Well my brother-in-law and I finally got our car out and running on the track.

We bought a 93 civic cx and did the tub swap rule to make it an sohc powered h4 car.

Everything is done on the car but a few things that are waiting to be put on or on the way.
We took it to Thunderhill yesterday and the weather sucked. Also we tried desperatley to get an exhuast put on before the track day but had a funeral to go to that prevented that, so we had to make a makeshift pos exhuast for it. we had to drive into town and buy a muffler to pass the decibal limit at thill so in the pictures you will see a kragen $30 muffler hanging right off the header. Ans becuase of this we had to raise the car to max ride hieght. Ans had to do all this work on the car in the pouring rain. FUN.
And the car mysteriously was cutting out in turn 2 and 6 only but not on the skid pad. I am perplexed as to why this was happening. And the vss went bad a few days before the track so we had no damn vtec.
here are the pics
have tons more of the whole building process that I will put up soon. But here are a few from the track


skid pad

more skid pad

turn 5
I hope I inserted these images correctly

 

bet you it was the oil pressure getting low. T2 is a long turn with a better (worst) chance for oil starvation. this could result in the car going into a safe mode & dumping vtec.

 

The car didn't cut out at all in the skid pad. So I thought I had fixed the problem by undoing the gorunds and putiing them back on.
what is the best way to stop the oil starvatin problem? more oil? baffeled pan?
thanks

 

so what are the specs on the car.
you're not going to run any front/side spoilers?

 

how much fuel was in the car?

 

We are going to run a front splitter and brake ducts and the side spoilers are sitting in my garage painted. the splitter is in it's r&d stage along with the side spoilers.
engine: stock d16z6
Aem intake
dc sports header
world's worst exhaust system (well for yesterday at least)

stock ex tranny

Suspension:
koni shocks with ground control custom rates
progress 24 mm competion rear bar
stock integra front bar
goodridge lines
hawk blue pads
Toyo RA1s
rota slip streams
skunk2 lugnuts (spent way too much on them, but needed them)

autometer guages

and all the safety stuff:
the roll cage was buy bentup.com
afff fire sytem, kill switch,
push button start (my favorite)
sparco seat, g-force harness
sparco steering wheel with quick release.
and NSX Whit paint
I probably forgot some stuff
We just want to slowly ease into racing without blowing too much money so figured this was a good way to go

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrianZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much fuel was in the car? </TD></TR></TABLE>
half way between full and 3/4
filled up at the track and started to cut in and out after 3 laps

 

Cool man,
definetely tune the bujeesus out of that z6!
there is power there to be had,
and I don't know what the rules are for modifications of the motor..
but aside from boltons.. and internals.. theres not much else to be done it really that will work well.

how is that progress bar?
i have their 22mm bar waiting to go on(putting in my motor first though so its just sitting atm). I know it's adjustable, but i'm curious, how far can you tune it down/up ?(your bar i mean)

 

Probably very adjustable....there is really no limit since there are no predrilled holes....just a linear area where you can adjust the bar at any point. We were very happy with it, and we'd like more time to play around with the settings. That bar is the reason the wheel came off the ground in the pics. But more important, we were impressed with the lateral stability of the car through the turns. The RA-1's, roll cage, rear sway, and springs all add to the stability. Its tough to say what exactly was the key factor in the overall feel of the car.

 

Very nice loking project there man, 2 questions if you dont mind.

Whats is the tub rule that allowed you to run in H4?

What was the total build cost and how much work did you do on your own?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madhatter07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Whats is the tub rule that allowed you to run in H4?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can take a lower model car and convert it into a higher model car. IE CX/VX/DX can all be coverted over to SI, since all of the "luxury" fetures that the SI has will/should all be removed when you make a race car, and the CX/VX/DX don't have any to begin with it makes sense.


As fare as i know you can't convert a GSR to an LS or a ITR to a GSR

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As fare as i know you can't convert a GSR to an LS or a ITR to a GSR</TD></TR></TABLE>

What I've been told is that you can convert a GSR to an LS and vice versa. The tubs are the same. However, neither one can be swapped with an ITR as the ITR tub has extra reinforcements and other structural advantages.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by niterida &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We just want to slowly ease into racing without blowing too much money so figured this was a good way to go</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's a good idea and it looks like you guys are doing a great job so far. I'm really wishing I would have had the option of running a stock motor about now, but man it's hard to find a used 88-91 CRX motor in good enough shape to race on. Maybe I just wasn't patient enough.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madhatter07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Very nice loking project there man, 2 questions if you dont mind.

Whats is the tub rule that allowed you to run in H4?

What was the total build cost and how much work did you do on your own?</TD></TR></TABLE>
we did all of the work ourselves in our garage
except the cage.
the total cost was just above $7k including the car.

 

Nice race car.

Good luck, and have fun

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madhatter07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Very nice loking project there man, 2 questions if you dont mind.

Whats is the tub rule that allowed you to run in H4?

What was the total build cost and how much work did you do on your own?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just added it up....and its a little below $7k...more like $6.5k (at least that's what I'm telling myself all the time)...and I don't really see how to get it much lower than that. We have 3 new items on the car...intake and header and tires....everything else is used. I think its been said that if you want to build a HC car...buy one...its usually cheaper. Of course you miss all the cursing, swearing, cuts, bruises, and the 3 am Denny's trips

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by niterida &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The car didn't cut out at all in the skid pad. So I thought I had fixed the problem by undoing the gorunds and putiing them back on.
what is the best way to stop the oil starvatin problem? more oil? baffeled pan?
thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

i usually experience oil starve in quick L-R combo corners. to prevent it, i overfill the crankcase by .5qt, and it usually helps. however, i'd much rather have a baffled pan, if anyone would make one for my bastard child h22 (and our F-series brethren).

i guess the extreme solution is to run a dry sump.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if anyone would make one for my bastard child h22 (and our F-series brethren).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get a spare pan and take it to a good fab shop

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rexrover17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I just added it up....and its a little below $7k...more like $6.5k (at least that's what I'm telling myself all the time)...and I don't really see how to get it much lower than that. We have 3 new items on the car...intake and header and tires....everything else is used. I think its been said that if you want to build a HC car...buy one...its usually cheaper. Of course you miss all the cursing, swearing, cuts, bruises, and the 3 am Denny's trips </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah i would think that buying a race car already built would take away all the fun from it. I can't wait until I have the time/resources to built a car like that, it looks like a really fun little beast. Have fun with it guys!!

P.S. Can we see a parts list or a build diary?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madhatter07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah i would think that buying a race car already built would take away all the fun from it. I can't wait until I have the time/resources to built a car like that, it looks like a really fun little beast. Have fun with it guys!!

P.S. Can we see a parts list or a build diary?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah I will post a full parts list and build diary as soon as I get all the pics off the digital camera and scan the ones we took on the real camera