My Sub Frame tore in 3 places right by the bolt that connects to the left control arm. I was using a 22mm sway with the Beaks subframe renforcement kit. I guess it doesn't work. Does anyone know how to fix this. I am going to buy a new big sub frame brace from A-Spec Racing but, I don't think I can use it until I fix were it is torn. I should have some pictures of it up soon.Tell me what you think. Weld? OR Just new subframe? If its weld-able will it hold up w/ a new subframe brace?



Modified by roadracewade at 4:15 PM 1/14/2005

 

need pics to recommend how to fix it.can you just beat everything back down and weld the cracks?
chris

 

<FONT COLOR="royalblue">is it safe to assume that this is an EK problem only? </FONT>

 

I hate seeing these posts. I am starting to see more and more subframe tearouts with the beaks kit I hope it was installation error cause i have the beaks kit. Ive had it for about a year or a little longer....but sorry for the damage, that sucks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deviant1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hate seeing these posts. I am starting to see more and more subframe tearouts with the beaks kit I hope it was installation error cause i have the beaks kit. Ive had it for about a year or a little longer....but sorry for the damage, that sucks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<FONT COLOR="royalblue"> Which Gen do you have? 5th or 6th? Just curious. Never been aware of this problem until recently, so I am trying to figure out which gen this occurs too. </FONT>

 

I have an EK, 6th

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CA6VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

<FONT COLOR="royalblue"> Which Gen do you have? 5th or 6th? Just curious. Never been aware of this problem until recently, so I am trying to figure out which gen this occurs too. </FONT></TD></TR></TABLE>

Any civic that isnt a type-r.

our little civic subframes werent meant to handle .8 G's of lateral force. so when you toss a fatty sway on there, its gonna stress it, and its gonna tear out. the civic type-r came with a beefier subframe, so they dont have this problem. but the rest of us do. Its just a risk you take when you track a car with a fatty rear sway.


IMO the reinforcement kit dont do ****, if you're worried about the subframe, get a complete sway/tie combo, and hope for the best.

COMPTECH REAR TIE/SWAY IS REALLY GOOD BTW

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JUN EK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Any civic that isnt a type-r.

our little civic subframes werent meant to handle .8 G's of lateral force. so when you toss a fatty sway on there, its gonna stress it, and its gonna tear out. the civic type-r came with a beefier subframe, so they dont have this problem. but the rest of us do. Its just a risk you take when you track a car with a fatty rear sway.


IMO the reinforcement kit dont do ****, if you're worried about the subframe, get a complete sway/tie combo, and hope for the best.

COMPTECH REAR TIE/SWAY IS REALLY GOOD BTW</TD></TR></TABLE>

<FONT COLOR="royalblue"> So this in includes both 5th & 6th Gens? I was never aware of this problem. I wanted to install a Tie Bar on my hatch, now I'm having second thoughts. </FONT>

 

also keep shock/spring rates in mind.if you have a high spring/damping rate setup that allows less body roll,and therefor less twist of the swaybar,you'll have less chance of damage.
put a honkin big swaybar on a car with low spring rates and you're more likely to have problems.
i have the big ST rear bar on my car with Integra rate Skunk coilovers and AGXs;never had any problem for about six years now.
Chris

 

i just picke dup the SRR rear tie, it has a reinforcement built in,

the A-spec looks kingshit tho, that reinforcement is ****** HUGE and its WAAAYYY beefier than the silly beaks kit


Modified by turbotime at 2:04 AM 1/9/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also keep shock/spring rates in mind.if you have a high spring/damping rate setup that allows less body roll,and therefor less twist of the swaybar,you'll have less chance of damage.
put a honkin big swaybar on a car with low spring rates and you're more likely to have problems.
i have the big ST rear bar on my car with Integra rate Skunk coilovers and AGXs;never had any problem for about six years now.
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

what are the integra spring rates in the rear?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the A-spec looks kindshit tho</TD></TR></TABLE>

the A spec looks kinda shitty? is that what you meant? it looks like the comptech one. both prolly do the job well.

 

i meant kingshit, sorry goddam typing!

yeah teh a-spec looks really thick and sturdy, and seeing as how its onepiece it must be better than beaks

 

I have a EK hatch. It rear setup has 22mm ITR sway w/beaks kit and SRR lower control arms. It held up over the summmer. Probably about 13 on track hours with that setup. My suspension was pretty mild. Ground Control Coilovers w/KYB struts. The setup worked perfect until I have found the tears. Who knows how long it has been torn. I have now taken off the rear sway bar. I will be selling the ITR 22mm swaybar with the beaks kit to upgrade to a 32mm rear sway. Pictures are in the process!



Modified by roadracewade at 10:59 AM 1/9/2005

 

Comptech or that A-Spec kit.

Only way to fly.

 

32 mm g'damn

 

Would like to see pics too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just picke dup the SRR rear tie, it has a reinforcement built in,

the A-spec looks kingshit tho, that reinforcement is ****** HUGE and its WAAAYYY beefier than the silly beaks kit


Modified by turbotime at 2:04 AM 1/9/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

you welcome for the SRR rear tie ^_^ lost money on that shiz but oh well live and learn

A-Spec is the shiznit though heres a photo of my setup. I hit the corners pretty good and it just bones out in the direction i point my steering wheel to LOL. when i used to hit a corner hard my tires would screech now it just goes HAHA its pretty fun.



more photos can be seen here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=785497&page=11 on page 11 *info about the EG a-spec brace is on this link* the bar looks funny cuz grease is on it HAHA forgot to clean it, also some of the paint chipped cuz i didn't let it fully dry.

and for the Guy with the rear subframe that tore, sux to hear bout it man but we gotta see some photos of how bad it is to assist you on what to do with it. If its really bad just buy a CTR one and weld it on and you don't have to worry bout kits,tears or anything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkyeC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Comptech or that A-Spec kit.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
A-Spec kit. I should have pics monday. My friend said I probably had to buy a new sub frame. How much would a CTR subframe cost? If its way too expensive I would just rather go with a normal one with a reinforcement kit.

 

ug... you can make a rear subframe support pretty easy

 

How?

 

access to materials and a machine shop...something not everyone has

I'm planning on the a-spec piece too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JUN EK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">our little civic subframes werent meant to handle .8 G's of lateral force.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually, a bone stock EM1 Si can pull more than that on the factory Shitelin all-season tires

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roadracewade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a EK hatch. It rear setup has 22mm ITR sway w/beaks kit and SRR lower control arms. It held up over the summmer. Probably about 13 on track hours with that setup. My suspension was pretty mild. Ground Control Coilovers w/KYB struts. The setup worked perfect until I have found the tears. Who knows how long it has been torn. I have now taken off the rear sway bar. I will be selling the ITR 22mm swaybar with the beaks kit to upgrade to a 32mm rear sway. Pictures are in the process! </TD></TR></TABLE>

You have the OTS spring rate GCs?

 

only way to repair this is to REPLACE THE WHOLE SUBFRAME itself.

lotta money and work.

if u can get a hold of a ctr subframe... thats the way to go.

goodluck