Omnipower - Marketing to the retards
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okay.. FYI, you can buy this **** @ home depot for a grand total of $4.xx (i know because i've done it before) and home depot is closer to you, no waiting on shipping
wtf is this world coming too?? they took the washer trick into a selling/marketing scheme?!?!? i wouldn't be suprised if people bought it either
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SeanJohn1802 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay.. FYI, you can buy this **** @ home depot for a grand total of $4.xx (i know because i've done it before) and home depot is closer to you, no waiting on shipping
wtf is this world coming too?? they took the washer trick into a selling/marketing scheme?!?!? i wouldn't be suprised if people bought it either</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would not use any fastener i found at home despot on my car, especially a suspension piece. Its crappy hardware, and probably metric grade 8.8 at best - you'll need 10.8 (standard grade 8). Good fasteners are not cheap - and $20 for 4 longer bolts and washers really isnt very high, unless of course the omni hardware is crappy too.
wtf is this world coming too?? they took the washer trick into a selling/marketing scheme?!?!? i wouldn't be suprised if people bought it either</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would not use any fastener i found at home despot on my car, especially a suspension piece. Its crappy hardware, and probably metric grade 8.8 at best - you'll need 10.8 (standard grade 8). Good fasteners are not cheap - and $20 for 4 longer bolts and washers really isnt very high, unless of course the omni hardware is crappy too.
Grade 8 (metric, SAE grades are different for some reason), Northern Tool also carries a pretty good assortment of high grade metric bolts.
EDIT: After a trip to nothern tool, the black plated bolts that I thought were grade 8 were 10.9 .
I'm used to working on my old BMW where all the suspension fasteners are grade 8.8, so I got a bit confused. The BMW parts that superceeded the original parts do tend to be grade 10.9.
Modified by MattP at 12:29 PM 1/13/2005
EDIT: After a trip to nothern tool, the black plated bolts that I thought were grade 8 were 10.9 .
I'm used to working on my old BMW where all the suspension fasteners are grade 8.8, so I got a bit confused. The BMW parts that superceeded the original parts do tend to be grade 10.9.
Modified by MattP at 12:29 PM 1/13/2005
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Yeah it may seem kinda dumb but...If you bought the front camber kit you get the shim kit included (at least I did). Also they seem like high quality bolts. It isn't too expensive (bought a bolt at the dealer lately). Forth, I remember talk about wanting to sell a prepackaged "prelude LMA trick" why...because ppl are too lazy or too afrade to make it themselve (and screw up somehow)...so a rear shim kit doesn't seem too strange 2 me anymore.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .nate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Napa Usually carries high grade bolts
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If you don't have a Napa near by, certain Ace Hardware stores have good selection of grade 8 metric bolts as well.
</TD></TR></TABLE>If you don't have a Napa near by, certain Ace Hardware stores have good selection of grade 8 metric bolts as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by n1div »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have good selection of grade 8 metric bolts as well.
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No such thing - and if they are 'grade 8.8' you dont want them. 10.8.
</TD></TR></TABLE>No such thing - and if they are 'grade 8.8' you dont want them. 10.8.
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From: Stockton, CA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would not use any fastener i found at home despot on my car, especially a suspension piece. Its crappy hardware, and probably metric grade 8.8 at best - you'll need 10.8 (standard grade 8). Good fasteners are not cheap - and $20 for 4 longer bolts and washers really isnt very high, unless of course the omni hardware is crappy too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
your trippin man... i mean, i'm not hatin on omnipower or anything, hell i want the coilover kit . . but this?? home depot bolts work just fine i garuntee you that
I would not use any fastener i found at home despot on my car, especially a suspension piece. Its crappy hardware, and probably metric grade 8.8 at best - you'll need 10.8 (standard grade 8). Good fasteners are not cheap - and $20 for 4 longer bolts and washers really isnt very high, unless of course the omni hardware is crappy too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
your trippin man... i mean, i'm not hatin on omnipower or anything, hell i want the coilover kit . . but this?? home depot bolts work just fine i garuntee you that
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SeanJohn1802 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">home depot bolts work just fine i garuntee you that</TD></TR></TABLE>
They are less than OEM honda (grade 10.8) quality. Have fun with that.
They are less than OEM honda (grade 10.8) quality. Have fun with that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No such thing - and if they are 'grade 8.8' you dont want them. 10.8.</TD></TR></TABLE>
oops yeah I should have clarified as grade 8.8
No such thing - and if they are 'grade 8.8' you dont want them. 10.8.</TD></TR></TABLE>
oops yeah I should have clarified as grade 8.8
If your so worried, I have picked up grade 12.2 (allen bolts) at Lowes. They are always black, & they have quite a few sized (only metric).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tommy69 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Shim kit was known for a while, I'm pretty sure other companies have done the same thing.
Business is business..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep that is entirely true business is business,now if I take asecond here and first ask why anyone would need a shim kit I guess id be all wrong and this guy doesnt know what the hell he's talking about and such.So...why does anyone need a shimkit?to make your wheels stand straight up?Well that aint optimal for anything but going straight and making your expensive tires last longer and do less work,Are you guys modding suspension?Might as well left it stock.
Oh yeah neg camber doesnt eat the inside of your tires toe-in does. im officialy changing my sig to -I dont know sh*t-
Business is business..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep that is entirely true business is business,now if I take asecond here and first ask why anyone would need a shim kit I guess id be all wrong and this guy doesnt know what the hell he's talking about and such.So...why does anyone need a shimkit?to make your wheels stand straight up?Well that aint optimal for anything but going straight and making your expensive tires last longer and do less work,Are you guys modding suspension?Might as well left it stock.
Oh yeah neg camber doesnt eat the inside of your tires toe-in does. im officialy changing my sig to -I dont know sh*t-
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenRacerX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first ask why anyone would need a shim kit I guess id be all wrong and this guy doesnt know what the hell he's talking about and such.So...why does anyone need a shimkit?to make your wheels stand straight up?Well that aint optimal for anything but going straight and making your expensive tires last longer and do less work</TD></TR></TABLE>
wtf are you talking about? Many times taking camber out of the rear suspension is desireable for track use.
wtf are you talking about? Many times taking camber out of the rear suspension is desireable for track use.
this can also be done by changing your tire pressure whats your point?are you following me?Dragracers have their rear wheels standing straight up,Are you a dragRacer then buy spacers buy 2 sets.I have never seen a roadcourse car with 0 rear camber in fact those wheels on any roadrace car have soo much neg camber its nearly ridiculous.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenRacerX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this can also be done by changing your tire pressure whats your point?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its just another tuning tool.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have never seen a roadcourse car with 0 rear camber in fact those wheels on any roadrace car have soo much neg camber its nearly ridiculous.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uh.... no..... you will want less rear camber than front in a FWD car, if the modifications for the class you're running allows those adjustments.
wtfh is your problem?
Its just another tuning tool.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have never seen a roadcourse car with 0 rear camber in fact those wheels on any roadrace car have soo much neg camber its nearly ridiculous.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uh.... no..... you will want less rear camber than front in a FWD car, if the modifications for the class you're running allows those adjustments.
wtfh is your problem?
dude.. I belive that we can both be rite on both topics you know what im talking about rite is a matter of preference and perception,my post are not for you,you obviously have a clue about how it works as do I my post is for people who dont know so wtf is your problem?
I can hardly read your dayum posts with the run on senences and such...
But you should excercise more tact and be clearer about what you're trying to say rather than just saying "this **** sux dont buy it blah blah blah" or else no one will take you seriously. Gross generalizations and blanket statements are 100% useless and dont help anyone.
But you should excercise more tact and be clearer about what you're trying to say rather than just saying "this **** sux dont buy it blah blah blah" or else no one will take you seriously. Gross generalizations and blanket statements are 100% useless and dont help anyone.
I thought this thread was about trying to school some people that dont know on why or why not should they buy spacers to correct neg camber achieved by lowwering their cars,not english class homie,attacking me solves nothing first and makes you look desperate second grosss genralization/blanketstatement ok your smart,i never said anything about anything sucking only that one should question why they need it in the first place.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenRacerX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i never said anything about anything sucking only that one should question why they need it in the first place.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The thread was about whether ppl were being ripped off with this kit...... not whether its needed or not - and its a cheap, easy way to adj rear camber, especially if the class you race in (if you race) does not allow for adjusable control arms
The thread was about whether ppl were being ripped off with this kit...... not whether its needed or not - and its a cheap, easy way to adj rear camber, especially if the class you race in (if you race) does not allow for adjusable control arms
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would not use any fastener i found at home despot on my car, especially a suspension piece. Its crappy hardware, and probably metric grade 8.8 at best - you'll need 10.8 (standard grade 8). Good fasteners are not cheap - and $20 for 4 longer bolts and washers really isnt very high, unless of course the omni hardware is crappy too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
100% correct.
ISO 6.8 = SAE 2
ISO 8.8 = SAE 5 or 120,000 psi minimum
ISO 10.9 = SAE 8 or 150,000 psi minimum
ISO 12.9 = NAS 624-644 National Aerospace Standard or 180,000 psi minimum
Lowes and Home Depot only carry 8.8 in that size, hex bolt. You need to go to a specialty bolt hardware store to find grade 8 (10.9) metric. You will end up paying about the same as the omni power kit.
I would not use any fastener i found at home despot on my car, especially a suspension piece. Its crappy hardware, and probably metric grade 8.8 at best - you'll need 10.8 (standard grade 8). Good fasteners are not cheap - and $20 for 4 longer bolts and washers really isnt very high, unless of course the omni hardware is crappy too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
100% correct.
ISO 6.8 = SAE 2
ISO 8.8 = SAE 5 or 120,000 psi minimum
ISO 10.9 = SAE 8 or 150,000 psi minimum
ISO 12.9 = NAS 624-644 National Aerospace Standard or 180,000 psi minimum
Lowes and Home Depot only carry 8.8 in that size, hex bolt. You need to go to a specialty bolt hardware store to find grade 8 (10.9) metric. You will end up paying about the same as the omni power kit.
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From: Stockton, CA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
100% correct.
ISO 6.8 = SAE 2
ISO 8.8 = SAE 5 or 120,000 psi minimum
ISO 10.9 = SAE 8 or 150,000 psi minimum
ISO 12.9 = NAS 624-644 National Aerospace Standard or 180,000 psi minimum
Lowes and Home Depot only carry 8.8 in that size, hex bolt. You need to go to a specialty bolt hardware store to find grade 8 (10.9) metric. You will end up paying about the same as the omni power kit. </TD></TR></TABLE>
still a waste of money... i mean if you guys buy it for piece of mind, by all means... go ahead..
100% correct.
ISO 6.8 = SAE 2
ISO 8.8 = SAE 5 or 120,000 psi minimum
ISO 10.9 = SAE 8 or 150,000 psi minimum
ISO 12.9 = NAS 624-644 National Aerospace Standard or 180,000 psi minimum
Lowes and Home Depot only carry 8.8 in that size, hex bolt. You need to go to a specialty bolt hardware store to find grade 8 (10.9) metric. You will end up paying about the same as the omni power kit. </TD></TR></TABLE>
still a waste of money... i mean if you guys buy it for piece of mind, by all means... go ahead..





