hey guys i need someone to pleeaase tell me the parts i need to remove my abs out of my 94 gsr. so far ive heard that i need rs brake likes and prop valve? is this all i need and does anyone have parts #s??? this is drivin me nuts!

 

You need from an Integra RS:

1) 4 front brake lines
2) RS master cylinder
3) RS brake booster
4) RS Prop Valve

 

what is the difference between the boosters? i know the master cylinder on the rs has both fittings on one sice and the gsr has em on both- but i was told the lines could be contoured to fit....

 

Honestly, I believe you can use the GSR booster still. You will have to adjust it from the back to prevent the brakes from grabbing.

 

this can be done with the dash in place? what is the adj like? and how should i adjust it? sorry for so many questions but i want to make sure i do this right

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1156154

Check my thread out. There is a picture of a brake booster. I highly advise you to remove the brake booster. It will be a pain in the rear to try adjust that tiny nut while still in the vehicle.

 

just wondering why do you wanna remove the abs?

 

i have been driving for almost 2 years(and the winter last year) with the abs fuse, sensors, and fusebox removed...and like it better without abs- i can brake later without having the pedal pump..... and now that my cars off the road i wanna get the rest out lose some weight and empty out the engine bay

 

i figured the booster is only like 30 bucks and so is the master cylinder so im just gonna go for the whole rs setup... booster mc lines prop valve. if i just bolt this in it should work fine right? no need for adjustment? i want to make this go as smoothly as possible

 

hey did you end up doing this yet? i'm about to do it on my 95 gsr and i have a 99-00 si prop valve. I think i might try to get the 00 brake lines and see if they work, if not then i have to custom some lines.

 

not sure about the si- i just got all my parts in today- i ordered from http://www.evansautomotive.net/mail.htm i got the 4 front lines, booster prop valve and mc all for 150 shipped to new york. im puttin it in now and everything seems to be lining up nice- im tryin to figure out which way the prop valve goes on

 

Keep in mind you don't have to use the RS parts. You could use the GSR MS and booster along with custom brake lines and any 4 wheel disk honda proportioning valve. I did mine this way for about $50. The RS parts make it's a bolt in application and easier however it does cost more $.

 

Do anyone know where i can get the steel brake lines at? Im removing my abs and i'm gonna just bend all new lines, where can i get it and what size is the fittings on the end of the line? I have 2 more lines to do and my home free!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tRaCeBuStAbUsTeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do anyone know where i can get the steel brake lines at? Im removing my abs and i'm gonna just bend all new lines, where can i get it and what size is the fittings on the end of the line? I have 2 more lines to do and my home free! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Local auto parts store and bring a piece of your line to match the size.

 

yeah i brought it to kragen and the only thing they had was not the exact same one. It fits but the screw is a lot longer so im not sure if it will leak, and they didnt even have enough for me to finish all my lines

 

the threaded portion can be longer, that won't be a issue. Go somewhere else and buy some more to finish.

 

Here is a picture of the Master Cylinder on my GSR. Notice the line on the left utilizes the stock nut but a custom line because I couldn't find one at the auto parts store. The line on the right is one I bought and notice the longer nut used (no leaks).

Here is the tools I had to buy (tube bender, flare tool and mini pipe cutter)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by migs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need from an Integra RS:

1) 4 front brake lines
2) RS master cylinder
3) RS brake booster
4) RS Prop Valve</TD></TR></TABLE>


would you recommend these parts be new? just for qualitys sake?

 

its always better to have "new" stuff but i don't think its worth it to get it new because all those will cost over $350 roughly and if you find a junkyard that has it, it will cost you probably around $150 or so. What i did was just a get proportioning valve from a 99si for $35 and go to sears to get the pipe cutter and flaring tool which cost me $25 and to go a local auto part store to get some lines and bend my own lines, just like what skunked said. btw thanks for the help skunked

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Keep in mind you don't have to use the RS parts. You could use the GSR MS and booster along with custom brake lines and any 4 wheel disk honda proportioning valve. I did mine this way for about $50. The RS parts make it's a bolt in application and easier however it does cost more $.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how much did you spend total to get the whole job done? i want to do this, but if there are "cheaper" ways of doing so ...... i would most definately like to know

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eymnewdc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how much did you spend total to get the whole job done? i want to do this, but if there are "cheaper" ways of doing so ...... i would most definately like to know</TD></TR></TABLE>

Proportioning valve $20
Tools $15-30 depending on quality...or return them after you use them
Brake lines $15-20
Fluid $10

It was cheap and this was another excuse to buy some tools

 

yeah thats the "cheap" way. But you end up doing more work, the hard part is bending the lines and calculating where to bend it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tRaCeBuStAbUsTeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah thats the "cheap" way. But you end up doing more work, the hard part is bending the lines and calculating where to bend it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not that hard.

 

what proportioning valve are y'all using?

 

use your old lines with those hydro line adapter things on the ends....but I don't know why you can't use you old master cylinder and prop valve.