Hey guys,
THis is posted in the integra forum as this is a question for my friends car.

Ok, I just tried bleeding the brakes again and there is still a tremendous amount of fade in the pedal.

Someone explain bleeding brakes to me please.

Do you leave the mc cap on when you bleed?

What I was doing was bleeding from the right rear to left rear to right front to left front. My buddy was pressing in the pedal 5 times then holding and I would undo the banjo until some fluid dripped out. I didn't hear any air come out. Then I would tighten up the banjo and move onto the next one. We left the mc cap off.

Someone help.

Thanks.

 

mc cap should be off, and it should remain constantly full. this is a crucial step. also, you should have the line that goes from the bleeder screw to the container of fluid full of fluid the entire time, otherwise it can suck air back up into the system. also check to see if its leaking anywhere

 

the banjo? don't use that to bleed the brakes

use the bleeder screw, its got a little rubber cap on it, can't miss it

 

holy **** you don't use the banjo to bleed the brakes? where is the bleeder screw?
i'll look at helms now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">holy **** you don't use the banjo to bleed the brakes? where is the bleeder screw?
i'll look at helms now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, its ok

it is right next to the banjo fitting, looks like...well...a bleeder screw, just take off the rubber cap and you'll see a hollow bolt with a hole in the top, just unscrew a LITTLE BIT, just until fluid comes out,

other than that it seems like you and your buddy are doing it correctly, but I have some other tips if you need em

 

http://www.team3s.com/~egross/...8.jpg

Its the little thing with the orange sealant on the thread and the black cap on it. This pic isnt from a Honda, but the bleeder screw will still look the same. You dont need to remove the screw, just crack it open.

 

litterbox:

Take that little black rubber cap off, and run it over to home depot. Purchase some clear tubing that is about the same inner diameter (get the 10ft bundle for $2). Cut the tubing into 4 equal length pieces, and put one on each caliper bleeder nipple (where the black rubber cap came off). Next remove the fluid reservoir cap, and try to soak up all the dirty fluid w/ some rags (or just spoon it out). Now fill the reservoir with fresh clean fluid (leave the cap off). Then grab a medium size glass jar (that you can see through), and fill it 1 inch deep with new clean brake fluid. Go to the first wheel (check helms for proper sequence since they are different w/ different hondas) and place the loose end of the tube into the brake fluid. Now have your friend pump up the pressure in the brakes and then hold down on the pedal (even if it drops to the floor). Once he says ready, you open the bleeder valve with your 10mm open end wrench and let the fluid/bubbles out into the tube. As soon as you SEE the fluid stop moving in the tube, tighten the bleeder valve. Then tell your friend to let off the brake pedal, and pump up the pressure again. Make sure you check out the fluid level in the reservoir every so many bleeds (it drops pretty fast). If the reservoir gets too low it will suck air, and you will have to start all over again. Repeat this step until there are NO bubbles of any size (this may take over 20 bleeds), and you see that the fluid is coming out clean, clear & new. Next, grab your jar of dirty nasty fluid & move on to the next wheel. Once you do all four, go back around and bleed them each 2 or 3 more times to check for bubbles.

Good luck....

***edit: hey, this is my 1000th post***

 

i know i wasnt asking how to do bleed brakes but my brakes need to be bleed and replaced.

thanks for the right up, i now can do it properly.
-sean

 

You guys are awesome. I bled each side 5 times and now the car stops perfectly.

 

New Scenerio:

This weekend I'm replacing all 4 brake lines with SS brake lines on my car. (the stuff above was from my budddy's teg) Any tips on that? I'm gonna drain all the brake fluid out of the entire system before I swap lines. I'll also get some flared wrenches and then I'll do what 94eg! said.

Any other advice?

 

make sure u keep the MS filled up at alltimes, and doesnt go dry, if it get bubbles in it , u have to do it over again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vtecin94dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure u keep the MS filled up at alltimes, and doesnt go dry, if it get bubbles in it , u have to do it over again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well won't I have to drain the mc completely to swap the lines? That's what I'll do, and when that's done I'll get rid of all the air in the lines.

 

when i put ss lines on my car i just soaked up the fluid in the mc and let the rest of the fluid run out when i loosened the line,

the mc went dry of course, and it took longer than normal to bleed the system afterwards, but it wasn't a big deal. i didn't see the point in keeping the mc full if the fluid was just going to run out each time i unbolted the lines

flare wrenches are essential too

btw: ss lines didn't do **** for brake feel, which is why i switched out the stock lines...i wanted a stiffer pedal...i felt no change though...waste of time imho, b/c the stock lines are much more durable

edit: one more thing, if you use an aquarium check valve (cheap plastic, $1.99 from any pet store) you can bleed the system by yourself, because you won't need to loosen and tighten the bleed screw as someone else pumps the pedal




Modified by BeerMan at 3:41 PM 2/11/2005