i recently bought a shell to use as a drag car that came without any kind of wiring harness, and i'm looking for a little help to get the motor wired up.

what i'd like to do is use a plain old p28 to run the motor. am i going to be able to use my ecu without any kind of body harness? i've been looking at ecu pinouts, and there are a lot wires going out to things that aren't in the car anymore.

i've really never delt with anything like this, so i'm looking for a little guidence.

thanks!!

 

little help?

 

I think Aem sells a race harness.Not sure its compatible with a stock ecu though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aggressivemotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think Aem sells a race harness.Not sure its compatible with a stock ecu though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

there was one other place that i found that makes a "race" engine harness, but i get the idea that they primarely for stand alone type ecu's as apposed to oem stuff.

maybe i'll try contacting some of different places that make engine harness if they have ever done anything for an application similar to mine. i know there are people out there using hondata to tune there race cars, so i'm not the first person in this situation.

bump!!

 

what id say is get the pinouts which it looks like u already did. find the ones absolutely necessary and connect them to the proper sensor. then in that manual it will tell u the operating range in ohms of each sensor. for each sensor u arent using buy the proper sized capacitor for that ohm reading range. then connect the resistors to the ECU via a terminal block. each sensor should need a ground to complete its electrical path so keep that in mind. thats my thoughts.

 

Whenever I'm working with a "race" chassis or something that doesn't require the rest of the internal cabin harness I normally will just rewire the motor with an EJ harness. You'll need to make a few connections obviously for switched power, etc. but it's a lot simpler and cleaner than working with a 2 piece harness (if you're dealing with a EF, EH, DA, or DC chassis). If you choose this route you'll need an OBDIIa or b to OBDI jumper depending on which year harness you go with. That is unless you just hardwire some OBDI pigtails directly on. Again this is just what I do, you could also make a harness from scratch which is nice because you only have to wire in the essentials (even better with Mil Spec wire and DR25 shrink!!!). I'm extremely meticulous when it comes to this kinda stuff so I may not be the best person to be getting ideas from. Just my $0.02 tho.

 

adam, y dont u post up a pic or 2?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">adam, y dont u post up a pic or 2?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i second that, i guess i dont understand how using the EJ harness would be any better/easier.

 

i personally prefer to make the harness from scratch... u put in exactly what u want and need into it... no extra wires and u make it fit the way u want... but thats just me... it is work, but like adam said about being meticulous... im the same way... it has to be perfect... so i might not be the best to talk to about it either

right now im actually makeing a harness for a hatch running an aem... got the ecu plugs and a bunch of autosports and just pieceing it all together

 

Yaaaay, I'm not the only weirdo out there! haha just playin! Anywho I really don't have any pics of my harnesses that are related to what you're doing. Lately I've been working with standalones on race and street cars so these are the closest pics I have. The reason I see the EJ harness as being easier/cleaner is plain and simple. It doesn't require you to run a separate interior cabin harness in conjunction with the exterior engine harness. Again I don't know what chassis you're working with but if it does have a "2 piece" harness (or originally did have) I'm sure you'll find that you'll be ripping apart the interior harness only to remove most of what is in it. With the EJ harness you have a direct line out to the motor, just like most standalones. This allows you to eliminate the interior harness completely in most cases (especially when working with race chassis). Obviously it's not as simple as that, you'll need to setup some relays to power up all your switched power, etc. but there's not a whole lot to it. Will (WillieWillieFast) is actually bringing his S/FWD Rex down to me tonight so I can get started on his Motec. I'll try to get some pics of it up too, even though I'm sure you've probably seen similar systems. With his car I'm working with the exact opposite as you, we have a one piece harness but it needs to be tied into the interior so that everything functions as a normal street car. Okay enough of me rambling... and again these harnesses were all for street cars but atleast you might be able to get an idea on how I do things. If we wanted to put any of these harnesses on your car we'd add in a couple relays, along with a few other components, and you'd be set.

Just a standard EJ harness getting reworked for DOHC VTEC

Brian's FAST EJ harness

Derrick's K20 EJ harness

 

ok, i understand now...........

the car is a 90 hatch, but it has no wiring in it AT ALL, so that doesn't really matter. i was unaware that the EJ had a completely seperate engine harness, this gives me a lot of idea's. sounds like the EJ route would be a matter of redoing some conectors, and a obd1 jumper like you said earlier. my main issue was that i didn't want to deal with a dash/body harness; there's nothing left in the car that would have attached to an EF harness besides the motor.

thanks kataku2k3, you've given me a starting point

 

No prob, glad I could help a lil and Good Luck.

 

Kataku2K3 - Your harnesses look good man.

Here is one that I finished a little while back for a guy. OBD2 motor, OBD1 Hondata and OBD0 90 crx. He had no dash wiring, no cluster, full race car. I installed a LED to the side of the ecu and a toggle switch so he could check his codes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Kataku2K3 - Your harnesses look good man.

Here is one that I finished a little while back for a guy. OBD2 motor, OBD1 Hondata and OBD0 90 crx. He had no dash wiring, no cluster, full race car. I installed a LED to the side of the ecu and a toggle switch so he could check his codes.
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**** jake, jump on that foo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Kataku2K3 - Your harnesses look good man.

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I can vouch for that.

Your stuff is pretty clean as well. The toggle switch is baller

 

Thanks for the compliments guys! Jason, your harnesses look good too! Jspin, I'm sure you already realize this but what Jason has pictured is basically what you need to make (depends on what dizzy, alternator, etc. you're running) but once you have that you'll be set.