Aight, I wasn't wantin' to do them JUST yet, but it seems my car feels it's time. So at 222K it's time to do dem brakes. I wanna work the front first. The only thing I can find are remanned calipers (one piston) from like autozone and napa and nopi. All the other places I haven't seen anything. I saw a thread on fastbrakes, and went there, but didn't have much luck. The site wasn't working properly. So I need help finding new front brake calipers. I'm not really caring about show, because I plan for this car to be on the track/performance more than in shows for looks. Otherwise, here's what I plan to do...

CAR:
1991 Honda Civic Hatch
Engine: D15 for now, B18B1 in the end

FRONT:
Calipers: ?Help?
Rotors: Powerslot slotted
Pads: Hawk
Lines: SS Goodridge

REAR:
Calipers: Probably stock 94/97 teggy
Rotors: OEM teggy (cuz it's only like 30% of braking anyways)
Pads: Hawk
Lines: NEW OEM teggy

OTHER ESSENTIALS:
Fluid: DOT 4
Valve: NEW OEM Teggy
Master Cyl: NEW OEM 91 civic

BTW: Upgrade is due to my last mountain run of having the pedal drop to the floor after about 15 minutes of hard stop/go. No damage, no injuries

All help thanked and welcomed. DID SEARCH btw...

 

Front:

calipers - rebuilt stock
rotors - autozone blanks
pads - hawk hps
lines - ss, look for ones that are coated

rear - 90-93 integra have a bigger piston than others 90-00 integra/civic/crx
rotors - autozone
pads - oem, hawk hps
lines - same as above

prop. valve - 40/40 non-abs
master cylinder - 90-91 civic ex or other variations (non-integra)

 

Brake System get a 15/16 MC out of a 4dr EX, or go with a 90-93 non-abs booster and MC, get some nice racing fluid (super blue, etc), MC sets up for future brake upgrades.

Front:
stock rebuild calipers
Pads
SS lines (slight improvement, watch for rubbing issues)
Rotors are a waste I did them no real help
(future get some 90-91 4dr EX spindles (can use DA but give camber issues if not lowered), ITR or Accord wagon calipers, redrilled prelude rotors)

Rear:
90-93 DA rear disc swap
SS lines

 

Nice, it's gator vs. toad.... Anyways, thanks for the input. Hope to see more comin'...

 

alright, 90-93 integra or 90-91 civic EX knuckles, calipers and rotors.
SS line, brembo blanks rotors, axxis pads.
integra rear disk brakes, SS lines, Axxis pads, Motul or ATE fluid
15/16 MC, 40/40 prop valve, MC brace.
the car will stop on a dime and have great pedal feel.
stan

 

I would have thought that slotted rotors would be better than blanks...?

 

My .02.

Fronts:
-EX knuckles 10.3 inch with TEG/EX calipers
-Hawk HPS pads
-Autozone blank rotors
-SS lines
-EX M/C

Rears:
-OEM Honda drums and shoes

Good fluid and you are set. This is pretty much my setup minus the SS lines and 15/16 M/C. Im happy with it for now. The best part is that its all OEM Honda so you can get parts easily. BTW before going with the Autozone rotors I researched H-T to find out more info. Alot of the ITR guys recommend them highly. HTH

 

Questions:

SS Lines. Anyone got any companies? Or is all fair n love/war? I was considering goodridge cuz I can pick them up just up the street or anywhere online. They worthy?

Rotors. I really am shocked the blanks get better ratings. Can anyone explain why they'd be better than slotted? Or are the slotted just more costly, and wear pads quicker due to such a lightweight car? I LOVE the style from them, but hell money and quality over rice/unneccesary components...

 

Oh, and does anyone have any stopping distances or way of grading brake fade? Would REALLY like to hear cuz I'm probably doin' all or part of the brake upgrade BY this weekend. most likely by this weekend I'll just change out fluid, MC, and SS lines. I've gotta drive up to NJ. I'll take a look at the calipers and debate over whether to change them out now or hold off.

 

Slotted or Drilled rotor tend to crack under heat. And the pads can wear fast. The money that you will put into them aren't really worth the money. If you have to have some holes in your rotors though go with the slotted not the drilled. Also these types of rotors were used when brake pads would give of gas and hit the vapor to get out faster but brake pads don't have that problem like the old ones.

 

I know of the drilled vs. slotted, hence why I'm shooting for slotted. Thanks anyways though, but I thought the slots were 50% releasing the gas and 50% releasing heatbuildup (less material) ? Perhaps I'm wrong. Well, actually isn't it more like 30% for heatloss? LoL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JokerTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know of the drilled vs. slotted, hence why I'm shooting for slotted. Thanks anyways though, but I thought the slots were 50% releasing the gas and 50% releasing heatbuildup (less material) ? Perhaps I'm wrong. Well, actually isn't it more like 30% for heatloss? LoL</TD></TR></TABLE>
why do you need slotted rotors again?

 

yeah, i took these guys advice and held off on the slotted rotors. i figured they'd be great for the track but hey, may aswell stick with what always works huh?

front:
brembo oem spec rotors
prostop ceramic pads
oem, rebuilt calipers
oem lines (need to do those next with SS)

rear:
honda drums and shoes (original stuff)

 

My planned setup up front is, and i pray it works, cause i have a small fortune in it..
90 ex knuckles, new berings, and lower ball joints
90-93 napa rotors
90-93 calipers
91 Si 15/16 master
90-93 OEM pads

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zyntax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, i took these guys advice and held off on the slotted rotors. i figured they'd be great for the track but hey, may aswell stick with what always works huh?

front:
brembo oem spec rotors
prostop ceramic pads
oem, rebuilt calipers
oem lines (need to do those next with SS)

rear:
honda drums and shoes (original stuff)</TD></TR></TABLE>Well, the rear is DEF goin' disc. It's for personal wet-top-sli...uh...nevermind. I just trust them more

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why do you need slotted rotors again?</TD></TR></TABLE>ANYTHING to help keep them cooler. Every little bit helps, right?

 

Sorry to bring back up the thread, but I need some answers. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place or wrong places. Where/How can I find that it's a 40/40 prop valve and a 15/16 MC. I'm trying to expand my knowledge on brakes...so help me out without flame. My brakes definitly need to run cooler. As of now after about 4-5 long/hard/60-0mph stops...it gets hot to the point I can push the pedal to the max with lightly slowing me down...nothing more. It's time to change.

DEF changing:
rear disc out of 90-93 teg
ss lines front/rear
DOT 4/racing brake fluid
hawk pads (F/R)

That's all that's DEFINITE

but PLEASE show me how to find the right MC and Prop valve. Thanks everyone.

 

not to post-*****...but I'm also highly considering brembo blanks (actually, that's definite) but I am still in consideration of calipers. HIGHLY considering just reman from Autozone or somethin'.

 

I'm using remans for calipers... from Autozone. My car sat for over a year and they still work fantastic. I have slotted/drilled rotors on the front and Si blanks out back. 90 'Teg proportioning valve and still trying to get braided lines for my rear disc swapped EX.

 

I plan to use the raman cals. I've heard that our cars are outstanding at stopping due to the lightweight on stocks. But hey, if there's better (depending by how much and $$) I may consider...

Slotted and drilled I considered, but I've heard they have very little affect and are not quite worth the cash. Drilled I'll never run due to cracking issues I've heard of in the past. Plus, if you ever scratch them, good luck with resurfacing.

As for the prop valve out of the teg...is there anything special about those I should watch for or just take the one from whatever donar I use for rear discs?

Braided lines are def. for the front, but for the rear, shouldn't you just be able to get straight up braided lines out of (or ordered for) the donor teggy? Or should SS lines for a regular civic hatch (even with drums) work?

Fill me in if wrong, I'm just trying to make sure I have excellent understanding and avoid avoidable costs.

 

I am hunting now for the prop valve and master cylinder. Doesn't the master cylinder need to be changed instead of stock 91? Because the rear will now need less fluid pressure to the brakes since it's going from drums to discs. Right? And the prop valve; when I go to autozone, what do I need to tell them I want a valve out of? Any help? The rest of the setup is planned, decided, and simply awaiting me to go pick it up. Just need help on mas cyl and prop valve. Thanks.

BTW-Rear = 90-93 teg disc swap.


Modified by JokerTypeR at 3:37 PM 4/24/2005

 

91 STD
what i have
civic SI calipers *whole hubs needed for swap*
brembo blanks
Hawk pads

rear
drums
new pads
in great shape

DOT 4

what i have still waiting
15/16

what i want
rear disks
prop vavle



Modified by Ace$nyper at 2:31 PM 4/24/2005

 

Did hunt online at autozone.com and I couldn't find anything called a proportioning valve. However, they DID have a proportioning valve BRACKET (I searched 91 teg). WHAT ******!!!! They've turned into a game called "find the missing part" I swear...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JokerTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Braided lines are def. for the front, but for the rear, shouldn't you just be able to get straight up braided lines out of (or ordered for) the donor teggy? Or should SS lines for a regular civic hatch (even with drums) work?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need the soft lines for a car with rear discs, because the fittings for drums vs. discs are different.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JokerTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am hunting now for the prop valve and master cylinder. Doesn't the master cylinder need to be changed instead of stock? Because the rear will now need fluid pressure to the brakes since it's going from drums to discs. Right? And the prop valve; when I go to autozone, what do I need to tell them I want a valve out of? Any help? The rest of the setup is planned, decided, and simply awaiting me to go pick it up. Just need help on mas cyl and prop valve. Thanks.

BTW-Rear = 90-93 teg disc swap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The 15/16" MC isn't a 100% necessary piece if you're staying with the stock-sized front calipers, but it does make a marked improvement in pedal feel over your stock 13/16" MC, so it is a nice upgrade to have. An in-between option is the 7/8" MC from a '90-91 CRX Si.

You can't get a proportioning valve from AutoZone AFAIK. You have to pull it from a junkyard car. The valve that you want will depend on your setup. If you're sticking with 9.5" front brakes, go with a '90-91 CRX Si prop valve or '92-95 Civic Si (non-ABS) valve. If you're upgrading to 10.3" fronts, go with a '90-93 Integra (non-ABS) valve, or a '94+ Integra RS valve.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ace$nyper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SI calipers</TD></TR></TABLE>
Si what? Civic or CRX?

And what car do you have?

Please be more specific when listing your setup. If you have a DX/LX, and swapped Civic Si calipers, then you wasted your time because they are the same. If you swapped '90-91 CRX Si calipers, then it would be an upgrade.

 

How hard and costly is it to step up to the 10.3" front rotors? And what do I pull them from? I was planning to stick to the 9.5", but due to much heat buildup the 10.3" may be a consideration...

THIS is what (as of now) I had planned

9.5" front blanks
reman 91 hatch front rots
SS lines front
Reman 91 hatch front cals
Hawk pads front
90-93 teg rear disc
90-93 (matching) blank rots
90-93 (matching) ramn cals
Hawk pads rear
prop valve (not sure HOW to check the size or where to find the difference, someone please help?)
90-93 (matching) reman mas cyl
NEW rubber lines rear