I've been looking around and Swaintech catches my eye, but the fact that the coating is white...doesn't really appeal to me. I'm a function over form guy, but this one I'd just like it to be matte black, matte grey, or matte silver.

Its going on my turbo manifold so it needs to be a quality coating, and it must lower underhood temps A LOT! Let me know if you know anyone you have used that you would recommend or anyone that does great coatings. Thanks

 

JET Hot 2000 degree coating or High Performance Coatings Extreme Coating

http://www.HPcoatings.com/

http://www.jet-hot.com/

 

NIC Industrial Finishing in White City, OR

I decided pretty quick. I'm going to go with them and see how I do.

 

We do our own ceramic coating in house. For the most part, the entire coating industry all use the same coatings. Jet hot trademarked their coating as did swain. You pay for the name, with few exceptions, it's all the same stuff though.

 

I'de have to agree^. I also do my own ceramic coating and after some research I think some of the better marketed coatings are actually not as good or equal to some lesser know ones. Marketing/reputation plays a huge roll in products like this. Especially since you dont see many people actually testing the product, just praise it becasue it didnt flake off or looks pretty, kinda like internet forums $.02

 

HPC

 

I will be ablle to offer a form of thermal hard coatings hopefully in the next 3-4 months that will rival all sprayed coatings. It's a form of PVD(physical vapor depostion) and it's thermal properties will be far greater than anything out in the automotive feild.

 

Tom is a straight up pimp.

 

it really works?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it really works?</TD></TR></TABLE>

its still in RD so i cant say for sure, but the preliminary tests are looking good.
They will only tell me bits of info for now.. Think titanuim nitride coatings with thermal barrier properties.

 

Heres some pics of the thermal barrier i use on my turbo stuff.. It's for ultra high temps and is good till over 1800 degrees.. I actually have to oven cure it at 700 degrees for over an hour.. Or what most shops do is let it cure on the car as their ovens cant reach the required heat..

 

Very nice Tom.

 

Got mine locally done at Replika Machinen (es German da!) and my 2000 degree coating is chipping off like big skin flakes. Dont know if anyone else has had this problem.

Rich

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SJcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Got mine locally done at Replika Machinen (es German da!) and my 2000 degree coating is chipping off like big skin flakes. Dont know if anyone else has had this problem.

Rich</TD></TR></TABLE>
When I do mine they go through a cycle to assure the least amount of contamination possible.. With coatings its very hard to keep the parts free from any contamination.. Flaking usually occurs when the precleaning wasnt sucessful or the wrong coating was used and it got to hot.. When I say contamination I mean something as little as the back side of your hand brushes against the manifold as you go move it, the 1 milisecond that you came in contact with it the oils from your skin transfered onto the part, itw will chip or flake in that area.
The way I do them is I run the parts through a tricloretehene thermal vapor degreaser thats heated to 200 degree's.. (think of a 500 gallon tank of heated brake cleaner that you lower a basket with your parts into) Next we thermal degrease/stress releave the part at 650 degree's for 30 min and allow to cool.
Now i will perform any masking of any areas that are to be free of any coatings.
Next I sandblast the parts with 220 grit alumioxide and blow parts clean and transport to paint.
We now then hang the part from a rack and spray it..
Final step is the oven cure which I load the parts into the oven and bring up slowly to 400 degrees where I cure it there for 30 min, then the oven goes up to 700 where it fully cures there for 1 hr.


Modified by Tbone at 10:38 PM 3/7/2005

 

If performance is the #1 goal, coat the INSIDE of the manifold. That will help keep the heat from soaking into the manifold.

You can also get the combustion chambers, and exhaust ports of the head coated. This helps to keep the heat in the exhaust gasses and out of your engine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Engloid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If performance is the #1 goal, coat the INSIDE of the manifold. That will help keep the heat from soaking into the manifold.

You can also get the combustion chambers, and exhaust ports of the head coated. This helps to keep the heat in the exhaust gasses and out of your engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is correct, if you notice in the pics the inside of the mani as well as the turbo were both coated.. Doing header tubes is a total pain though, Ive done everything from dragging a sponge to spray.. I currently am building a device with a spray nozzle that just sits in the end of a rubber hose that I'll feed through the header tube then start to spray as I drag it through the header

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eLusive ek4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HPC</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree. I have had several manifolds coated by them...

 

HPC

 

Just so you guys know.. we all use pretty much the same stuff.. We all buy from the same manufacturing facility's..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just so you guys know.. we all use pretty much the same stuff.. We all buy from the same manufacturing facility's.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

With most other things to remember aswell, the parts are cheap its the labor and quality you pay for.

Rich

 

The most important part of it is the precleaning as well as the process flow.. Thats why alot of people choose me. I am the only one who touches your parts from start to finish..That way I controll the quality... Plus me being a certified faa inspector insures you that I'm completely **** about stuff..lol
I have use swain and Hcp before I was in the business myself and it was a pleasure to work with them.. My only complaint was the turnaround time was poor.

 

Applying coatings is not rocket science. It's all the same stuff, it all comes from the same manufacturer. Anyone with experience prepping metal for powder coating or paint can ceramic coat as just as well as most of these speciality coating shops.

 

This is true as long as you dont need to hold tolerance... quick question though, do you have an oven that can cure at 700 for over an hour?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is true as long as you dont need to hold tolerance... quick question though, do you have an oven that can cure at 700 for over an hour?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats the kicker... i looked into thermal coatings myself and it wasnt too pricy for the material and tools, but the oven was pretty up there in contrast to basic hand tools and such.

If I was going into business the profit from thermal coating is pretty nice, after the initial setup charge. It'd be kind of nice to do my own in-garage so I wouldnt have to rely on others time.

Rich

 

I have a 5'x2'x2' custom furnace (2000 deg rated) that I use to anneal aluminum tube bundles and do my coatings in. My favorite satin is the Techline Colorguard Titanium and you can oven bake it at 450-500 and post cure it on car.