I swapped on a set of 1990 DA rear disk brakes into my 89 hatchback... The rear brakes are clearly trying to stop me when I'm just driving around !!

I'm making 4psi in 5th gear at 40mph !!!!

Anyone have an idea what to look at ?

I installed steel braided lines and bleed the brakes too.

They stink too, hhee hehe.

 

Did you bottom out the rear caliper piston before you installed the pads? Get a larger screwdriver and turn the piston cw until it stops.

 

put an integra brake booster on your car. it'll help with vaccum. unless youve already done that. but your stock one isnt big enough to support the rear disc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SicRx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put an integra brake booster on your car. it'll help with vaccum. unless youve already done that. but your stock one isnt big enough to support the rear disc</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry bro, but that wont cause the brakes to stick. Your logic is completely wrong


Modified by green91 at 1:54 PM 12/18/2004

 

Check the ebrake cables

 

I think my problem might be the brake lines.... I did the DA front brakes about 3 days before the rear disks and they were fine with stock brake lines. I got the SS brake lines the day after the front brake swap, so last night when I did the rear disks I went ahead and put the SS lines up front too. Well, I jacked up the car today, and ALL of my brakes are sticking !!! Not just the rear....

I guess I kinda answered my own question... stupid egay brake lines...

 

have you removed the master cylinder? if you have, it is possible that the pushrod was incorrectly adjusted and could make them stick.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MR.RED’89 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check the ebrake cables</TD></TR></TABLE>

ditto

 

Nahh, I haven't messed with any of the brake compants besides the brakes themselves.

I just swapped the stock lines back on the front and they're doing great, but the rear are still sticking.... I can turn the front tires freely now with them off the ground, the rears are still grabbing on for dear life.

I don't own a 90-91 CRX Si so I don't have the stock lines to swap back on the rear....

Hopefully the egay company with give me my money back... Used for less than one day... That's what I get...

 

Ok... I guess it wasn't the brake lines. After some driving around, the front brakes started to stick again too.

Wonder if I can buy a rebuild kit for the calipers...

 

What MC are you using? In fourthgenhatch's writeup, he accidentally used an ABS part, which had an extended pushrod, which equals constant braking.

 

[QUOTE=89dxhunchback]Nahh, I haven't messed with any of the brake compants besides the brakes themselves.
QUOTE]

Thats your problem bro you need the integra cables I had the same problem finished the swap realized I couldnt push the car(motor being built) did a SEARCH and realized you HAVE to change the e-brake cables changed them and
readjuste them a little and whalla rolls like stock...not sure on the fronts what proportion valve you running?

 

there is a chance that the proportioning valve from your formerly drum EF contained a residual valve that keeps the heavy springs on the pads from squeezing all the fluid back to the MC and then requiring several pumps to engage to drums next time around.

it was mainly on domestics, but no one seems to know the difference in honda proportioning valves so.. could be. it would cause your rear disks to never release. id look into it.

 

It sounds like it it could possibly be your metering valve. But something tells me that it's your e-brake adjustment. Try adjusting your e-brake cables so that they're lengthened some.

 

Its the ebrake cables, This happened to me on one side.

I guess from sitting so long they seaze up internally. What i did was i just unhooked the one side ebrake cable from the caliper that was draging, Then taped back the arm untill it didnt drag.

The hydraulic brakes work great, just i dont have a ebrake on one side. I tried lubing it and everything, its just too old. I will soon replace it, a new caliper is only $75 and its a quick change.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MR.RED’89 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check the ebrake cables</TD></TR></TABLE>


correctly adjusted!!!!!!!


ur caliper might be frozen


Modified by Dyn0speed at 11:16 PM 12/19/2004

 

The front brakes are doing the same thing, so I can't see how it could be the e-brake cables play into all this.... I used the DA e-brake cables too.

I just swapped the entire trailing arm in the rear ( including the e-back cables )and only the knuckle and brake stuff up front.

I didn't have any problems with my MC or B.booster before the swap, and they haven't been touched at all.

I'm going to order new calipers. They were Very hard to get brake pads out of ( like stuck on the rotor ), and the rear ones wouldn't compress.

Both donor cars had 150K miles++ ( 193K on the rears ), but my civic brakes had 160K, so....

I have the DA prop. valve too, but haven't installed it, but I haven't read of anyone else having a problem with using the civic one ( minus the braking not being quite as good )...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89dxhunchback &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They were Very hard to get brake pads out of ( like stuck on the rotor ), and the rear ones wouldn't compress.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The rear calipers don't compress.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eda6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a large screwdriver and turn the piston cw until it stops. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89dxhunchback &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The front brakes are doing the same thing</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like the booster pushrod is improperly adjusted. I know you didn't mess with it...

 

I can't believe nobody in here suggested that maybe the calipers need to be rebuilt.

Especially if the front calipers are sticking, too.

Sticking calipers=rebuild time. Or at least take them apart and clean them up.

Some of the things suggested in this thread as the culprit are just ridiculous.

 

I would assume if you couldn't compress your rear caliper pistons that is one of your problems (fix this before new calipers are installed. Also measure your calipers with a micrometer and reference with a service manual to see if they're within proper thickness). Non-compressible pistons are usually a sign a bad actuator. This could be piston failure or a seized piston because of time, warping, etc...
High Residual Pressure in your cylinder could also be causing this. Not allowing the piston to fully compress.. This could be caused by a few things, easily solved by replacing the piston or entire caliper assembly
Yet another possibly problem is bad Braking-Force Regulator (Correct me if I'm wrong). Although these things don't die very often, there is still a chance.

At any rate. It is important that you bled your brake system thoroughly and properly. You should make sure no air or water is in the system and most all of the dirt/**** is out of the lines and Master Cylinder before you drive your car. Also check for leaks

Furthermore, <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SicRx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put an integra brake booster on your car. it'll help with vacuum. unless you've already done that. but your stock one isn't big enough to support the rear disc</TD></TR></TABLE>. This, I believe is a needed item for good braking. Disc Brakes Disc Brakes are not self actuating, therefore they require more applicable pressure to the disc then shoes do for a drum brake assembly.

 

I was hoping that since I put new SS brake lines on and have the DA "4040" prop. valve that it wasn't going to be a problem as far as B.boost and MC goes...

$176 for all new calipers with LLT garentees.... The rears cost twice as much as the fronts....
$190 in cores too.... But I have them, so no biggie...

 

ANd winner is... well... Still not sure, but the guy that meantioned "screwing the rear disk brakes in" was right about the rears...

I have no clue why this would make a difference, but I screwed the rear calipers in and they were almost perfect ( turned almost completly drag free with the wheel off, I was us the lugs to turn it ). I also took the front pss. side off to see if it had any "screw action", but it didn't so I just opened the bleeder and compressed the piston as far as I could.

So I take it for a drive and it stops fine, but its pulling to the left ( driver side ), which meant the driver side was still sticking, but the passenger side wasn't !! After I got home, the driver side was quite a bit warmer than the passenger side.

So, tomorrow, I'm going to do the same thing the driver side, and hopefully this will end this whole problem...

Honestly, I can't see why any of this would fix my problem, but I'm not complaining...

 

sweet... I was on the interstate on my lunch break, and the brakes just started grabbing like a **** !! They were fine driving around the block, fine driving to wrok, and fine drving to Arby's....

I end up running 12psi in 3rd gear trying not to get run over by all the people doing 70-80mph , and I was still only doing 45-55mph !!!

I guess all the load placed on the engine blew the head gasket ( it was very cold outside, and I had the boost about 2 psi lower than I've been running it ). I had to shut the car down 3 times before I got off the interstate to add some water. I was 20 minutes late back to work, and had to drive home with the wastegate unhooked....

Odd, I never figured a brake problem would cause a blown head gasket, hehe... At least its only 3.5 hours of work to fix the had gasket, but I still don't know what the deal is with the brakes

 

the high volume of fuel in your cylinder due to stomping on the gas was getting an extra long period of time to burn because the rpms were being kept low by the engine braking effect. in turn, the fuel had enough time to absord chamber heat, reaching its autoignition temp and *bang* detonation. excess heat is sure good for warping heads too. you should have retarded your distributor timing when you noticed the car overheating. gives the charge less time to climb toward autoignition temp.

as for the brakes, i cant understand how you cant understand. the pistons were pushed out too far and therefore clamping the caliper even under full pedal release. screwing them in, literally drew them back and gave some free floating clearance between piston-pad-caliper. in the future when you do this, crack the bleeders open so you dont force shitty gunk and sediment back up the lines, but rather let it dribble out, then top off MC

 

I did screw the rear calipers in, but the front ones were holding me back too, and they don't have any "screw action".

I wasn't suprised that it blew the HG, and I understand why it happened.

SO.... What is the solution ?? A permit solution...

When screwing the rear brakes in I HAD TO OPEN THE BLEEDERS or there was no way I could have screwed them in. Even with the bleeders WIDE open, it took all I had to screw them in...