My girlfriend's Del Sol had a leaky cam seal so I decided to replace it today. Below are pictures and instructions on how to do it. Thanks for looking and hopefully this helps you guys out.

The following is a list of tools you will need:

Regular ratchet
Torque wrench
High Temp RTV sealant
10mm deep socket
12mm deep socket
Flat head screwdriver
New Cam Seal (I went with Golden Eagle)
*BEER (A must for any job)



Here is a pic of the motor before I started. Turbo B16 in a del sol. Replacement is the same for B16's, B18's, and H22's (except cam seal is on the intake cam for the h22)



Step 1.

Start off by pulling out the spark plug wires and taking off your valve cover. Use the 10mm socket to remove the nuts on the valve cover and the bolt for the ground wire. After removing the valve cover, this is what you will be left with.



Step 2.

Using your 10mm socket loosen the 2 bolts and end of the cam plate next to the cam gear. Remember, you only have to take the bolts out for the exhaust cam. Now using your 12mm socket, loosen the 10 bolts holding the rest of the cam plate down. I usually work from the outside-in when loosening. Now you can pull the cam plate off and set it to the side.



Step 3.

Using your 10mm socket, loosen the 2 bolts that hold down the end cam cap and cam seal. Take a flathead screwdriver and GENTLY pry up to loosen the cam cap. Remove the cap, set it aside, and pull out the old cam seal.



Step 4.

Clean the area where the new cam seal will sit. Grab the new cam seal and apply just a dab of oil to the o-rings so they don't crack over time. Place the new cam seal in its place. Grab the cam cap and clean it as well. Apply just a tad of RTV sealant to the cam cap around the edges and then put the cam cap back on the motor. Do not tighten the bolts yet.



Step 5.

Install the cam cover and thread in all 10 of the 12mm bolts and the 4 10 mm bolts. You will need to torque these to spec in the correct order.

Torque Specs:
12mm bolts = 20 ft lbs
10mm bolts = 9 ft lbs

Start from the inside and work your way out. IE: Top center then bottom center, Top right center then bottom right center, Top left center then bottom left center, etc etc. Diagram below

13 9 5 1 3 7 11

14 10 6 2 4 8 12

After all is torqed down here look at your shiny *** new cam seal installed



Step 6.

Install your valve cover and tighten down the 10mm nuts with the 10mm socket. Put your plug wires in in the correct order. Bolt down your ground wire and you're good to go. Here's a pic once everything is finished up. Thank you cerveza

 

nice work!

 

* clap *clap *clap

 

nice job.....turbo b16, that shouldn't be in a del slow

 

great writeup!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eric.ws.anderson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice write-up! Curious... what symptoms made you aware that the cam seal was leaky?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You could usually tell by the trail of oil that comes from it. Its not alot at first but over time it builds up and looks like ***. I had it before but then switched it out.

Damn dude your girl drives a turbo Del Sol.

 

nice write up.... I just did one not too long ago also.

 

Thanks for looking guys. Hopefully this helps you out.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eric.ws.anderson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice write-up! Curious... what symptoms made you aware that the cam seal was leaky?</TD></TR></TABLE>

As Luserkid stated, oil lightly leaks from it and over time just builds up. There was oil resting around the area where the block and head met, and a trail of oil leading down to that spot. I've had this happen a ton of times and just knew the cam seal needed replacement.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Damn dude your girl drives a turbo Del Sol. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, she's the best

 

Nice work!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMH22HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yep, she's the best </TD></TR></TABLE>

She have any hot sisters?

 

awesome. i was just about to do this on my DA

 

nice DIY... same thing for single cams ?

 

I don't know if I'd recommend this job to every person who's got some oil leaking to the head/block area. I had the exact same leaky seal and just a little sealent all around the outside of the seal worked in by my finger worked great, and it's been good for the last 6 months.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

She have any hot sisters?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha, nope.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowdx9585 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice DIY... same thing for single cams ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think single cams have cam seals. One side has the cam gear and the other side is the distributor. But If I'm wrong, somebody please correct me.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Falqon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know if I'd recommend this job to every person who's got some oil leaking to the head/block area. I had the exact same leaky seal and just a little sealent all around the outside of the seal worked in by my finger worked great, and it's been good for the last 6 months.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is an easy way of temporarily fixing it, but not the right way. I wanted to fix it the right way and not have it happen again. It was only $30 and only takes 30 minutes to do.

 

Nice DIY write up. And it is usually better to do it the right way.

 

thank you for taking the time out to write this up!

 

nice write up, but the 10mm nuts should be torqued to 7.2 lb/ft, not 9

 

Great DIY, im just about to change out my leaky cam seal. When i looked towards HT for some reinforcement on the torque spec and sequence of cam holder your DIY was right there, lol. Thanks for the DIY.

 

Nice job

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by an2ny888 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice write up, but the 10mm nuts should be torqued to 7.2 lb/ft, not 9</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I had two different specs out of two different manuals. One said 108 inch/lbs which is 9 ft lbs and the other said 90 inch pounds which would round up to 7.5 ft lbs.

Glad I could help you guys out

 

Good job on the write up...

 

nice job.

i noticed two things, though..
1- you call it a "cam seal". when i opened this thread, i thought you were going to be pulling one of the cam gears off, because that's where the cams seals are. what you replaced is a cam PLUG.
2- sol mexican beer = ****

lol. but nice write up. nice pics.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mike K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice job.

i noticed two things, though..
1- you call it a "cam seal". when i opened this thread, i thought you were going to be pulling one of the cam gears off, because that's where the cams seals are. what you replaced is a cam PLUG.
2- sol mexican beer = ****

lol. but nice write up. nice pics.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks

1. Yeah, I just call it the "cam seal" because the real name is "camshaft sealing plug". Everytime you buy an aftermarket replacement it just says cam seal on the package. BTW, what do you mean by the cam seal by the gears?

2. I like Sol Must be the mexican in me

 

Great write up

 

there's a cam seal that goes around each camshaft, at the end by the cam gear. 91213-PR3-004 is the oem part number. don't have a pic.