mpfi low idle
ok well my car starts but i have to pump gass to get it started and it idles at like 250-500 instead of like 2000 or were ever it should b i should have pics up a lil later any ideas btw car is thowing code 10 and its been sitting 4 like 2 months
Modified by crx90rcr at 6:20 PM 1/30/2005
Modified by crx90rcr at 6:20 PM 1/30/2005
Yea, I was over at his house helpin him get it started. Its a 91 crx dx, the thing is he has the mpfi stuff from a 88 si. So there are some things that dont match up. Where do these things go: Sorry for large pictures, figured we'd be able to tell better this way.
I think this is from the map sensor

This line doesnt seem to hook into anything on this mani, it plugged into to the bottom of the DX mani.

And we had the white connector here hooked up first and it didnt want to idle on its own, when we plugged up the green one it idles but really low. Think this is the IAT sensor.

Thanks in advance for the help. Wanna get this thing up and running
I think this is from the map sensor

This line doesnt seem to hook into anything on this mani, it plugged into to the bottom of the DX mani.

And we had the white connector here hooked up first and it didnt want to idle on its own, when we plugged up the green one it idles but really low. Think this is the IAT sensor.

Thanks in advance for the help. Wanna get this thing up and running
http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/mpfi.html
Plug up the left over hose from the sensor on the firewall of the car. That's what most people do seeing there isn't any place for it to be plugging into the manifold itself.
For my swap, I connected up the clear one to the Intake Air Temperature sensor.
BTW heres a excerpt from the site.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you are swapping the engine and the engine is out of the car then swap the DX harness over to your new engine (Si or ZC). If you are adding MPFI to a DPFI I would try and do this next step with the harness off of the engine.
-Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) wires need to be extended, the TPS is a black sensor on the side of the throttle body, there are 3 wires going to it, extend those, always solder and use heatshrink. On the TPS plug on the DX harness you will see 3 wires going to it, yellow, red, and green, in that order (if you are looking at the top of the clip from left to right on the DX clip). Depin and switch the green and yellow wires around so now the order is green, red, yellow. This is because the DX TPS sensor works in the reverse of the MPFI one, so if you didn't do that your car would think it was at redline when it was suppose to be at idle. So if you have that problem you know you skipped this step.
-Electronic Air Control Valve (EACV) wires need to be extended, the EACV is a rectangular box on the back of the intake manifold, it has 2 wires going to it, solder and heatshrink.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Plug up the left over hose from the sensor on the firewall of the car. That's what most people do seeing there isn't any place for it to be plugging into the manifold itself.
For my swap, I connected up the clear one to the Intake Air Temperature sensor.
BTW heres a excerpt from the site.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you are swapping the engine and the engine is out of the car then swap the DX harness over to your new engine (Si or ZC). If you are adding MPFI to a DPFI I would try and do this next step with the harness off of the engine.
-Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) wires need to be extended, the TPS is a black sensor on the side of the throttle body, there are 3 wires going to it, extend those, always solder and use heatshrink. On the TPS plug on the DX harness you will see 3 wires going to it, yellow, red, and green, in that order (if you are looking at the top of the clip from left to right on the DX clip). Depin and switch the green and yellow wires around so now the order is green, red, yellow. This is because the DX TPS sensor works in the reverse of the MPFI one, so if you didn't do that your car would think it was at redline when it was suppose to be at idle. So if you have that problem you know you skipped this step.
-Electronic Air Control Valve (EACV) wires need to be extended, the EACV is a rectangular box on the back of the intake manifold, it has 2 wires going to it, solder and heatshrink.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea ill c what happens with the clear plug later
that article had nothing to do with my problem
and ill c what happens with pluging off the extra vacume hose
that article had nothing to do with my problem
and ill c what happens with pluging off the extra vacume hose
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now i try to start the car and it runs real bad even when i rev it and its throwing code 10 and 4 wich is ckp crank angle sensor and the iat intake air temp sensor it back fires and now no idle any ideas y it would do this today bt not yesterday
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx90rcr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now i try to start the car and it runs real bad even when i rev it and its throwing code 10 and 4 wich is ckp crank angle sensor and the iat intake air temp sensor it back fires and now no idle any ideas y it would do this today bt not yesterday </TD></TR></TABLE>
Check your wiring. Make sure the pins are nice and tight in the harness. I did my mpfi I was running a 9 once every soo often. Then all the time, I check all my connections, and then double checked the pin. Pin was loose, fixed it, and cleared the code. Just wondering what dizzy and ecu did you use?
Check your wiring. Make sure the pins are nice and tight in the harness. I did my mpfi I was running a 9 once every soo often. Then all the time, I check all my connections, and then double checked the pin. Pin was loose, fixed it, and cleared the code. Just wondering what dizzy and ecu did you use?
pm6 ecu and the dizzy i need with crank angle sensor but i think ur right with the pinns ill go check cuz i broke one so i got one off a focuz and it didnt fit perfict ghetto rig till i have it running to go get a pin
having same probelm also but in civic.. when using the pm6 car runs pefect.. when i put in the pr3 it idles low and dies unless i keep my foot on the gas..after a few minutes of gving it gas it will drive normall untill i let is idle at a stop for more then a few seconds.. lmk that you all think.
Just looked at the pic and it reminded me of the idle problem I'm having.
It sounds VERY similar.
I see a Y8 manifold... does it have a Y8 TB too?
Y8's are OBD-2 so they don't have a FITV.
The FITV pulls up the idle when the engine is cold/cool.
Try a TB with a FITV on it if this is the case.
It sounds VERY similar.
I see a Y8 manifold... does it have a Y8 TB too?
Y8's are OBD-2 so they don't have a FITV.
The FITV pulls up the idle when the engine is cold/cool.
Try a TB with a FITV on it if this is the case.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx90rcr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is off of a 88 si civic but if this is the problem can i make a switch 4 it so it raises tyhe idle while switch is on </TD></TR></TABLE>
you can make a switch to your fan and have it turn on/off when you wont. that might help...would raise your idle for you..
you can make a switch to your fan and have it turn on/off when you wont. that might help...would raise your idle for you..
might try that if it stays that bad but now its not the idle thats screwwed up its the crank angle sensor its throwing a code and makeing timeing weird so its fireing as intake valve is open


