Turbo bolts keep on coming loose.
Everytime I race a few times, my turbo keeps on coming loose off of my manifold. Almost everytime, i lost a bolt or two out of 4.
I tried a lot of stuff. Locking washers, thread lock, and a nut on top. I tighten them as hard as i can, but no luck.
I'll take pics tomorrow and show you guys.
Any tips, advice, whatever?
TIA
I tried a lot of stuff. Locking washers, thread lock, and a nut on top. I tighten them as hard as i can, but no luck.
I'll take pics tomorrow and show you guys.
Any tips, advice, whatever?
TIA
what kind of manifold is it? i used to have the same problem with my inlinepro, i bought a stud kit and i dont have that problem anymore.
safety wire does not prevent something from coming loose, merely prevents a total failure...
this is what you really need.
http://www.nord-lock.com/default.asp?url=1.16.37
They are available from mcmaster-carr in bags of 25 (www.mcmaster.com) or i can throw some in an envelope for you.
-Peter
this is what you really need.
http://www.nord-lock.com/default.asp?url=1.16.37
They are available from mcmaster-carr in bags of 25 (www.mcmaster.com) or i can throw some in an envelope for you.
-Peter
it's a SC61 on a lovefab shorty log manifold (the discontinued mondel).
Sorry about not searching, i was really frustrated because it's not the first time this crap happens.
Sorry about not searching, i was really frustrated because it's not the first time this crap happens.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pete98m3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">safety wire does not prevent something from coming loose, merely prevents a total failure... -Peter</TD></TR></TABLE>
When done correctly safety wiring does an excellent job keeping parts from coming loose and does a good job on things that heat cycle such as exhaust parts.
Glenn
When done correctly safety wiring does an excellent job keeping parts from coming loose and does a good job on things that heat cycle such as exhaust parts.
Glenn
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try differnt bolts out of a different material the problem yout getting is the manifold is expanding from heat faster than the bolts and your getting extra play try different metals and your problem should go away like your competitors!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pete98m3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">safety wire does not prevent something from coming loose, merely prevents a total failure...
this is what you really need.
http://www.nord-lock.com/default.asp?url=1.16.37
They are available from mcmaster-carr in bags of 25 (www.mcmaster.com) or i can throw some in an envelope for you.
-Peter</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you dont think safety wire keeps things from coming loose, you are not doing it right.
this is what you really need.
http://www.nord-lock.com/default.asp?url=1.16.37
They are available from mcmaster-carr in bags of 25 (www.mcmaster.com) or i can throw some in an envelope for you.
-Peter</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you dont think safety wire keeps things from coming loose, you are not doing it right.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pete98m3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
They are available from mcmaster-carr in bags of 25 (www.mcmaster.com) or i can throw some in an envelope for you.
-Peter</TD></TR></TABLE>
do you think you could send some my way??? i just need for the four manifold bolts. i had this problem on an old setup and would like to make sure it doesnt happen again.
They are available from mcmaster-carr in bags of 25 (www.mcmaster.com) or i can throw some in an envelope for you.
-Peter</TD></TR></TABLE>
do you think you could send some my way??? i just need for the four manifold bolts. i had this problem on an old setup and would like to make sure it doesnt happen again.
Here is a pretty good site about safety wire that I added to my favorites after another post. It explains pretty well how safety wire can be used to keep bolts from backing out at all:
http://www.geocities.com/robm3....html
http://www.geocities.com/robm3....html
Lock-tight burns right off. High heat lock-tight burns off as well.
Have you guys tried using gasket sealant? I had 1-2 bolts that kept getting loose say every week... I've tried everything actually -- tapered-top self locking nuts, crush washers, lock-tight of all kinds, double-nutting, etc...
I actually used Ultra-copper gasket sealant/gasket maker (for exhaust flanges, etc..) on the threads and the bolts and it held the bolt and nuts in place for good. I believe the silicon gasket sealant is "rubbery and sticky" at all times even under extreme temperatures, and you wouldn't believe how well it does the job. I bet that the gasket sealant absorbed a lot of the vibration acting against the nuts and bolts as well. I never had a problem since (about 2-3 months ago).
Have you guys tried using gasket sealant? I had 1-2 bolts that kept getting loose say every week... I've tried everything actually -- tapered-top self locking nuts, crush washers, lock-tight of all kinds, double-nutting, etc...
I actually used Ultra-copper gasket sealant/gasket maker (for exhaust flanges, etc..) on the threads and the bolts and it held the bolt and nuts in place for good. I believe the silicon gasket sealant is "rubbery and sticky" at all times even under extreme temperatures, and you wouldn't believe how well it does the job. I bet that the gasket sealant absorbed a lot of the vibration acting against the nuts and bolts as well. I never had a problem since (about 2-3 months ago).
I have used ultra copper before. It worked well the first time I used it, but the second time I tried it it didn't hold up. I might not have torqued down the nuts sufficiently though.
Best bet is to snug them down, drive around, snug them down again, then check them every other day for a week. Just take 5 minutes to put a wrench on every single bolt and do a pull on them. After a while of doing this they will not come loose. Just for good measure I still check over my car once a week and I believe this is why my car is as reliable as it is.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NJIN BUILDR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
When done correctly safety wiring does an excellent job keeping parts from coming loose and does a good job on things that heat cycle such as exhaust parts.
Glenn</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, when done properly, saftey wiring is the best thing around. aeronauctical standards specify 7 turns per every 1 inch of saftey wire. We have never had a problem with any bolt, nut, fitting, etc coming loose with saftey wire, we also use loctite as an extra precaution,
all this is on our race bikes, works like a charm
When done correctly safety wiring does an excellent job keeping parts from coming loose and does a good job on things that heat cycle such as exhaust parts.
Glenn</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, when done properly, saftey wiring is the best thing around. aeronauctical standards specify 7 turns per every 1 inch of saftey wire. We have never had a problem with any bolt, nut, fitting, etc coming loose with saftey wire, we also use loctite as an extra precaution,
all this is on our race bikes, works like a charm
Who is Mr Robot?
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Joined: Jul 2004
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sporkcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont get how the safety wire attaches to the bolt??? Anyone have a real picture? There's dead links in the link</TD></TR></TABLE>
you have to drill a small hole through the nut... drilling through the bolt accomplishes nothing. it is either then attached to another bolt on the same part, or wired to a staionary support. (example, we wire the oil filter to a spot on the oil pan, and the brake rotor bolts to each other)
just make sure that when you safety wire the nut, that it is wired in a fashion that the wire keeps the nut from loosening... i have seen situations when someone wires it wrong and the nut in turn loosens the rest of the nuts
you have to drill a small hole through the nut... drilling through the bolt accomplishes nothing. it is either then attached to another bolt on the same part, or wired to a staionary support. (example, we wire the oil filter to a spot on the oil pan, and the brake rotor bolts to each other)
just make sure that when you safety wire the nut, that it is wired in a fashion that the wire keeps the nut from loosening... i have seen situations when someone wires it wrong and the nut in turn loosens the rest of the nuts
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxmatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Best bet is to snug them down, drive around, snug them down again, then check them every other day for a week. Just take 5 minutes to put a wrench on every single bolt and do a pull on them. After a while of doing this they will not come loose. Just for good measure I still check over my car once a week and I believe this is why my car is as reliable as it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wish i can do that. 2 of the bolts (the back ones) are un reachable due to the design of the manifold. Has to be completely off the car to tighten/loosen. One of the front ones is a bitch to get to as well when everything is installed.
I wish i can do that. 2 of the bolts (the back ones) are un reachable due to the design of the manifold. Has to be completely off the car to tighten/loosen. One of the front ones is a bitch to get to as well when everything is installed.
I had the same Problem before, What My Mechanic did was, he Welded a bracket to my downpipe and to the Factory two bolt exhaust Holder that comes down the back of the engine. I was loosing up screws every other days and lossing bolts. That should take the Torque from the Turbo.




