chrysler orange!


time to retire old buddy







the new profab header. Got the b16 one by mistake so the oilpan was um...."modified" (with a hammer. Good ground clearance!



could someone please tell me what this is and what i should do with it?

this build took , me 4 months. Everything is new except for Vtec solenoid. Bored 0.020 over, resurfaced, honed, balanced. GSR crank/rods, PR3 pistons, Crower stage II's, Crower valvetrain/ titamium retainers, ProFab header, 954 CBR ITB's. should be runing later this week.

 

what cams u runnin?

 

read the paragraph at the bottom of his post

 

looks nice

 

looks good. one tip though. honda parts are very well machined. u need to take it easy on the orange silicon. it just takes a thin strip to seal everything up. u will have a bitch of a time gettin that oil pan off later. anything thats rubber i dont use any sealer on (oil pan, valve cover, cam seals)

 

lookin good!

 

nice job! you dropping it into a 4 door 90 civic?

 

Nice motor...Good luck

But one thing that I'm going to tell you is that the Itb's that you have is way to small and it's going to kill your top end... You need at list 48mm..


We try them...And 48mm works the best for the setup that you have...


But you have them so good luck

 

I like ur old motor better

 

i see u got the same problem with the profab header as me it hugs the oil pan ur lucky u didnt have it put it on with the motor in the car it wasnt fun lol i had to kick mines in
also you will have to take one of the bottom tranny brace off next to the header and a bolt off the fly wheel shield. if you use the type r flywheel cover u will have to grind a **** load off to clear that header.

 

Reminds me of the smsp header.

Looks good!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hayabusa160 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i see u got the same problem with the profab header as me it hugs the oil pan ur lucky u didnt have it put it on with the motor in the car it wasnt fun lol i had to kick mines in
also you will have to take one of the bottom tranny brace off next to the header and a bolt off the fly wheel shield. if you use the type r flywheel cover u will have to grind a **** load off to clear that header.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont whats up with that. Tim must be using a mockup with a b16 oilpan. I have an extra b16 pan laying around but I didnt want to take the LS pan off and scrape all that gasket maker off, so I just used a hammer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks good. one tip though. honda parts are very well machined. u need to take it easy on the orange silicon. it just takes a thin strip to seal everything up. u will have a bitch of a time gettin that oil pan off later. anything thats rubber i dont use any sealer on (oil pan, valve cover, cam seals)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, this is the first motor ive ever built so i went a little crazy with that stuff. Its kinda everywhere. I REALLY hope nothing leaks cause redoing that would suck, especially the front and the rear mains. Anyway, It should be in tomorow and ready to run, I bought some Lucas oil stabilizer and I was wondering if thats a good idea for a fresh motor? And could someone give me some tips for breaking it in? Ive never done that before. My first trip will have to be to the muffler shop to get an eshaust welded it, then its to a tuner to smooth out the air/fuel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pacman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice motor...Good luck

But one thing that I'm going to tell you is that the Itb's that you have is way to small and it's going to kill your top end... You need at list 48mm..


We try them...And 48mm works the best for the setup that you have...


But you have them so good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, its kinda too late. But Im sure this setup outflows an IM like a type R or skunk2.

 

CLEAN MOTOR

 

Nice pics
"note to self Profab header will hit radiator in EF applications..lol

 

shes as clean as a whistle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mentat Ghola &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well, this is the first motor ive ever built so i went a little crazy with that stuff. Its kinda everywhere. I REALLY hope nothing leaks cause redoing that would suck, especially the front and the rear mains. Anyway, It should be in tomorow and ready to run, I bought some Lucas oil stabilizer and I was wondering if thats a good idea for a fresh motor? And could someone give me some tips for breaking it in? Ive never done that before. My first trip will have to be to the muffler shop to get an eshaust welded it, then its to a tuner to smooth out the air/fuel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looks good cant wait to hear how is runs. Im going to be building one this winter Dont use the stabilizer, just use regualar old dinosaur oil. Break it in for 500 miles before your final tune. Id change the oil as well @ 500, then dont use synthetic till after 3k

 

Me rikey orange

 

sweeeet, looks like VX EGR stuff as posted earlier...dont think ya need it anymore!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mitsuman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">read the paragraph at the bottom of his post</TD></TR></TABLE>
thank you

 

heres a tip that you should take very seriously. Dont start the engine until theres a wideband hooked up. id hate to see all that hard work down the tubes for nothing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbociv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heres a tip that you should take very seriously. Dont start the engine until theres a wideband hooked up. id hate to see all that hard work down the tubes for nothing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, that would be tough. But I dont think shell be runing dangerously lean because A) Its a chipped ECU by Kenji B) Theres a 195 walbro fuel pump and C) ITB setups are notorious for runing rich prior to tuning I could also adjust the fuel pressure high until I get it on a wideband. Oh, and Im gonna dump some octane booster (alot of it) in there just to prevent detonation. Then once everythings tuned just 91 octane.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SicNA94TegGsR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Looks good cant wait to hear how is runs. Im going to be building one this winter Dont use the stabilizer, just use regualar old dinosaur oil. Break it in for 500 miles before your final tune. Id change the oil as well @ 500, then dont use synthetic till after 3k</TD></TR></TABLE>

no stabilizer how come? Bad? Or just not necessary?

 

even without all those suggestions unless u have a crazy motor build (which u dont) u could run the motor on a stock ECU without issues at low RPM. normal operation and cruising is around 14.5-14.8:1 AF ratios.