okay just got the ecu completly wired up hopefully correctly...

so the engine turns over like a charm... very good starter sound, it has plenty of fuel, but no spark coming from the distributor. I tried a different ignition coil, still no spark. what are the other possibilities for lacking a spark?

 

ALSO, I am getting an error code 8 after it cranks for a long time... checked the Crank sensor wires, had them reversed so I fixed that and it still does error code 8...

 

Check your spark plug gap...should be .39"-.43", mines at .40".
Check your distributor wires and components...ignitor*, rotor, etc.



Modified by 4gCRX at 10:37 AM 3/14/2005

 

if there is no spark and the coil is new it might be the ignitor.

I had a freyed wire in a dizzy once and would get about 10 minuites of life out of a coil/ignitor before a spark jumped across and shorted everything

then i found the bummed wire and bought a new dizzy

 

Is your wire harness ground hooked up? Its a small eyelet that bolts to the thermostat housing, I had the same problem on my first swap about 8 years ago, sometime it pulls back into the harness. Good luck

 

yes it is grounded... I am not concerned about the spark gap because I am testing straight from the distributor. I will test the ignitor in a few min. do you guys know if an ignitor out of a D15 dizzy will work in the b16 dizzy?

 

ok so I tried using the old ignitor and nothing changed.... I also noticed that there are a lot of metal flakes stuck to magnetic stuff... is that a sure sign that the distributor is toast?

 

Helms: http://www.carenthusiast.com/c...t.pdf
Electrical>Ignition System

If the ignitor turns out bad you might want to consider a new distributor since a new ignitor is around $80 and you can get a new distributor ( with everything rotor cap, ignitor, 3yr warranty) for aound $160. I just bought one from Distributor King.

 

ok just got one from distributor king too we'll see how it turns out...

 

okay still no spark with a new distributor...

I get an error code 8 after cranking for like 20 or 30 seconds

I checked continuity between all the distributor wires and the ecu plugs and everything checks up now. the grounds are all very good, including the thermostat ground. the power to the distributor is good.

the engine cranks nice and hard but no spark whatsoever. I also checked power to my injector resistor box and it checks up as well.

I need ideas!!!!! please help!

 

bump please! I gotta get this fixed!

 

i know is a simple answer, but is there any resistor or relay related to the ignition?

 

yes, there is the main relay which I know works fine, and the injector resistor box, which tests fine as well.

 

How are you checking for spark?
Double check your wiring... http://b16a.honda-perf.org/theswap.html
Are you using your cars harness, not the one with the engine?
Do you have any juice at all?Radio?Lights?

 

The code you are getting is for Top Dead Center. When you hooked up your new distributor, were the plugs different? Mine were. One was a 6 pin with 5 in it and the other was a 7 pin. The trick i used to hook it up right was to take my old distributor with the 5 pin on it and take it apart to see where all the wires went. Trace the wires down on both distributors and then use the 5 pin conectors to re-pin them up the same. You will have to leftover wires(Crank Angle, C1 and C2). Try to find a pinout for the dizzy plugs and find your TDC pin and make sure it is right and tight. Check the ECU ground too just in case. Go over everything at the ECU again too. You would be amazed how easy it is to grab C6 rather than C8...

 

ya I know what you mean by grabbing the wrong ones... did that a couple times but fixed them again. I did basically the same thing you did with the dizzy plug.... de-pinned the old plug and put them in the new one and added the two wires for c1 and c2 and then I double checked last night all the pins at the dizzy plug going to the ecu have good continuity at the propper pins. is TDC the same as crank snesor?

I will try to go over what that website said to do when I next get a chance. thanks.
checking for a spark... we just pull out the plug for cyl. 1 and put a screw driver in it and hold it close to a ground.

the harness I am using was off the old (d15) engine and I modified it to accept MPFI and Vtec. and as far as I can tell no problems but I will go over ecu pins and stuff again to make sure.

the battery is very good when I am trying to crank, we have a battery charger always going to keep the battery charged. it cranks very nicely, but no spark. we also checked fuel and thats good too.

 

BUMP....

ok I pulled out the new distributor today to find out that yesterday I installed in wrong... 180 degrees off and I bolted it in all the way so it smashed those two teeth off. I was actually happy because I thought that was the problem. Nope. I replaced that part and put it in properly, and still no go... error code 8 still. so then I take off the valve cover to check the timing, and it turns out that my intake cam was off by at least 20 degrees! no clue how that happened, so I loosened the timing belt, and set all back to TDC and then put back on the timing belt and valve cover and tried, and still nothing, no spark or anything, only error code 8.

so, I checked the thermostat ground, and that is a very good ground... I tried a different ignitor, still nothing. theres no way it can be a distributor problem at this point, or a grounding problem.

HELP ME! I need this car running asap! -Thanks, Aaron

 

ttt anyone? please help!

 

I also moved pin B15 to B17 as both should be for the ignitor input according to my information, they should be the same, but still no difference. I measured voltage when its in the on position and I get about 4.5 volts while its on B17, but I did not check voltage before I think it may have been higher voltage like 12v... anyone know about that?

 

bump need help asap good night

 

Sensor wiring from Helms:
Cylinder: Blu/Grn C1 & Blu/Yel C2
TDC: Orn/Blu C3 & Wht/Blu C4 Troubleshoot from manual: Fuel Emissions>PGM-FI Control System>Troubleshoot Flowchart>TDC/Crank/CYL>page 6-30
Crank: Orn B10 & Wht B12

And since you mentioned B15 & 17...
Igniter: WHT B15


Modified by 4gCRX at 10:46 AM 3/14/2005


Modified by 4gCRX at 10:47 AM 3/14/2005

 

ok thanks! anyone else have ideas?

 

bump

 

anyone know why I would get a error code 8 for TDC when its a new distributor and all the wires go to the right pins at the ecu? is there a way to test the tdc sensor? that wouldn't prevent the car from starting up would it? I need to find out this stuff fast, please!

 

Ħbump!