first to start you need to get arp head studs for a 95 civic. all of the old bolts wont fit. you need to save the longest head bolt from the zc. that head bolt is the top middle.then you need a head gasket (i used an mls) for a d15. the head gasket needs to be slightly modified. if your looking at the motor from the front, the hole on the top left(far top left). is over to right a little compared to the zc. i used an air grinder to oblong the hole a little. then do you remember that long bolt? it is a 10x1.5mm or something i cant remeber for sure but it is a little bigger than the d15 bolt holes. i just tapped it out so the long bolt (the first one in head torque sequence) will fit.
next get rid of the old distributor and that sensor peice of **** on the cams. i used a del sol distributor for the si (b16) the distirbutor needs one of the feet cut off so it'll fit i tried setting #1 at all positons but it'll only work in the factory position. although now i dont think it matters since i got msd.
i had to use the zc manifold becuase of the bolt pattern.the fuel rail and injectors from my d15 bolted jsut fine with the exception of 1 hole which i think is similar to crx. if you go to an after market fuel rail and injectors later on you'll have problems. the bolts that come out of the zc manifold dont have the same riser(once again i think it the same as crx) i had to drill an oblong hole once again in my aem fuel rail even though it set up for crx and d15. also the fuel rail it sefl i had to drill 1/2" x 3/8" holes in the original holes so that the fuel rail would sit lower to the manifold. now on to the throttle body.
the zc throttle body was a piece of **** it small and it didnt have the map sensor on it so i used my dx tb. i had to cut off the lower right bolt (becuase of the zc's funky tb) but with three bolts an no need to rewire the harness. i had to fill the idle air control circut up with jb weld because the zc manifold plate where the tb mount doesnt extend down as far as the d15's does. so now i didm't have the iacv but that didn't matter because the old zc iacv was a rat nest of hose. so with uberdata and tweaking the screw on the tb i can get my idle just right.now the throttle cable and bracket was easy it just weld the d15 bracket to the zc manifold. the zc has of set holes where as the d15's are in a line or vice versa, but that the easy part the hard part is the set screw have to be backed all the way down to were the cable comes into the bracket then backed off ever so slightly. this is because the cable has a long stretch to tb. the smallest turn gives you about 200+ rpm. but thats just a little tweaking. all off manifold vacuum lines were just about the same. the zc had 2-3 extra so i just used them for boost gauge, bov and map sensor. or what ever. next the intake air temp was moved from the plenum to the runnerand it was a striaght bolt up. there was extra coolant lines left over from the block to the head so i ran the lines to the turbo.
the exhaust manifold is a very close fit to zc (stock d15) it just sits a little lower
than the zc exhaust. i made a custom turbo manifold for this anyways. the d 15 plug wires wont fit because they are too long but accel makes some good race ones for the zc.
then theres the timing gears i kept the crank timing pulley from the d15 and got rid of the zc cam gears. the zc cam gears are like one or two teeth larger than the d15 cam gears after a about five revolutions the timing is already like twenty degrees off. i just got two edlebrock cam gears for a d15 sohc and they bolted right to the zc camshafts. the timing marks on the gears line up almost perfectly. the reason i say almost is because if you look at the d15 it slants foward a little so tdc in relation to the head is a few degrees retard. if you look at the zc head it almost level . the big difference is only about 2-3 deg. all i do to set base timing is stick an allen wrench in the two oil holes in the zc camshafts and i can get a true tdc.
now as far as the timing belt goes you cant uses the zc one or the d15 one. i have a buddy that works at advance auto parts that lets me go in the back and look for parts. so the belt i found that fits i have no idea what kind of car it came off of. but i do have the part # it's a goodyear gatorback part # 40184 so if you can find it out good luck too you. my buddy says it came off a motorcycle.
then next modifaction i had to do was on the old zc the power steering pump bolts to the head. (i think it was ps dont remeber) this mount has a threaded body that sticks out. the whole body had to be cut in half then quatered so that it would fit over the motor mount bolts on the d15. the front mount on the same side needs to have about 3 5/16" washers between where it bolts to the block so that the timing belt dosen't rub also the timing cover on the block needs to be trimmed so that the belt dosen't rub. i dont know if the head timing cover will fit or not becuase i never had any intention of putting it back on. thats pretty much every thing i can think of.

i you have any questions or find discrepencies just hit me back and i'll answer.

Modified by baseballinmyass at 9:19 AM 8/21/2005


Modified by baseballinmyass at 9:05 PM 8/24/2005


Modified by rob... at 11:27 AM 4/3/2008


Modified by rob... at 10:27 PM 4/3/2008

 

nice...I guess. I'd be embarrassed to have put that together

 

looks like it cost you 50 bucks to make and took you 20 min to throw together while you were learning how to weld. Ugly as **** but bewst i cool i guess

 

Um, nice?

 

nice setup bro, clean her up, she drippin in oil!!!

 

oil oil oil everywhere. seriously.

 

i just now took the pics on short notice. so its not cleaned up from when i changed the head gasket.

 

so you put a ZC head on a d15 block? how's it running?

 

I didn't think that the dohc zc head would fit on a sohc block w/o major fab work....how does it run?

 

pretty good. i just blew the head gasket but thats replaced but other than that it worked out fine.

 

Thats one ghetto oil line man.

 

there was a few tweaks but you can see them on one of my other threads. i dont now how to put up a link to a thread but its in the eg room under "speedo rolled over"

 

ya but it works.

 

Did you redrill the holes for the head bolts or something? What about the oil passages they didn't line up the last time I checked.

 

nope. perfect match. the coolant holes in the head dont line up a 100% but they are so damn close it doesn't matter

 

so d15b PM3 BASED SOHC WITH d16A1 BASED HEAD?

 

man it looks like u threw up all over ur engine. and y is there rust on ur header?

 

Jesus. That is beyond ghetto and ugly looking. I hope it lasts.

 

This car went 140 mph?

If so, function over fasion in every aspect i guess.

 

wow....Just wow.

 

water leaked in through the hoods vent. i dont believe in fashion, show cars suck.

 

ghetto setup

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baseballinmyass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nope. perfect match. the coolant holes in the head dont line up a 100% but they are so damn close it doesn't matter</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looks like there's coolant everywhere: you sure they match up at all?

 

I think that is some good ****, I would clean the car first but thats me. But your on to something here and you just fucked up the game for everyone that owns a b. Dyno that **** n/a and see what it does.

 

drive to kregans:
-GUNK grease remover
-take a day off of what you do
-SPRAY THE **** OUT OF YOUR ENGINE BAY
-hose off
-repeat as needed


a dirty engine bay is almost as bad as having a dirty ferarri.