Ok, I would like someone to tell me when it IS safe to run nitrous, and I mean just a 50 shot? Cause I am seriously thinking about it but everyoen in here keeps saying not to.

I talked to my tuner today and he said alot of people fear it because they dont know enough about it and that with proper tuning its perfectly fine. Especially just a 50 shot.

Anyone?

 

The key to a reliable nitrous setup is tuning... Get the car tuned, run a NGK7 plug, retard the timing 2 deg, and use premium fuel.

And another thing...

You posted this in the wrong board.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC 91 Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The key to a reliable nitrous setup is tuning... Get the car tuned, run a NGK7 plug, retard the timing 2 deg, and use premium fuel.

And another thing...

You posted this in the wrong board. </TD></TR></TABLE>


haha yea i know its the wrong board, but not really cause i have a fully built allmotor b18c5. Just trying to understand, cause ithink i wanna do it. And what a NGK7 plug? I always use premium

 

Heat range of 7... BKR7E-11's work great.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


haha yea i know its the wrong board, but not really cause i have a fully built allmotor b18c5. Just trying to understand, cause ithink i wanna do it. And what a NGK7 plug? I always use premium</TD></TR></TABLE>

A zex wet or dry kit 55 shot would work well and give you nice gains. Ngk7's are awsome. I can tell you that from personal use. I see your also in Md. For an extra precaution, if your near Ellicot City the sunoco has 100 octane at the pump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by md23vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

A zex wet or dry kit 55 shot would work well and give you nice gains. Ngk7's are awsome. I can tell you that from personal use. I see your also in Md. For an extra precaution, if your near Ellicot City the sunoco has 100 octane at the pump </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha i know they do. But its liek $4 a gallon isn't it? And i still dunno what a Ngk7 is? spark plugs?

and I was gonna go ZEX kit, i think direct port is safest? and what about labor on direct port install? isn't it like $1000?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

haha i know they do. But its liek $4 a gallon isn't it? And i still dunno what a Ngk7 is? spark plugs?

and I was gonna go ZEX kit, i think direct port is safest? and what about labor on direct port install? isn't it like $1000?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well its 4.19 a gallon but I can tell you its alot cheaper then a type R motor A dry or wet zex kit is fine with a 55shot. I wouldnt spend the money on direct port if your only using a 50 shot. Direct port is more effective with 80 shot up.

Ngk7's are cooler range spark plugs.

 

All motor cars do not use nitrous hence the name, ask the forced induction guys.

 

but nitrous isn't forced induction, ask the FI guys that.

 

Hey, youll be fine with a 55 shot. If you dont know what those plugs are just pick up some Zex plugs. I ran a 75 shot on my B16 tuned with a Vafc and timing retard. Ran good til i had a plug fail out on me. But im still gonna run nitrous on my new motor, as long as your set to run it, youll be perfect

p.s. its fully worth it to take a trip to sunoco as well. just imagine yourself standing at the pump fillin up a jug with race gas.... LoL

 

You can run a 50 shot of nitrous all day long. I had a NOS nitrous kit on my B16A2 for over a year without problems.

You will want to get a wet setup; this will help prevent any leaning out accidents.
NOS and NX make the best kits. Stick with one of them. I actually prefer NX because they use larger solenoids, but either is fine for a 50 shot.
It’s a MUST to have this properly installed by a professional. DONT skimp on the installation, this is VERY important.

You will want to get the following:

NOS or NX wet kit. Dont boother with direct port unless you plan on having an 80+ shot. Dry will work and is cheaper, but wet is a bit safer.

Bottle heater. If the bottle is too low on pressure it will cause your engine to run super rich which is bad. Plus a heater will allow you to get all the juice out of your bottle. That **** is expensive so it’ll save you money in the long run too.

Colder spark plugs. Don’t get iridium or platinum though. In fact the NGK BKR-7E plugs are exactly what you need. I used these without ANY problems what so ever. Although I did change my plugs after every bottle. Plugs are cheap, engine internals aren’t. These NGKs can be had for about 2 bucks a piece at your local shop, less online.

WOT micro switch (activates nitrous ONLY at wide open throttle). Anything less then WOT will cause it not to engage or to turn it self off when you let off the gas. this is very good for avoiding spraying while under lean/part throttle conditions. NOS makes a good one, it’s like 12 bucks from summit.

Fuel pressure and nitrous pressure gauges. Electric versions with remote senders can be had for relatively cheap and are the most accurate for the money. You NEED to have accurate gauges for this application, so these fit the bill. There isnt anything more accurate except mechanical gauges which require you to run high pressure lines into your cabin. A PITA, dangerous, and barely cheaper.

You will also want a window switch. MSD make a great version. This basically only allows the nitrous to run between a set RPM limit. I had mine engage at 4K RPM and terminate at 7800. Basically you want the engine to be turning fast enough that there is sufficient vacuum in the intake and to cut soon enough that you won’t hit the rev limiter. Either of those circumstances can lead to a blown engine.

If you have all of this you will have a very safe, almost fool proof set up.

You will only run nitrous between safe RPM limits, it will only run at WOT, at a 50 shot you wont be running too much power for your engine to handle, and there is a very limited possibility that you will run too lean or rich.

Don’t spray in 5th gear, don’t spray for more then 15 seconds at a time. Do all of this, and get all that equipment and you will have a very fun time. Remember nitrous usually makes more torque then HP, so a 50 shot will get you 50WHP and ~60 wheel tq. This is exactly what our Honda motors needed. In fact I ran a best of 13.8@101.2MPH with a 65 shot with my otherwise stock B16A2 EM1 Si (had an AEM CAI as well).

Oh, Id also recomend getting some energy suspension motor mount inserts. These will eliminate wheel hop that is caused by the increased torque. They only cost 30 bucks for a set and is well worth it if you don’t have them already.

With some slicks, and the 50 shot, I bet you could get your R into the low 13s!

Mid 13s in street trim, easy.

..and nobodys' got to know

AHHHH. last but not least. Get all your nitrous stuff from HERE:
http://www.speedshop.org/store/Scripts/default.asp

nitrous pressure gauge:
http://www.speedshop.org/store...t=132

A/F gauge:
http://www.speedshop.org/store...t=129

Bottle heater (this one is better then NOS or NX and is much cheaper):
http://www.speedshop.org/store...ct=17


All of the products at dyno tune are top quality and are much cheaper then the big brand names. I trust them completly, and you should too. They will save you a lot of money on the extras.

PM me if you have any more questions.

-joe



Modified by JoeB18R at 12:35 AM 3/8/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mattb16teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, youll be fine with a 55 shot. If you dont know what those plugs are just pick up some Zex plugs. I ran a 75 shot on my B16 tuned with a Vafc and timing retard. Ran good til i had a plug fail out on me. But im still gonna run nitrous on my new motor, as long as your set to run it, youll be perfect
</TD></TR></TABLE>
OH GOD NO!

Zex plugs suck major ****. I ran ZEX plugs the first time I ran nitrous. I think I got 3 runs in before the whole thing melted. I’m talking abut the metal core, the white ceramic, EVERYTING. And these are supposed to be "pre-gaped and designed for import nitrous and turbo use". This was also on just a 50 shot. I then ran NGKs for over a year without a SINGLE spark plug related problem.

BTW ZEX is made in France. That should tell you something.

Just stay away from ALL ZEX products and you will be good. Sure it sounds cool to have computer controlled this and that, but in reality thats just one (or many) more thing(s) to go wrong. With nitrous, simple is better.




Modified by JoeB18R at 12:32 AM 3/8/2005

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by specie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but nitrous isn't forced induction, ask the FI guys that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You are adding more oxygen than the engine could normally take in since N20 is more dense in oxygen by weight than normal air. Nitrous is also more dense than air at the same pressure so you would have more oxygen per cubic inch. You would therefore be increasing normal cylider pressure when using it.

 

Thanks for all the info. man. That was a great write up. However, I think I will be using a ZEX nitrous kit, just because many tuners where I live highly reccomend that because they feel they are safer than NX kits.

Also, now that I think about it, my tuner told me he would be using those plugs I think to tune my car ne way because they put out more power or something. So since they are cheap I was just gonna order alot at once.

Also I have a VAFC, won't that be good enough to read the A/F?

 

sure. besides AF isnt required.

And for the love o god dont buy ZEX spark plugs. get those NGKs.

 

Thanks! That was helpful

 

do you think a MSD 6AL or something similar would be needed ifyou run like a 75 shot? just to be safe

 

not really. for a 75 all I did was get an upgraded fuel pump (190lph in tank) and retard timing 2*. For a 50 shot, no timing pull is required. It will run much better at stock timing.

However an ignition that automatically retards timing under nitrous use would be useful. That way you can keep the stock timing when you arent squeezing.

 

also, a remote bottle heater is a must if you plan on using da nawz on the street. you dont want to leave your bottle open for long periods of time. again, dyno tune has one for cheaper then the rest and it works very well. a lot better then the NOS one which gets stuck open every now and then.

 

I am not using ZEX plugs, just ZEX nitrous kit. Prolly a wet shot is safest I believe you said?

And what do u mean leaving it open to long on the street? Like sprayign for too long, hence more than 15 seconds? Or just closing the valve when your not going to use it?

Thanks again Joe. I appreciate your help.


EDIT: Now what about price? How much is it just to buy a 50-55 shot or whatever? Less than $400 I believe since a direct port system costs around that.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And what do u mean leaving it open to long on the street? Like sprayign for too long, hence more than 15 seconds? Or just closing the valve when your not going to use it?

i think he is reffering to the bottle being open too long... you dont want 900 psi on all the time


EDIT: Now what about price? How much is it just to buy a 50-55 shot or whatever? Less than $400 I believe since a direct port system costs around that.....

a new DP system is not going to cost you less 400 bucks ... expect to pay about 700 bucks for a wet or dry kit

</TD></TR></TABLE>


Modified by SUB-0 H23 at 1:36 PM 3/10/2005

 

Sooo basically I should just turn the valve off when I know I will not be using NO2?

And actually 700 is not right. Ijust looked it up. I should be looking to spend like 600 for a wet shot. I could always buy one used for like 400 though. Its something to think about.

 

This is another reason why I prefer NX and NOS. Not only are they simpler and therefore safer (IMO) but they are cheaper as well. A wet kit for NOS nitrous or NX can be had for~500 bucks. And yes, you dont want to keep the bottle open for long periods of time. Thats a LOT of PSI that is being held back by your solenoids. they will get leaks if you leave it pressurized for toolong. Hence why a remote bottle opener would be a good idea if you plan on using it on the street. if its just for the track then you can open it and close it by hand, between runs.

 

Also, it might be cheaper for you to buy a used kit and just get new solenoids. you will be getting the wires, tubes, lines and bottle for cheap. only the solenoids go bad, really so thats all you would need to replace to be safe.