeff.
Austin

 

questions...

-Can the fronts be done with out removing the hub?
-Are "open" nuts avaliable for use on the OE wheels?

Will

 

Will, I know of a few folks using those "Kyukogen" lugnuts that work on Honda OE wheels.

Mike

 

A hammer to the back of those wheel studs is going to be a lot more friendly to the threads than trying to seat the stud with a nut and a boatload of torque.
I've found OE wheels don't need the rounded-end lug nuts, a tapered lug nut works fine as well.

 

Problem with that is a hammer won't be strong enough to pull the ARP stud into the hub . . .

The knurl is larger, and requires some serious force.

The ARP studs are so stront they had zero problems under the air AND that part of the stud is so far down that the wheel nuts never even hit it.

 

depends on the size of the hammer... I've found very little that can resist a 5-lb sledge for long (including my elbow)

 

Yep, it was more than just a hammer that we used on 4door's wheelstuds.

Spartacus!

 

theres no way it can be done with a hammer. i used a hydro press that had pressure that measured in tons, yet the studs still resisted.

 

What's the purpose of running such a long stud? I would understand running on a larger diameter stub but why such a long one that sticks out of the wheel? How does a longer stub benefit in anyway with an open nut?

 

Hey 4doorH22,

You wrote,
"I've found OE wheels don't need the rounded-end lug nuts, a tapered lug nut works fine as well."

Not a good idea you are ruining your wheels, you might also ruin your car and your self!

 

Okay so why would you need longer wheel studs?? Racing, to look different??? WHY????? Did you add on like a 250mm wheel spacer??? Are stock wheel studs weak?????

 

Kyokugen lugs are great - I have a set and they are very nice. Open ended and totally lightweight - very strong too.

Skunk2 lugs suck ***. I had a set of those and they are soft and no single size socket fits - std or metric. Always a tad too loose so they round off too easy.

 

Relax man...in order to be able to use a wheel spacer, you need to have a longer wheelstud so you can actually be able to safely fasten the wheel to the car. Reasons you'd want to use a spacer are pretty obvious, but usually associated with running a wide wheel/tire combo. Yes the factory studs are plenty strong enough, but they're short 'n' stubby.

 

How would he ruin his car or his self? Do you have experience with the Kyukogens? Apparently there are quite a few folks using these lugnuts on their Hondas, and I have yet to hear of any problems with them. The ONE problem I have seen with them is that the key is pretty week, and tends to strip easily, preventing you from removing your "snazzy" 7-sided lugnuts. They are lightweight as well, if you're into that.

 

I have Kyukogens and the key is the single and MOST IMPORTANT problem. With a stripped key, it it almost impossible to get the lugnuts off w/o permanently damaging them. The key is weakest link, hence IMO the Kyukogens are crap. What's the point of the locking lugnuts if you can't them off?

 

Well, to be honest, you shouldn't have a problem with them if you torque them correctly. They strip when you're trying to take overtightened nuts off.

 

Yeah, just keep the Kyukogen key away from mechanics that insist on using air tools on your wheels.

 

Ever hear of a torque wrench?

 

???
Hmmm, would that be the thing set at 80 ft-lbs that goes "click" every time I change a wheel?
I never said I had a problem with lug nuts. In the rare occasion someone besides me works on my car, I make sure they hand torque everything.

 

Do you have a pic of the lugs that you used?

 

I don't have a close up of the Kyukogens right now. I do have a picture of the Skunk2 studs though. The longer studs were required to accommodate only a 2.5 mm spacer (which were in turn required to accommodate a 225/50-15 tire without rubbing on the rear upper control arm). No, I didn't need them this long. From most angles they look plain ugly and silly, but it does otherwise give my sleeper a non stock look that just make something think my car is faster than it looks.


Here's what they look like with 225/50-15 Yoko AVS Is on 15x6.5 Prelude wheels and 2.5 mm spacer:



I've also been using non-OE tapered type lug nuts for about 10 years on my stock wheels with no ill effects.

 

FYI, at when you crack the 11 sec mark, NHRA rules specify that you must run extended wheel studs when running slicks.

 

And to be honest, when I first got them I noticed WAY TOO MUCH play in the key to lugnut contact. Even if torqued to spec, it didn't matter. The key will eventually gall and strip losing its ability to properly mate w/ the lugnut. Also note, the lugs don't strip, the key does over time WHENEVER you try to take the lugnuts off. The Kyukogens lugnuts are crap.

 

Sorry this is OT, but that Si behind you in that pic has some damn ROLL