I mentioned EX front LCA's for the sway but I've heard they don't work. I do not know if they do or not but don't see why they wouldn't.

CTR e-brake lines hook right up with no modification.
Stock brake lines work perfectly up front.
Stock rear LCA's CAN be used (don't waste money on aftermarkets, you've just added a shitload of unsprung weight, 1 pound won't make a difference).
I drove on Azenis for 6 months and decided the wear wasn't worth daily driving and winter was coming up. Good wheels for daily driving are CR-V steelies. I picked mine up from BlackR for $120 shipped.
With wheels/tires/lugnuts, this gets expensive fast and you can have equal performance for less money. If you are doing it for the bling of an extra lug, you need to have your head examined.

Tools needed:

basic socket set and combo wrench set
32mm socket for axle nut
breaker bar
torque wrench (not mandatory)
flat headed screwdriver
vise grips or clamps

This is not a complete How-To. There are common sense things which I left out such as taking everything apart (which I'm sure you can find if you search). The only things I left on were the upper A-arms (yes, bushings aren't as good but those are getting replaced in the spring).


Find a good place to work on it. Inside is best incase anything goes wrong and you can't drive it for a day or two (weather). I put mine on at work on a lift, then the other half at home in my basement garage.




I purchased my CTR 5-lug from H Motors Online and opted for the front sway bar as well. Had it shipped to my house.


Stock DX front brakes


Clamp front brake lines then disconnect. Once you've installed the new brakes, reconnect the line (make sure you torque it correctly or you won't get fluid to the caliper), then remove the clamp. If you don't have a strong enough clamp, use Vise-Grips.


I used the stock Civic brake lines for the front. All you have to do is route them around the bolt with the green arrow.


I bought a full set (5-lug only came with fronts) of CTR shocks/springs from b18c1_powered_si that way I wouldn't be mixing and matching the fronts and rears (all the rear ones I found were unknown mileage). If you install the swaybar up front, you will need CTR, EX, or Si LCA's. If you don't install the swaybar, switch the forks over from the USDM shocks to the JDM* shocks (disregard if not using JDM* shocks). *= JDM, but could also be EX or Si. Can't think of the spring rates off the top of my head, but the stock DX springs have 11 coils and the CTR springs have 10. Ride is definitely rougher with the CTR's, but in no way capable of interfering with dates like all you weenies say). I drew a line by the two different forks to show you the extra space for the swaybar.


Finished with the fronts, now to my house for the rears.


Stock rear drums


Pull this clip off. I stuck a flat head behind the lip on the clip, then jerked on the shaft of the screwdriver to get the clip off (enough laughing). I let all the fluid run out of the rear brakes lines before I started. Before you remove the clip, unscrew the soft brake line from the hard brake line.


For the rear brake lines I used Integra rear lines which I purchased from the local Honda yard.


There are two clips holding on each side of the e-brake lines. Remove these.


Release e-brake and unbolt these two bolts (red dots). Then rotate the lines and pull them out to the side.


When you install the CTR e-brake lines, this is a pictoral side view of the gasket. I used a flat head to get it back in place.


CTR e-brake lines installed. Reverse removal to install.


I went ahead and used a nifty tool my dad had to clean around the studs.


Some of the studs were messed up so I dyed them.


Thats just about all of the details. Make sure you bleed the brakes.

 

 

nice DIY, i did the one for EG good thing u did this one for ek

 

I looked at yours before I bought anything, then took the differences into equation and figured everything out.

 

great explanation...

 

all ya have to do now is get the correct prop. valve & 15/16 master cyl and you dont have pedal fade from the rear

 

I've had an ITR MC/booster/res sitting around I still need to install.

Everyone else w/ 5-lug and stock prop valve said it works fine. Whats the difference in the stock prop valve and an Si prop valve?

 

stock ppv is a 3030 which means more bias towards fronts since rear drums don't have as much stopping force. the si should be a 4040 which makes a HUGE difference. the break balance is night and day, i was driving with my stock dx mc, booster, and ppv for a couple months after doing the 5 lug conversion, finally got to the booster, mc, and ppv the other night and stopping power is 100 times better.

anyways do it right if you are going to do it, and get the type r 1 inch mc, makes it even better then the 15/16th.

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FictioN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock ppv is a 3030 which means more bias towards fronts since rear drums don't have as much stopping force. the si should be a 4040 which makes a HUGE difference. the break balance is night and day, i was driving with my stock dx mc, booster, and ppv for a couple months after doing the 5 lug conversion, finally got to the booster, mc, and ppv the other night and stopping power is 100 times better.

anyways do it right if you are going to do it, and get the type r 1 inch mc, makes it even better then the 15/16th.</TD></TR></TABLE>
for sure stock ppv is 3030? people all the time try to tell me stock 96-98 dx have 4040 ppv's! so i never replaced mine, thats why my pedal feels shitty ill do that all, itr mc, booster and 4040 ppv. thanks

 

the proportioning vavle doesn't have anything to do with pedal feel.

 

hey did you replace your brake booster? I can't get to the upper left bolt on my firewall. Have you had any success extracting the BB firewall nuts? I know I'm nuts. Every day I go out and get under the dash and try a new tooling sequence, Haha. I'm such a nut - I can't find anything that will work on that upper nut. UPPER YOUR NUT. YOUUUU NNUUUUTTT!!!!!!!!!! HaHA Thanks for any response. My whole brake upgrade stymied by a nut.

 

I keep putting aside time to do it but usually wind up on here.

 

what axels did u use?

 

good stuff i'll be doing mine in a few months

 

Advanced axles. You use the axles for 96-00 Civic.

 

right now i have a b18c swap unda tha hood would the b18 axels work on the CTR hubs?

 

Not sure about the whole swap thing (D series fan), but you'll use the axles you would use if it didn't have the 5-lug.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FictioN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock ppv is a 3030 which means more bias towards fronts since rear drums don't have as much stopping force. the si should be a 4040 which makes a HUGE difference. the break balance is night and day, i was driving with my stock dx mc, booster, and ppv for a couple months after doing the 5 lug conversion, finally got to the booster, mc, and ppv the other night and stopping power is 100 times better.

anyways do it right if you are going to do it, and get the type r 1 inch mc, makes it even better then the 15/16th.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's backwards 3030 prop valves have higher rear line pressures, hence the rear wheel lock up issues when rear discs are added.

 

considering i swapped suspension in my 95 civic DX( drum) to 01 itr suspension and brakes, does it matter if i get the prop valve for abs or non abs, considering 2 diff part #'s and..... what yr civic or int. do i get it from...
btw - i looove how my pedal goes to the floor... ... yeah panic stops??? E BRAKE and 1st gear, while closing eyes

 

nice write up...

quesiton can anyone answer this.. are the EK rear trailing arms teh same or similar to integra rear trailing arms??? i have my integra 5 lug suspension about to go on a EK and wanted to know what do i have to change out to get it to bolt up correctly??

also what about the fronts as well?
my 5 lug is from a usdm ITR and im trying to figure otu what i will have to change out to get it to fit on a EK.. thing liek the e brak cables as well...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gsr_Hybrid_theory &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">considering i swapped suspension in my 95 civic DX( drum) to 01 itr suspension and brakes, does it matter if i get the prop valve for abs or non abs, considering 2 diff part #'s and..... what yr civic or int. do i get it from...
btw - i looove how my pedal goes to the floor... ... yeah panic stops??? E BRAKE and 1st gear, while closing eyes </TD></TR></TABLE>

The ABS vs. non-ABS probably has to do with the number of lines and the angles they stick out at. I'm in no way positive about that, but it'd be my best guess.

For pedal pressure, bleed your brakes...a lot. The proportioning valve has nothing to do with pedal pressure, as stated previously. Also make sure you've bench bled the MC prior to installation (just learned that one myself recently ). Which basically involves pumping fluid through the MC to get rid of excess air.

 

Noice!!! subscribing to it!!

 

two questions
For a 2000 ex
What rear brake lines do u use and can u use stock ebrake cables? If the swap doesnt come with ecables which ones would u use?

Thanks for any help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SohcPower &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">two questions
For a 2000 ex
What rear brake lines do u use and can u use stock ebrake cables? If the swap doesnt come with ecables which ones would u use?

Thanks for any help.</TD></TR></TABLE>

bump?? amyone