Ok, I did a search and nothing really helped me. My gas gauge hasnt been working for a while now. I put in new gauges thinking that was the problem, but it isnt. Everytime I put a new a gauge in the need went all the way to full. And it just stays there. So now I dont know what the problem is and it really pisses me off. If anyone can help please let me know. By the way its a 96 Lx.

 

At first I though there was a problem with the guage cluster I sold you a while ago. I believe it was you who I sold it to. Then I read the post and saw that it's more than one guage doing the same thing.

Anyway, isn't there a float, or something that, in the tank that send a signal to the guage to display the level? Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Could this be your problem?

 

when you are installing the new fuel gauge, are you moving or touching the needle?? if so, youve just broken it. i did that when swapped clusters and it broke the guage. they are very sensitive, so if you even turn the needle on any of the guages, it will break them. sorry man, but you'll have to buy a new guage again.

 

Could be the fuel sending unit in the tank.

 

i was thinking float thinga majigger too... but who really wants to start ******* around inside a gas tank?

 

Try shaking / bouncing ur car around... maybe da floating thingy majiggy is stuck up there and all it needs is some mild mannered violence to bring dat bitch back to reality! Might i suggest u ask ur fattest of fat friends to jump up n down on ur rear bumper

 

i wish i could help you but mine stays allways on empty .....i would like to know why mine don't work eaither.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuNDaY DRiVeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try shaking / bouncing ur car around... maybe da floating thingy majiggy is stuck up there and all it needs is some mild mannered violence to bring dat bitch back to reality! Might i suggest u ask ur fattest of fat friends to jump up n down on ur rear bumper </TD></TR></TABLE>

wtf?!

 

Nah Touring the cluster you sent me was fine I took the Temp gauge off it and that worked fine. If the problem is with the needle being touched that really sucks. I hate taking apart my dash. Oh well i'll think of something. Thanks guys.

 

the needle touching thign is the problem. the actual guages are really sensitive and turning the needle will break it. trust me, ive done it twice before. and yes, ive takedn the damn 4th gen dash apart like 4 times. it sucks.

 

the needle is NOT broken, and the problem is NOT in the gauge cluster. you said that when you turned the car on, the needle then moved to full. obviously, if the needle moved at all, it still works. a broken needle would simply not move or gravity would cause it to fall to empty before you even finished reinstalling it into the car. the problem most likely resides with the float "thingy" (hell if i know what it's called) or sending unit (although i've never seen a faulty sending unit make it read full).

 

have you done this by experience? i have. when i turned my car on it went all the way to full and stayed there too. exact same thing as he said is happeneing to his. i was turning the needle on my gas guage before i put it into the actual cluster. after i got a new one and put it in withough scrweing with the guage, it worked fine and still does.

 

yes, actually, i am speaking from experience. the difference is that you were turning the needle while it was still out of the car. your needle was actually just off, not broken. you bascially just misaligned your needle by moving it around.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sj993 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could be the fuel sending unit in the tank.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it can be the fuel sending unit... you need a voltmeter to check

 

Pull the connector to the fuel sending unit in the tank. You have to remove an access cover to acess.

W/ ignition switch ON the fuel gauge should show empty. If it stays on full, you have a short somewhere in the wiring that's grounding the voltage supply line to ground. Trace short.

If gauge shows empty, then fuel gauge sender is faulty and must be replaced. Remove from tank and replace w/ new or used working sender.

good luck

 

how would i realign the guage? i still have the old cluster is why, and a spare one would be nice.

 

well, there's no good way of realigning the needle. i'm assuming the current fuel gauge works, right? try this... at half of a tank, take the old gauge and try moving it back down. plug in old gauge, turn car to "on" and see where the needle goes. repeat process until needle points to half of a tank. of course, this may not work at all. i've pulled needles off other people's gauges to try to fix the problem before, but i really do not suggest this method. a lot of times you can damage the needle's motor. not to mention it's not easy pulling the needle off without breaking it.

honestly, i wouldn't bother with it. but if you still have the old gauges just lay around, and don't mind wasting some time...

EDIT: this is NOT something that S.Celia should try...

 

did you try checking the volt on the FSU (fuel sending unit)??? its a pretty known problem for 5th gen accords... my 5th gen the gas gauge is always active, but for newer models i believe it shuts off when the ignitions off and turns on when the ignition is at the ON position...

 

WHERE DO U CHECK THE VOLTS? could you show me a picture or give me info on where/how to test

what ports etc.

 

i have direct experience with the "float" inside the tank. The float has an arm that moves a needle like thing. but it has a reading whenever you move it up or down or (gas level). i have replaced my pump and upgraded it as well. find out what pin/wire give you the reading. I cant remember on mine becuase its been so long. It is in the haynes manual though. i would move the float up and down out of the tank and see if the volts change.

 

Ok well here you go. You take an Ohm meter. Niot a volt meter. And you take the access panel that sits over the sending unit. You then need to probe the connector on the ground and one other pin, it has been a while do not remember what the other one is, but its in the haynes manual as mentioned. If your gas tank is full it should read around 4 ohms. If it is empty it should be around 130 ohms. That is how the float works. As the float drops, it adds resistance, which in turn makes the potentiometer behind the fuel gauge in return drop. So, fill up your tank, and use around 100-150 miles, which would be around maybe 1/2 or tank, of course depending on driving condition and habits. Test the sending unit, if you see around the 4 ohms, like you would read if it was full, then you found your cause, if you read something else, like lets say 1/2 way between the 4 and 130, well...hmm....wadda you know, the sending unit works. I may be mistaken, but I believe when this type of sending unit does not work, like if it is grounded out, then it automatically sends the fuel gauge to empty. Mine kept reading full, so I tested it and it was the gauge. When I put the new one in, I did adjust the needle with my finger, and it still has worked to this day, so yes you can touch it, as stated above, if you push it down and rotate the key forward and it moves up, then obviously something is working. It just happens to be getting a short to voltage, because it is getting no resistance sent to the potentiometer. I recommend changing the gauge again, or maybe trying to swap out the circuit board behind the gauge with one of the others. Hopefully this helps.

 

I unplugged the sender units wires today and turned the car to ON.
but the needle didint drop. nothing moved.

it stayed at the ful;ll

so whats this mean ? the guage is ****ed? or the sender unit?

ALSO any1 have a picture of the sender unit sum1 showed me a parts list but it only looks like al ittle wire and its 56$

is there something else? or is this the 'fuel sender unit' the wire itself?

 

If you unplugged it then it should have dropped. so the gauge is done.

 

thing is i didint know whicvh one tio unplug so i unpluged all three lol.

the fuel pump is the one with the lines to it right ?

the smaller cylinder is the fuel sender?


did i have to turn the car fully ON?

cause i only put it to 1 and 2 on the key and not accually ON

 

you just need it to be on the ignition key cycle, the power gets sent to the fuel pump, and sender unit during that phase