2.09.2005 Update
Well, I changed the tranny fluid with penzoil syncromesh fluid and it does feel better but still grinds. It just dosn't grind as bad as it did before. I changed it on a level surface so it was done correctly.

I was also playing around by shifting while the car was off and 1-4 sound different. When I shift to 5th, its makes this extra sound that sounds like its coming from either under the shifter or around the area where the shift arm connects to the tranny, but I guess it might be just coming from the tranny. I just thought I would not that.

Also, I guess something happened to my speed sensor as when I put my sensor back in, the speed on the cluster stays at 0 and never moves. I read a lot of posts that it might be a dirty connector harness, so I cleaned it, and it was like that very light bluish green residue in it, and I cleaned it all out and was pretty sure all will be well now, but it still dosn't work.

So now, 5th sucks, no speed sensor and no more vtec because it needs to know the speed I love how much this engine loves me. The only thing that I have done to the speed sensor is removed it to use that whole to pour tranny oil in. Im pretty sure the speed sensor should be ok. I mean the outter bracket did crack, but I fixed that. All it does is hold the sensor to the tranny though, so if its fixed appearance wise, I don't see how it would mess up the sensor. I did notice once that it stayed at zero, then when I got to a light and was waiting at a complete stop, the tach speed started randomly jumping around, and then it kinda worked for a second, then it went back to not working

So now we're to two problems:
1 - 5th gear still grinds after syncromesh fluid oil change
2 - Something about the speed sensor isn't wroking right as it stays at 0 mph

__________________________________________________ _________________
Origional post:

Well, first off, YAY

Basicly, I was driving Saturday, everything was fine. Didn't mis stift or anything. Then I shift from 4th to 5th normally, and I get a little grind. I'm like arright, maybe I didn't step on the clutch hard enough or something.

So I keep going, then it gets worse. So, people always say I baby the car too much as I usually shift at 3.5K rpm's and because an ITR revs so hard, I'm hurting the engine by shifting so early. So, I take the car to 5K and shift, grinds harder. So I'm like so overjoyed that my 5th gear grinds with only about 35K miles on a completely stock engine. Only mods are Intake, and exhaust. Engine is completely stock internals.

So experiment time. I shift at 3.5-4Krpm's sequentially. 1-2-3-4-grind-5. If I shift 1-2-3-4-double clutch neutral-5, it goes in perfectly quiet, no grind. But, if I go 1-2-3-4-neutral, then coast for a while in neutral at a constant speed, after rpm's usually drop to about 1K then shift to 5th, it grinds.

So, if all my searching is correct, I'm soo overjoyed that it seems like its the 5th gear syncro. Is that correct? Is there only one syncro or is it multiple syncros that must be replaced. All other gears are fine. And 5th is fine after the grind in. Dosn't pop out or anything.

I just purchased this swap in an EK from a previous owner and havn't even had my second oil change yet. I've had the car about 2.5K miles only I replace the motor oil and tranny oil with all honda fluids when I first got it. So thats 2.5K miles on new oil only since I had the car.

So, I'm trying to see how much it would cost to fix the tranny? Parts and labor?
(I'm located in Maryland so MD/DC/VA shops that do work would help if anybody knows of one. I'm guessing dealership is out the question as they wanted about 500.00 just to replace a clutch not including parts)

How fast it usaually takes as its my daily driver so show week days = hard time getting to work

Is it better to fix my 5th syncro or just get a new tranny?
(It seems that JDM ITR trannies go for about 1000-1500)

If I open the tranny up, what parts should I also replace?
(So far, all I know is to buy a 5th Gear syncro and tranny oil for when the tranny is reassembled. Anything else)

Where can I get these parts from for a really good price?
(So far I only know if acuraautomotiveparts.org)

This post is by no means a bashing of ITR motor or their owners, its just me asking for help.


Modified by kay_animation at 2:27 PM 2/7/2005

The tranny was always the most feared thing that I hated to break. It costs the most of all the other parts. A bent rod is nothing compaired to a simple syncro going bad. Or at least it looks that way to me.

I was never going to sale the car. I'll go ahead and remove that now. It was just me over exagerating and wasn't meant to be taken seriously.

But one thing that came to mind is that I changed the tranny oil on a sloped garage by jacking the front of the car only pretty high. Therefore I think the tranny was not really filled with oil as the car was on a slope and oil levels aren't reaching teh 5th gear correctly as stated before.

Therefore when I go home tonight, I will change the fluid with syncromesh fluid on a level surface and hope and pray that that was the problem. If it does, I have to think of something nice to do for you guys


Modified by kay_animation at 2:27 PM 2/7/2005


Modified by kay_animation at 5:48 AM 2/9/2005

 

My 5th grinds when i put it on fast but i was low on fluid make sure the fluid is topped off

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99 TYPE R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My 5th grinds when i put it on fast but i was low on fluid make sure the fluid is topped off</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alright, I'll try that. I guess the fight is leaving me for modding. I was sooo ready to just sell everything and just bus it to work every day.

 

And if the fluid is topped off, you may want to try a heavier weight tranny fluid... I know there is several Archived posts about GM Syncromesh, etc... Definitely worth a try before you go out and spend another $1,000 or so on a new tranny...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kay_animation &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I guess I'm learning that the ITR engine is great for a racer/track project secondary car but for daily driver, it just dosn't work out.

Do ITR parts break this often? If so, the sad fact may be that an ITR just isn't for me and I need a softer car like a KIA or something.
(Well not a KIA but maybe I just need a completely stock car that has some sort of warrenty from a dealership)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

...the transmission and the motor are two separate machines: a 5th gear synchro problem says absolutely nothing about the reliability of an engine.

maybe you should buy a kia.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by artifex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

...the transmission and the motor are two separate machines: a 5th gear synchro problem says absolutely nothing about the reliability of an engine.

maybe you should buy a kia.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Of course. But one is only as good as the other and vise versa and stock for stock, it seems to have some special cases. I agree that they are two different "entities" but thats like saying a persons muscles has nothing to do with a persons brain in overall body evaluations.

Sure the muscles and the brain are different "entities" but a brain telling a broken muscle to move still renders an end result of a paralized person correct?

Therefore, I'm back to my origional saying that overall reliablility is questionable.

Or can the engine "machine" drive the car alone

No anger involved, just my reasoning. Not trying to start battles, just trying to shift to 5th with no problems.

 

Replacing the 5th gear synchro requires replacing the reverse synchro as well as the 5th-reverse synchro hub & sleeve. It all comes together as a single part number. It's roughly $140 for the parts.

If you're feeling good, then you can also replace the input shaft bearing and seal, the mainshaft bearing, and the needle bearings on the end of the mainshaft.

If you were local to me, I'd have you fixed up in a jiff.

 

check the fluid first man. if that isn't it def try changing it out with something thicker. then go from there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Replacing the 5th gear synchro requires replacing the reverse synchro as well as the 5th-reverse synchro hub & sleeve. It all comes together as a single part number. It's roughly $140 for the parts.

If you're feeling good, then you can also replace the input shaft bearing and seal, the mainshaft bearing, and the needle bearings on the end of the mainshaft.

If you were local to me, I'd have you fixed up in a jiff.</TD></TR></TABLE>

OMG, I need more people like you around here

It kinda sucks cause all this happened all while I was already gathering parts just to convert the engine to true obd2a for emissions. So I have parts coming from all over the place and now this.

But just to go back to the website I have grown quite fond of, http://acuraautomotiveparts.org/ Which part numbers

MT COUNTERSHAFT (2)


MT MAINSHAFT

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the fluid first man. if that isn't it def try changing it out with something thicker. then go from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Of course, I'm at work right now, so this will be done as soon as I get home. I guess I'm just looking at the worse case if this dosn't work and I have to change the syncros. Just trying to get a total ballpark price so I can budget accordingly.

 

well just know the most you have to spend is 1500 for a fully tranny rebuild. haha, soo in your case your probably looking around 400-500 most??

Do you have the know how to drop the tranny yourself?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well just know the most you have to spend is 1500 for a fully tranny rebuild. haha, soo in your case your probably looking around 400-500 most??

Do you have the know how to drop the tranny yourself?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I have replaced clutches many times but I was reading about replacing gears and syncros and it looks a little complicated and uses tools I havn't used before. Like the feeler measurement tool. So I don't think I can do much after I take the tranny out.

I also noticed your in Maryland. Do you know any place that is very good with work that can do it?

 

Hello there the same thing used to happen me when i first bought the car about 6 months ago its a 97 jdm itr i didnt really think much of it it only happened when i was going fast and then changing it used to grind. but then i was getting a new clutch and 4.9 final drive fitted and we had to strip the gear box and cleaned it out installed it again and put in new gear box oil and it was fine then didnt happen again until about 3 days ago so i had a word with my mechanic and he said i just needed to change the gear box oil again as it only happens when the oil is very warm. so i am installing a kaaz 1.5 way lsd next week with kaaz oil so it shoul be fine after that. hopefully anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kay_animation &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sure the muscles and the brain are different "entities" but a brain telling a broken muscle to move still renders an end result of a paralized person correct?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I see what you're getting at, but one can't simply spend a miniscule amount of money and change their muscle. your car is far from paralyzed, it grinds a bit when you shift into fifth. from your first post (quoted earlier), you said the engine specifically was not reliable. i was just pointing out that the two are separate, and you are not having an engine problem.

the damage in question again speaks nothing of the reliability of honda parts, it only speaks of the apparent misuse/possible abuse the transmission was subjected to before you bought it.

regardless, the stance that you would rather sell your car than fix a relatively small issue that could probably be lived with for quite a while more is outrightly unreasonable, in my opinion.

seriously though, you bought a car with configuration that many people lust after. it has a minor problem. try using GM Synchromesh with Friction Modifier as your fluid. Redline also sells a trans fluid with friction modifier added. that will probably fix your issue, or at least mask it. don't give up on your car so easily.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by artifex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I see what you're getting at, but one can't simply spend a miniscule amount of money and change their muscle. your car is far from paralyzed, it grinds a bit when you shift into fifth. from your first post (quoted earlier), you said the engine specifically was not reliable. i was just pointing out that the two are separate, and you are not having an engine problem.

the damage in question again speaks nothing of the reliability of honda parts, it only speaks of the apparent misuse/possible abuse the transmission was subjected to before you bought it.

regardless, the stance that you would rather sell your car than fix a relatively small issue that could probably be lived with for quite a while more is outrightly unreasonable, in my opinion.

seriously though, you bought a car with configuration that many people lust after. it has a minor problem. try using GM Synchromesh with Friction Modifier as your fluid. Redline also sells a trans fluid with friction modifier added. that will probably fix your issue, or at least mask it. don't give up on your car so easily.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very true. You are 100% correct. I guess because this kinda happened after I called myself buying and installing a whole bunch of new stock maint. parts, it cought me off guard and I was just scared that this kind of thing is just something that goes into owning a high performance engine.

I was not doubting the forces of the ITR, simply worried that I couldn't keep up with them.

The tranny was always the most feared thing that I hated to break. It costs the most of all the other parts. A bent rod is nothing compaired to a simple syncro going bad. Or at least it looks that way to me.

I was never going to sale the car. I'll go ahead and remove that now. It was just me over exagerating and wasn't meant to be taken seriously.

But one thing that came to mind is that I changed the tranny oil on a sloped garage by jacking the front of the car only pretty high. Therefore I think the tranny was not really filled with oil as the car was on a slope and oil levels aren't reaching teh 5th gear correctly as stated before.

Therefore when I go home tonight, I will change the fluid with syncromesh fluid on a level surface and hope and pray that that was the problem. If it does, I have to think of something nice to do for you guys

 

well, I updated this post to try to get some help after I have done the whole syncromesh option. I guess all thats left is to take it apart and dish out a lot of money

 

Replace the VSS. Crack the casing open and replace the 5th-reverse synchro assy, then top it off with Honda MTF. Should be all gravy then.

Spending a couple hundred is better than spending the grand for a new tranny. But hey, if you don't want the broken tranny anymore, I'll buy it and fix it.

 

ha ha, alright, I was just making sure that was the only possible conclusion. I was like, what if I replace all syncro's and it was the shifter grinding on the top of the exhaust or something

 

BTW :: a Civic EK SI speed sensor is the same as the one on an ITR correct?

 

if i am not mistaken, all b-series speed sensors are the same

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kay_animation &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess all thats left is to take it apart and dish out a lot of money </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm in philly... and currently unemployed. where in MD are you?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm in philly... and currently unemployed. where in MD are you?</TD></TR></TABLE>

to one of the best honda tranny guys on HT.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave-ROR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

to one of the best honda tranny guys on HT.</TD></TR></TABLE>

"must be some of that super red locktite"

yeah... i uh, wouldn't go that far buddy...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

"must be some of that super red locktite"

yeah... i uh, wouldn't go that far buddy...</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL you never said that.

You aren't as good as People Mover though at rebuilding trannies.