when im in first going slow and let OFF the gas, the car rocks back and forth making a knocking noise coming from the front of the car. it knocks as the car rocks back and foward. is that a motor mount or a bushing. defenatly doesnt sound right????????

 

it sounds like a torn torque mount. those are the front and rear mounts. get the energy suspension inserts. that'll fix it. unless you cracked the mount. then your s.o.l.

 

mine is getting there too... where is that torque mount? I know that the mount where you have to take it off to get the ac belt off is wack. Is that a mount too?

 

thats a mount, but not torque. there is one attached to the rear of the engine and one usualy on the front. the e.s. insert kit comes with all the inserts you'll need. its maybe 40$ and installs in like 2 hours.

 

ot..but where in ct are you?>

 

working in southbury, live in torringon.

 

cool

 

thats the best i can come up with. #6 and #13 are the torque mounts. they stop the engine from rocking front to back. #4 and #8 help a little, but are mostly for support. oh, this is for a 91 teg. should be similar for the rest of the years.

 

the parts are cheap, but what all is involved in replaceing the bushings?

 

hmm i wound mind trying to replace the mounts... i remember hearing that if you replace the bushing with the poly ureathane ones, they squeek?>

 

is it hard???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats the best i can come up with. #6 and #13 are the torque mounts. they stop the engine from rocking front to back. #4 and #8 help a little, but are mostly for support. oh, this is for a 91 teg. should be similar for the rest of the years.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cool, Can you clear up what cracked mounts mean? Are you refering to the metal housing?

My rubber mounts have some ripped spots in them, expecially the rear torque mount... The metal isnt cracked, will this fix the problem?

I was waiting to hear testomonials on the ES mounts.. Your feedback would be appreciated

 

My front mount broke in half. Does that mean I can't use the E.S. kit to fix it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90Integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My front mount broke in half. Does that mean I can't use the E.S. kit to fix it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if the actual metal casting of the mount is broken you have to replace it. cant use the inserts. sorry. try to find a used mount if you want to use the inserts.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecluder97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Cool, Can you clear up what cracked mounts mean? Are you refering to the metal housing?

My rubber mounts have some ripped spots in them, expecially the rear torque mount... The metal isnt cracked, will this fix the problem?

I was waiting to hear testomonials on the ES mounts.. Your feedback would be appreciated </TD></TR></TABLE>
if the metal housing is cracked you need to replace it. if the rubber inside is ripped then you can use the es inserts.
i'm using e.s. inserts in the torque mounts and i love em. the engine doesnt move at all. instant power transfer.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by getdrugtoday &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it hard???</TD></TR></TABLE>
nah, not realy. can be done in a couple of hours.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xyooj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm i wound mind trying to replace the mounts... i remember hearing that if you replace the bushing with the poly ureathane ones, they squeek?&gt;</TD></TR></TABLE>
ones in the suspension do, but not these. they dont move as much as the suspension does. the only drawback is a little bit more vibration coming through the steeringwheel and car.

 

can the torque mounts/inserts be changed without supporting the motor?

I remember the front mount on a DA, but does the DC come with a front mount?
At least I don't see a front mount on the teg I just picked up.........it seems to have a bad torque mount somewhere

 

correct. dc's dont have the front support. the back can be changed without supporting the engine. its a pita to change. the 2 side mounts will hold the engine inplace just fine.
but you will need a jack to work them. not realy to support the engine but just to get the mounts in and out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">correct. dc's dont have the front support. the back can be changed without supporting the engine. its a pita to change. the 2 side mounts will hold the engine inplace just fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but you will need a jack to work them. not realy to support the engine but just to get the mounts in and out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is regarding the side mounts?

one more question......maybe a dumb one........what all could go wrong by not changing out bad mounts/inserts in time?
other than jerky ride characteristics, that make you wnat to slip the clutch to avoid the jerking

cause it looks like I'll have to wait a little bit before addressing this problem.

 

well i didnt change my bad mounts and ended up ripping the shift support bar out of my transmission. its cheaper to just change the mounts.

there is a rear mount and 2 mounts in the front of the engine on each lower side. you can use the stock jack to hold it up. the insert kits work fine and are under 40$ usualy. i would just do one of those.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i didnt change my bad mounts and ended up ripping the shift support bar out of my transmission. its cheaper to just change the mounts.

there is a rear mount and 2 mounts in the front of the engine on each lower side. you can use the stock jack to hold it up. the insert kits work fine and are under 40$ usualy. i would just do one of those.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I looked at the side mounts when I was going to buy the car, but couldn't see the rear mount and couldn't tell if the trany mount was bad.....if it is the rear, like you said, it will be difficult to get to.
I've read through some of te archives, and came up with this:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by infamousALLMTR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.jimfab.com these three mounts go to your integra and work just as well as "hasport" and they are way less expensive

rear "drag" mount

front lower mounts



I just ordered all three for $100 shipped and jimfab provides a lifetime warranty on his parts </TD></TR></TABLE>

I went to the jimfab site and saw the lower side mounts for the DC integra, but the rear "drag" mount was listed as just for civic.
is the civic mount the same as the DC integra rear mount, or does jimfab not have the integra rear mount anymore?

I also was quoted a price of $315 for the DCSTK set from hasport.

I had solid mounts fabricated and installed on a 92 integra I once had, by rpmnyc...I think they charged me $475 for the complete job......vibration was noticeably more, but not unbearable in contrast to the great improvement in handling and response.

sucks about the further damage that can occur if not done in a timely fasion, being that I want to do more than just inserts.......

 

I ordered my ES inserts last week from a board sponsor I cant wait to get them.

for those wondering about the difficulty of installation...
http://www.hazone.com/hmtrmount.htm

 

yeah, i would just do the es inserts. i've used those on many cars and they work awesome. if you just did the front 2 you'de be ok.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, i would just do the es inserts. i've used those on many cars and they work awesome. if you just did the front 2 you'de be ok.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i got the jimfab torque mounts and installed them, was pretty straightforwards, took maybe an hour, but man, thems bitchs is STIFF

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fuzzado &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ordered my ES inserts last week from a board sponsor I cant wait to get them.

for those wondering about the difficulty of installation...
http://www.hazone.com/hmtrmount.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

good link
but I think I'm going to do more than just inserts...especially if I find out the bracket is cracked

so now I know the DC has five mounts......I see thought that most mount kits come with three mounts......is this because the right and left front mounts are not needed when going with a stiffer setup?



just saw your posts when I reloaded:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, i would just do the es inserts. i've used those on many cars and they work awesome. if you just did the front 2 you'de be ok.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It feels really bad.....would the front two being the problems lead to such jerkiness?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Code Blue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i got the jimfab torque mounts and installed them, was pretty straightforwards, took maybe an hour, but man, thems bitchs is STIFF</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah I like what I'm seeing there...they're much cheaper than that hasport mounts...but the rear mount on his site says it's for the civic.....is it also for the teg?

 

i'de say check first, if the housing isnt cracked then the es inserts would work fine. if it is cracked then the jimfab ones would work well. with the 2 front ones you dont need to worry about the rear. they will hold the engine enough. i also like place racing, but their website sucks. you can call them monday and see what they charge for their mounts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'de say check first, if the housing isnt cracked then the es inserts would work fine. if it is cracked then the jimfab ones would work well. with the 2 front ones you dont need to worry about the rear. they will hold the engine enough. </TD></TR></TABLE>

well, I finally did it.
I bought these:


and yesterday I went to install them.
my front two mounts (left and right lower mounts in the diagram above) were badly worn but had not yet completely ripped....the weak rubber was badly cracked and extremely soft.
the right front mount came off very easily by unbolting the bushing bolt, and then two of the connecting bracket bolts....the bracket then swiveled down and the mount slid right off....that was easy enough
putting the jimfab mount on was fairly easy, I did need to hammer it on using a ratchet to keep the metal sleeve from popping out, but it went on well, then bolted right up to the stock position....done.

the left front mount was not as easy.
the frame got in the way, and I couldn't get it out, so I loosened three of the side engine mounts bolts, allowing the engine to sag down a bit. that was enough to slide the stock mount off by tilting it under the frame (the rubber was very soft and easy to manipulate).
but the jibfab mount has a shorter height, and wouldn't get by the frame to go on to the engine mount piece (don't know what to call it), so I had a friend push down on the motor, and with the help of a mallet/hammer was able to slide the jimfab mount pass the frame and on, from there everything bloted right up.

I then went on to do the rear mount, or so I thought. This was incredibly difficult for me, and I had help. We were able to get the four bolts off the rear mount and bracket, but for nothing in the world could we get that thing out from behind the motor (I didn't have a motor winch), so without taking the motor out......I failed to find a way to remove the rear mount from behind the motor.
So I still have the rear jimfab mount uninstalled....it was disappointing to say the least

anyway, turned on my teg, and felt an immediate difference....it's nothing like stock and I thought since I had a DA I had put solid race mounts on (and it wasn't that bad) I knew what I was in for.......the vibration was more than I expected. Coins in the door and coin pocket were dancing, the steering wheel was massaging my hands, and everything hummed.....lol
that's the bad..............
now the good:
the responsiveness of the car is incredible, and there is no more jerking around of the shifter or motor (so jdmmotorsports, you were right, the front two alone took care of the problem) . Everything about the driving and performance of the car has improved, or at least it feels that way...acceleration/braking/turning/shifting are all much improved

now to see how I get that rear mount on and adjust to that vibration.......I don't thing it's anymore than I had on my DA with the solid mounts, but it's just that my da had more vibration than the DC to begin with, so it was less drastic a change.

If anyone knows how to get that rear mount out and the jimfab one on, I would greatly appreciate it