I dont feel like going much into what EXACTLY happen to my car for it to get this point.

But after 3 shops looking at it and finally the Honda dealership finding the exact problem. However Honda will not do my work for me because of the aftermarket suspension, they can not guarentee that my cars realignment will be good. This is no problem, bc i know a shop that will realign a lowered car. SO now im stuck at either paying some **** place to do it or doing it myself.I need to replace my steering rack. My steering wheel is insanely diffucult to stear. I was wondering if anyone has ever done this or know anything about doing? Is it hard, alot of time consumption? Im pretty sure i will have a garage to do it in, I can get a hold of the steering rack via the dealership.

I have 96 coupe, its been a week n half without my car and quite frankly im ****** tired of towing from place to place and now that i know the exact problem.......Im willing to read up and do it myself. This would have been the 1st time i had a shop work on my car. So im not car stupid, its just snow was the problem at the time at looking under my car.

SO if anyone have done this....please fill me in with some info.
If ya have ne sites or places that may be able to help, throw them

here.

THanks guys.

 

bump......ne one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EliteCivicX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump......ne one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Buy a helms manual?

 

im getting it in 4 hours actually.
u ever did this?

im looking to buy the part offline in liek 10 minutes as well.
just want to know if its gonna be hard or what

 

i dont know anything about the power steering aspect. i imagine you need to drain and flush the fluid. but i have no comment on that.

otherwise, its fairly striaght forward, just gotta unbolt the tie rods and remove it. takes a bit of effort to wiggle it out tho. most annoying part is disconnecting the steering column, gotta get under the dash in the foot pedal area.

theres no special equipment im aware of except getting an alignment afterwards.

 

This all applies to manual steering gearbox (I don't know how to remove Power Steering)

Well, your gonna have to remove your exhaust downpipe, and shift linkage (do a search for "bitch pin"). One of the most difficult parts is seperating the tie rod balljoints from the steering knuckles. You need special tools to do it without damaging them. You could, however, leave them connected to the steering knuckles & just unthread the tie rod ends (#24/27) form the inner rack ends (#1). Once all that stuff is out of the way, disconnect the steering column from the gearbox (column calmps to #7 inside the car). Then remove the 4 bolts that hold it to the car. Your going to have to manuver the rack back & forth to get the gearbox out, but thats it...

Replace the boots on the gearbox if they arn't perfect...
Don't forget to get an alignment after you do this...

 

wow if disconnecting the tie rod is the hardest part that must be easy.....

the part u need is like 10-15 bucks, or u could just heat up the knuckle and hammer it out (being careful you dont burn the rubber on the tie-rod.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaZman69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow if disconnecting the tie rod is the hardest part that must be easy.....

the part u need is like 10-15 bucks, or u could just heat up the knuckle and hammer it out (being careful you dont burn the rubber on the tie-rod.)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, the tie rod ends are the most difficult to keep from ruining. I will have to say the most difficult part will be getting the bitch pin out of the Shift Linkage. You need an 8mm roll pin punch (good luck finding one, but 5/16th inch should work too), and a good swing from a big hammer to get that ****** out. This can be hard to do underneath a car resting on jackstands...

How do you know what part he needs? He never really told us what the problem with the rack was. He never even said what Trim Level his car was...

 

if you arent replacing the outer tie rods, you can get away with not dealing with the outer balljoints and just remove the inner tie rod from the rack. youre going to have to do this anyway, why bother messing up the balljoints, at least your alignment will be somewhat preserved.

you dont have to deal with the bitch pin either. just disconnect it at the shift level end.

feel free to do it the hard way like 94eg says, its up to you.

 

well thank you all for the input.


what had happened was during a little snow storm we had over here i lost control of my car and ****** hit a curb doin like 15mph, bent the steering rack and i need to have it replaced. i just ordered a new one for 75.00 woot woot!

it seems like there is a lot of work here and there, i got to go get my helms manual back today and that should be that.

if i run into any problems ill keep you guys posted for some help, it seems like you all know what ur doing.


BTW- this is for a 96 DX manual car. seems everyone was asking.

 

where do you get a new rack for $75???

 

no i didnt get a brand new one

i got a used one from a salvage yard

 

hey everyone i got a quick question


im getting ready to actually buy this part right now. but im lost for a quick second..................does the pinion automatically come with the steering rack or do i have to ask for it?

im not sure exactly what the pinion is or where it is located.
help if ya can

 

im not sure what SHOULD come with what from a steering rack, but the easiest way to remove the steering rack would be to disconnect the steering spindle. youd have to completely disassemble the gear box to remove the spindle, which doesnt seem reasonable to sell separately. so yeah, it should be included all together.

the inner tie rods however, i wouldnt expect as barebones, but would be gravy if they were in good shape to include.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EliteCivicX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey everyone i got a quick question


im getting ready to actually buy this part right now. but im lost for a quick second..................does the pinion automatically come with the steering rack or do i have to ask for it?

im not sure exactly what the pinion is or where it is located.
help if ya can</TD></TR></TABLE>

The pinion is #7 in the picture.

I have a question for you, when you say "Rack" are you reffering to the whole steering gearbox (#2)? If you are, then the pinion should included because it is pressed into the gearbox, and they would have no reason to remove it.

FYI, when saying "Steering Rack", that only refers to part number 9 in the pic. If you are only purchasing the "steering rack" (#9), you will most likely not be receiving the pinion.

 

thanks for that i didnt know that.

to answer your question i baught the item from http://www.steeringrack.com

this is basically what i baught,https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1129676..however not the shorter version. An OEM one is what i purchased, ill show pics once its in. SO IM confused is that called the "gearbox"? I see what the rack is, i guess i baught the whole gearbox then. bc its that picture, and thats what i purchased.

ON ANOTHER NOTE.......


ok guys....well im waiting for my rack to come in.
but im going to take of the damaged rack as of right now.
however i have some quick q's. If you can help id appreciate it.


IM GOING TO BE REFERING TO THE HELMS MANUAL IN THESE QUESTIONS.
THEY ARE ALL FOR THE MANUAL STEERING RACK INSTALLATION! 96dx

1. in helms, it says that i will need a special tool for removing the ball joint? True.....

2. And it says i need a special tool for seperating the tie-rod ball joint and knuckle.....I only ask bc i think most of you didnt use special tools.

3. Ok, i understand about how to get the "gearbox" out, but then in helms , it goes into "disassembly of the gearbox". Like removing the steering rack end, replacing the pinion, and checking the actual rack's teeth (Section 17-6).....HOWEVER my quesiton is DO I HAVE TO DO ALL THIS? I mean i thought i would just remove the gearbox then install the new one, since this is what i baught. Its not like i JUST BAUGHT the rack and have to go inside and replace that (section 17-13)......im lost.

sorry if i ask to many questions or mixed up my vocab, i just dont want to **** ne thing up. thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EliteCivicX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1. in helms, it says that i will need a special tool for removing the ball joint? True.....

2. And it says i need a special tool for seperating the tie-rod ball joint and knuckle.....I only ask bc i think most of you didnt use special tools.

3. Ok, i understand about how to get the "gearbox" out, but then in helms , it goes into "disassembly of the gearbox". Like removing the steering rack end, replacing the pinion, and checking the actual rack's teeth (Section 17-6).....HOWEVER my quesiton is DO I HAVE TO DO ALL THIS? I mean i thought i would just remove the gearbox then install the new one, since this is what i baught. Its not like i JUST BAUGHT the rack and have to go inside and replace that (section 17-13)......im lost.

sorry if i ask to many questions or mixed up my vocab, i just dont want to **** ne thing up. thanks.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. You do need to use a special tool to separate the tie rod ends from the knuckle. However, you can just separate the tie rods from the rack ends instead. Then you just leave the Tie Rod ends attached to the knuckles when you remove the rack (no separating balljoints).

2. That separator they show in the book is by far the best way to do it without damaging the tie rod balljoint. I have ruined a few ball-joint studs using parts store rental tools. The only trick for balljoint separation that I know, applies to the lower balljoint only.

3. This is going to depend on what parts come with your replacment gearbox. It should have new boots & rack ends installed, so all you will have to do is bolt it in, and thread on your old tie rod ends (that are still installed in the steering knuckles).

 

thanks man you've defiently cleared up a lot for me and helped me out big time!

also do u know where i would get that tool for seperating the balljoints???

 

bump for where to find the tool.....maybe sears?

 

I don't know where to get the honda one (mabey try honda), but I have found knockoffs. I can't tell you what kind of quality they are, but they should get the job done. The main idea behind the honda model is that NOTHING spins directly on the balljoint stud (this is how the stud stays protected). Here is one I found while searching (Honda "Ball Joint Separator") on Google. It's $11.77, and can be bought here.



Another idea would be to just rent a pickle fork to quickly knock the balljoint out, and then buy a new boot & just replace them every time (because they will get damaged doing this)

 

You can get the honda version from SL Honda Parts. It is expensive, however, at $135.08.

 

hey

got a manual or power rack? Im in the middle of doing my manual rack; its not that hard at all, if your comfortable doing work on your car... It's harder then an oil change, but simpler then a transmission rebuild; if removing tie rod ends from the hub, disconnecting the steering rack from the steering column and disconnecting exhaust parts doesnt scare you, then by all means go for it. I wouldnt do it as a first time job or if I had just one car and needed it to get somewhere, though.

There are complications if its a power rack, cause you have to deal with draining the power steering fluid, getting the lines out of the way and disconnected while not wrecking them.

just some things to think about

edit: oops looks like its been well covered..

you can easily disconnect the tie rod ends from the hub by undoing the castle nut, and wacking the side of the tie rod steel housing with a sledge hammer.. it'll pop right out and you wont mess up the treads on the tie rod.

 

Huh, never damaged my ball joints or tie rod ends using a seperator fork. I guess if you get one that's too small that could damage them..

 

Last time I tried the pickle fork, I couldn't get that thing to separate to save my life. I was hammering on it for an hour...

I wish there was a simple trick for the tie rod balljoint, like there is for the Lower balljoint...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Last time I tried the pickle fork, I couldn't get that thing to separate to save my life. I was hammering on it for an hour...

I wish there was a simple trick for the tie rod balljoint, like there is for the Lower balljoint...</TD></TR></TABLE>

there is a simple trick...

1) undo the nut on the bottom of the tie rod end.... remove the nut....

2)pick up sledge hammer

3) wack the side of the steering knuckle where the tie rod end fits into... DONT hit the tie rod end, but hit the steering knuckle as HARD as you can!!!

That bitch will pop right out.... I've got it down to where i get it on the first wack most of the time. THis will work on almost any brand of car....Dont worry about bending/cracking the steering knuckle, its made of forged steel.