THE BELOW SETUP HAS BEEN EDITED SINCE LAST POSTED, I GOT AN AMAZING DEAL ON SOME TYPE R PARTS TODAY THAT I WASNT ABLE TO PASS UP!

SOME OF THE OTHER PARTS THAT CHANGED (ie JG valve train) IS STUFF THAT I ALREADY HAVE AND AM USING TO SAVE MONEY.

THE 200HP, 91 OCTANE, DAILY DRIVEN, CTR BUILD UP!
Ok, so i've been saving for awhile, reading up on parts even longer and finally have come to the below engine setup. Please feel free to chime in with all opinions. This is going in a 2000 CSI. Remember some things will be left out because im ONLY FOCUSING on the engine bay. This work will most likely be done by HookUps Import Tek or R&D Dyno. Omniman was considered as well. Anyways, this is just a REFRESH of a post I had already made. I'm kind of bumping it and changing things at the same time...

GOALS: 200HP+, Daily drivability, 91 pump gas, atleast 75K miles, DURABILITY, AFFORDABILITY and EFFCIANTCY...

<U>What kind of numbers does everyone see this making</U>??

BLOCK (B16B) Full Block Service

-Bore .25 over
-Hot tank
-Balance
-Blueprint
-New CTR .25 oversize pistons w/rings
-New ARP rod bolts
-New bearings, seals, gaskets, sensors, pumps, belts etc.
-Complete assembly

HEAD (B16A) Full Head Porting Service

-Port
-Polish
-De-shroud
-Shape
-Hot tank
-New Omni Power Hi-Comp valves &gt; (EDIT: Type R valves / Already have)
-New Omni Power Dual springs &gt; (EDIT: JG Dual springs / Already have)
-New Omni Power Titanium retainers (EDIT: JG Magnesium retainers / Alreay have)
-New Buddy Club Spec 3+ cams (EDIT: CTR cams / Already have)
-New Buddy Club cam gears (Silver) (EDIT: Skunk2 cam gears / Already have)
-New ARP head studs
-New seals, gaskets, sensors etc.
-Complete assembly

TRANS (B16A2)

-New Clutch Net E-Z Lock Pro clutch kit
-Re-surface flywheel
-New throw out barring etc.
-Complete assembly

OTHER

-New AEBS Intake Manifold (Ported) (EDIT: Type R manifold)
-New RC 310cc fuel injectors (EDIT: RC 270cc)
-B&M fuel pressure regulator &lt;have&gt;
-New Honda Type R throttle body (Ported)
-New DC Sports JDM 4-1 stainless exhaust header (EDIT: Type R header)
-New OBDII to OBDI conversion harness
-New Honda Type R ECU
-New Hondata S200 engine management
-New Honda cap & rotor
-New NGK spark plugs
-New NGK plug wires
-New Honda sensors, seals, gaskets etc.
-New Honda fluids
-New Honda belts
-Complete assembly
-Complete dyno tuning session


Modified by thevanitygroup at 2:13 PM 1/4/2005

 

seems like a nice $$$$$ setup!

from all the dyno's i've look at lately,
i wouldn't consider using the DC jdm style headers if you can use a little more $$$
and could afford something better..

some say that bisimoto and such will yield better power

just look at what SMS headers produces ..
though on a b16 .. maybe

 

You are headed in the right direction....Nice to see someone do it right, and replace everything. You should hit 200 with that set up. I did with a similar set up.PM me if you got any questions!

 

if you are rebuilding it why dont you throw a gsr crank and rods in there also or do you want to keep it a 1.6 for the challenge
why you need a new type r ecu if you running hondata a cheaper p28 dose the same job

 

I respect you for sticking with the 1.6. I am so tired of people saying to throw in the gsr crank, keep the 1.6 and prove everyone wrong!!! I'm not sure what your final compression ratio is gonna be with the oversized pistons, if it's gonna be around 12.1 I would maybe opt for some Jun 3's. They have near stock idle and little overlap, but when the goodness kicks in WATCH OUT! The guy above that replied saying that he did a similar build up I believe has Jun 3's. I believe to acheive this goal you will need to rev it higher than what the BC3+'s will make. Jun's are a top end cam, the 3+'s are gonna maybe die off shortly after 8k. Again, this is assuming that you're gonna be revvin high to get your peak hp, and the Jun's would really work well with a flowed head. Good luck with this build bro, PLEASE keep us updated! 1.6 FAITH BROTHER!!

 

I've always been 1.6 and i'll stay 1.6. Rod/Stroke ratio. Period.

As for the JUN3's ... I dont think my C/R is going to be 12:1 ... I pretty sure i'm going to be right at 11:1 with my Hi-Comp valves. I have an original B16B block so with my deck height the pistons should sit stock. In the 12:1 area I would ping myself to death and then cry my way home. BC3+ make power through 8200rpms and I plan on going no further. To maintain reliability im not going to depend on the B16B's ability to rev high but more so to rev quick. Get into the power band quicker. Also I dont want something so agressive. Thats why I went with the Omni Power springs. No cam grinding here. Speed and reliability. Thats my ticket.

KEEP the posts coming... more input.. please correct me when I wrong.. I know many people here that have much more knowledge than I. Please speak up.

 

late night bump..

 

definately in the right direction. if it doesnt hit 200, the way it sits it will make alot and it will be fun as all get out to drive. 200 can come, but the header will choke about 5-8whp out of the numbers. good luck! you can always step into another header! would be interested to see how the BC cam will do on a high rpm b16. I really love that motor... personally I saw a certain one make 200 at 8800rpm... thats where it peaked on a 270/12mm cam of actual lift/duration with about 11.3-5:1cr.

 

go toda or SMSP with the header. I made 6hp more just going from JDM DC to toda and my engine is stock..

 

Noticed that a Omni valvetrain will be used. So why not opt for the BC 4's instead? Those are suppose to make power a 1000 rpm's after the 3+'s peak.

 

Setup sounds good.

One thing though, I noticed you are going to port that AEBS mani. If you are reffering to port matching, thats fine. However, if you are talking about removing material from the runners and plantium, I would not recommend this because I feel you need 'MAD" compression to benefit from this. Otherwise, everything sounds good! Good luck!

 

TTT!!!

 

nice setup dud...let me know how u go...

 

hope you get more than 200whp!

 

Bump

 

go big or go home

 

p s nice work either way.... keep pushin for the perfect setup and let us rookies know how it works and send a recipe.....good luck man

 

ttt!

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1054958 you should be able to pull 200 if he can pull 185 with 10.4c/r without standalone

 

i'm wit ya, aiming for that this spring/summer......gonna show my fellow FDG members running ls/vtec what b16s r about

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dstretch33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm wit ya, aiming for that this spring/summer......gonna show my fellow FDG members running ls/vtec what b16s r about </TD></TR></TABLE>

dont get to cocky...even if you both make 200+ hp the ls/v will kill you in torque department...hehe but ya itll movvvveeeee

 

CHECK MY LIST DECIDED TO MAKE BIG HONDA OEM POWER!
Thanks for all the replys guys. Big changes today.. Big.

Anyways, as far as the LS/V vs the CTR, CTR everytime if built evenly. Again the CTR has the ability to get into high HP ranges quicker. The LS/V may have the torque but the lack in the rod/stroke and compression.

 

.....well, the build wont make as much as you had it set before. Thats basically gonna be a stock b16b just cleaned up a little bit. Damn, I had my hope up to see some numbers.........oh well.

 

yea a stopck b16b has no chance of seeing the 200hp mark. good luck on seeing about 170

 

the set-up he's planning wouldn't fall under a stock b16.......and if he can't get 200hp he will get damn close with that set-up