I'm not super familiar with H22 swaps into EG/EK/DC chassis's but I do know that these specific swaps are cursed with a EGR/code 12 problem, when using an OBD1 P13 ecu.

Is it just a simple fix of wiring in the H22's EGR to alleviate the code 12? or is it more than that?

Is there a fix for this someone can share? If so, I'd like to know and share this info on my technet site.

thanks for any help!

 

run a p72 and that will solve all your problems i have personally witnessed a stock p72 on a h22 civic make more power on the dyno then a spoon program p13.So sale the p13 and go get a p72.You will thank me later.O and by the way the guy that owns the dyno i was talking about has dynoed many h22 cars with the two ecu's and everytime the p72 makes more horse and torque threw out the powerband and peak.

 

thanks for your reply.
oh yes, I know about running a P72 instead of a P13 ecu, and thats good to know a P72, dyno proven, makes more power over a spoon chipped P13 ecu; I've wondered about that; but my aim is to find the fix for the EGR/code 12 whilst using the P13 ecu. I personally don't have an H22 swap; My curiosity is just for wanting to know some handy knowledge on this issue.

 

There probably isn't a way around it due to the information that the ECU is looking for in response to it commanding the EGR. Usually when the EGR is commanded open, there is a pressure drop in the intake - so the ECU is going to look at the MAP sensor for some verification that things are working/flowing correctly.

 

thanks for the info Chris!

 

Katman, i am in the same boat as you. Currently dealing with an H22 in a 95 Accord. It consistently pulls code 12, and here is the kicker....... it also pulls code 36. This is a JDM P13 automatic ECU. nowhere can i find any info regarding a Code 36, do you have anything to share regasrding this issue?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integrator43 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Katman, i am in the same boat as you. Currently dealing with an H22 in a 95 Accord. It consistently pulls code 12, and here is the kicker....... it also pulls code 36. This is a JDM P13 automatic ECU. nowhere can i find any info regarding a Code 36, do you have anything to share regasrding this issue? </TD></TR></TABLE>

actually, I got some tasty info regarding this from a fellow hybrid member; he said this:

"Yeah I've done this, and it can be a PITA the first couple times. First and Foremost you do have to wire up BOTH EGR sensors. One is on the intake manifold (the three wire sensor), and the other is a two wire sensor which mounts to the firewall. If either of these are missing, or if a wire or vacume line is crossed, you will get code 12 after a while.

What model is the chassis? The best is a civic VX because EGR is wired into the chassis"

...that's all i got so far, I'm going to call him and get the low down...

Code 36 sounds familiar, but I can't remember what it is off hand, probably something auto tranny related tho. You should really have your P13 reprogrammed to 5spd spec!

 

to get around the code 12 the egr system needs to be wired in right, along with the right sequence of solenoids and valves on the vacuum lines. its nto that hard, jstu tedious and somethign that most honda swappers are nto willing to do since so few of them are competent mechanics.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v4lu3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to get around the code 12 the egr system needs to be wired in right, along with the right sequence of solenoids and valves on the vacuum lines. its nto that hard, jstu tedious and somethign that most honda swappers are nto willing to do since so few of them are competent mechanics.</TD></TR></TABLE>

care to share some detailed info on this for those who are competent???? I'd really like to know

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

care to share some detailed info on this for those who are competent???? I'd really like to know </TD></TR></TABLE>

EGR Wiring Info

USDM wire colors are the same as JDM.

Connector colors means that when looking at the connector (wire pointing towards you) that the way they should line up (From left to right)

<FONT SIZE="4">OBD1</FONT>

EGR lift valve solenoid
(The connector colors, From left to right) BLK/YEL and RED

Sensor Voltage - BLK/YEL - goes to A25
ECU trigger - RED - goes to A11.

EGR Lift Sensor (the actual EGR on the intake manifold)
(The connector colors, From left to right) WHT/BLK, GRN/WHT, and RED/WHT

ECU trigger - WHT/BLK - goes to D12
Sensor ground - GRN/WHT - goes to D22
Sensor voltage - RED/WHT - goes to D19 or A25

<FONT SIZE="4">OBD2</FONT>

EGR lift valve solenoid
(The connector colors, From left to right) BLK/YEL (ORG harness side) and RED (BLK/YEL harness side)

ECU trigger - BLK/YEL - goes to A7
Sensor Voltage - RED - goes to Key switched power.

EGR Lift Sensor (the actual EGR on the intake manifold)
(The connector colors, From left to right) WHT/BLK, GRN/BLK, and YEL/BLU

ECU trigger - WHT/BLK - goes to D9
Sensor ground - GRN/BLK - goes to D11
Sensor voltage - YEL/BLU - goes to D10

OBD1 vacuum diagram


OBD2 vacuum diagram



Theory behind EGR wiring and sensors.

The honda system is pretty simple. You have 5 wires in total. You have the EGR control solenoid (12v supplied and ground supplied by the ECU) and the EGR lift sensor (works like a Map/TPS sensor, 5v sensor voltage, ground, and tracing signal that goes to the ECU. Depending on vacuum given to the egr, the voltage will raise or fall). The code 12 is triggered by the Lift sensor, not the control solenoid. When the conditions are right (warm engine, closed loop, right rpm/load READ: cruising), the ECU sends a pre-program signal to the control solenoid to open. Now this is where the lift sensor comes into play. If the EGR is not opening/not opening enough/opening too much, the ecu will know because the lift sensor tells the ECU where the EGR position is. The ECU will use that reading to compare it to the position it should be. If they do not match (three mis-matches will set a code), the ECU will light the CEL (MIL) for trouble code 12.


Now, making it work on a hybrid. Of course, the H22a should have the EGR (the lift sensor is on top of the EGR). I have found it is best to use a EGR control solenoid (with vacuum canister from OBD1) from a Accord, Prelude, and VX civic.

 

i'm running a chipped p28 with my swap would the lack of a properly running egr sensor cause the engine to run rich?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm running a chipped p28 with my swap would the lack of a properly running egr sensor cause the engine to run rich?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, if the chip is tuned right, it will run and feel stock. A h22a 99 EX I tuned gets 31mpg (70% highway, other time city).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integrator43 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Katman, i am in the same boat as you. Currently dealing with an H22 in a 95 Accord. It consistently pulls code 12, and here is the kicker....... it also pulls code 36. This is a JDM P13 automatic ECU. nowhere can i find any info regarding a Code 36, do you have anything to share regasrding this issue? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I recently did a h22a swap in an accord, and it did the same thing but instead of EGR it was knock cause the sensor was broke but the 36 code also flashed to.After doing some research on that I found out that 36 is from the all wheels sterring casrs they did have those in Japan I some models, Once you clear the EGR code the 36 will go away to.Don't know why it does it but I do know if everything is hooker up then the 36 will never flash only does it when another code is flashing

 

damn! detailed info I was lookin for - thanks tgixxer!

posting this on my tech site

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn! detailed info I was lookin for - thanks tgixxer!

posting this on my tech site

</TD></TR></TABLE>

No problem. You want the pics without the watermarks?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No problem. You want the pics without the watermarks?</TD></TR></TABLE>

sure!
if you wanna email them to me: katman@ff-squad.com


thanks meng!

 

well i found more info on the code 36. people have told me it is a code for "traction control" on the JDM units. so is this like the USDM ATTS?? Can it be DE-programmed??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integrator43 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i found more info on the code 36. people have told me it is a code for "traction control" on the JDM units. so is this like the USDM ATTS?? Can it be DE-programmed??</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe if you have the ecu reprogrammed possibly with a 5speed program it should alleviate code 36...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I believe if you have the ecu reprogrammed possibly with a 5speed program it should alleviate code 36...</TD></TR></TABLE>
do you have time to do this (and how much)or is jason siebels keeping you too busy at work?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integrator43 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
do you have time to do this (and how much)or is jason siebels keeping you too busy at work? </TD></TR></TABLE>

hah..yea I have time to reprogram a P13, IM me

Jason Siebels has 0 authority over me! haha...Romero keeps me busy tho!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

EGR Wiring Info

USDM wire colors are the same as JDM.

Connector colors means that when looking at the connector (wire pointing towards you) that the way they should line up (From left to right)

<FONT SIZE="4">OBD1</FONT>

EGR lift valve solenoid
(The connector colors, From left to right) BLK/YEL and RED

Sensor Voltage - BLK/YEL - goes to A25
ECU trigger - RED - goes to A11.

EGR Lift Sensor (the actual EGR on the intake manifold)
(The connector colors, From left to right) WHT/BLK, GRN/WHT, and RED/WHT

ECU trigger - WHT/BLK - goes to D12
Sensor ground - GRN/WHT - goes to D22
Sensor voltage - RED/WHT - goes to D19 or A25

<FONT SIZE="4">OBD2</FONT>

EGR lift valve solenoid
(The connector colors, From left to right) BLK/YEL (ORG harness side) and RED (BLK/YEL harness side)

ECU trigger - BLK/YEL - goes to A7
Sensor Voltage - RED - goes to Key switched power.

EGR Lift Sensor (the actual EGR on the intake manifold)
(The connector colors, From left to right) WHT/BLK, GRN/BLK, and YEL/BLU

ECU trigger - WHT/BLK - goes to D9
Sensor ground - GRN/BLK - goes to D11
Sensor voltage - YEL/BLU - goes to D10

OBD1 vacuum diagram


OBD2 vacuum diagram



Theory behind EGR wiring and sensors.

The honda system is pretty simple. You have 5 wires in total. You have the EGR control solenoid (12v supplied and ground supplied by the ECU) and the EGR lift sensor (works like a Map/TPS sensor, 5v sensor voltage, ground, and tracing signal that goes to the ECU. Depending on vacuum given to the egr, the voltage will raise or fall). The code 12 is triggered by the Lift sensor, not the control solenoid. When the conditions are right (warm engine, closed loop, right rpm/load READ: cruising), the ECU sends a pre-program signal to the control solenoid to open. Now this is where the lift sensor comes into play. If the EGR is not opening/not opening enough/opening too much, the ecu will know because the lift sensor tells the ECU where the EGR position is. The ECU will use that reading to compare it to the position it should be. If they do not match (three mis-matches will set a code), the ECU will light the CEL (MIL) for trouble code 12.


Now, making it work on a hybrid. Of course, the H22a should have the EGR (the lift sensor is on top of the EGR). I have found it is best to use a EGR control solenoid (with vacuum canister from OBD1) from a Accord, Prelude, and VX civic.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Stop showing off.

 

 

thumb up

 

i am working on this same issue...

sorry page didnt load completely 3 times

 

bump for those H22 swappers with code 12 / EGR issues..