Car: 2000 HB DX
Motor: 2000 B16a2

well i went to the Ref Station today and got owned by my HC levels and ECU verification, all in all not bad but i do have to make another trip there....i passed everything thing else except thoses problems above.

idle @ 703: HC=146

the maximum is 100 @idle so i failed there, but other than that everything went fine, my question is how do i lower the HC levels? Will a new Cat help or should i have ran the car hot as hell before letting them test it? Unfortunately I sat in the waiting room with no buddy to keep my engine hot while i was waiting.

Also regarding the ECU verification, i know i have a 99-00 Si ECU part# P2T-A11, but when i went to Honda they gave me a print out with the part# P2T-A12, does anyone know if thats ok?

 

How many miles are on your cat. converter? Changing it might help, but with a car that new, I doubt it's bad. If you can run it hot, I think it'll be best, next time just bring someone with you.

Btw, did they run dyno smog or two speed idle? Also, you may want to retard the timing 2 degrees(max. allowable adjustment) from stock which may lower the emissions also.

 

The cat converter is a car sound cat probably 20k on it and they used a 2 speed idle because my car is too low

 

car sounds cats are known to go bad, there is alot of talk about them in the all motor forum, basiclly they suck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xhatchracerx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The cat converter is a car sound cat</TD></TR></TABLE>


there is your problem right there.

 

before I went to the ref, I made sure the car is hot, but when I got there I had to sit and wait for him for about 20 minutes. I told his assistant if I can just leave the car on while we're waiting and she said I cant do that. to top it all off it started raining. I still pass though, I would have gotten better results if wouldnt for the rain.

 

if not car sound cat then wat cat? because if nothing else works im probably going to buy a 2.5 JDM CTR/ITR cat i dunno wat might work

 

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xhatchracerx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if not car sound cat then wat cat? because if nothing else works im probably going to buy a 2.5 JDM CTR/ITR cat i dunno wat might work</TD></TR></TABLE>

Doesn't really matter on the brand if it's brand new and you're not worried about it in the long run.... Just go to your local muffler shop and have them weld on a new aftermarket cat. converter. Obd2 converters usually run about 160 installed.

 

Put the stock motor back in, have it tested, then put your A2 back in. it's about 3 hours worth of work but in my opinion that's the way to go. I lived in cali for about a year and it sux out there. back in texas now and don't have to worry about stupid emissions laws (I gots the hook up). That's my opinion.

 

SirRevvs:

It is about a half hour of work tops to replace a cat. It really is not that hard to get your car BAR'd. Many people do it.

Try and contibute to the post rather than say "put in the stock motor" thats not what hes is asking.


xhatchracerx:

What type of verification do you need? Did they ask for something during the test?

When i gto my car BAR'd they never asked me for any type of verification they just checked to make sure it was a OBD 1 P72 ecu.

 

where did u try to ref it at?

 

hydro carbons

sounds like the cat is the problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94cxhybrid-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SirRevvs:

It is about a half hour of work tops to replace a cat. It really is not that hard to get your car BAR'd. Many people do it.

Try and contibute to the post rather than say "put in the stock motor" thats not what hes is asking.


xhatchracerx:

What type of verification do you need? Did they ask for something during the test?

When i gto my car BAR'd they never asked me for any type of verification they just checked to make sure it was a OBD 1 P72 ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>


exactly, the whole point of this swap is to get my car BARd, but anyway he told me to go to Honda to verify that a P2T comes from a 99-00 Si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Si HaTcHBaCK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where did u try to ref it at?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sacramento off of Bussiness Ln.

the guy was cool about it when they told me the technican had to talk to me about something i was like damn im screwed, but when he came to talk to me the only thing that was wrong was the HC levels were too high and that he couldnt confirm that my P2T ecu was from a 99-00 SI. Afterwards he even complimented me on my swap.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turtle-eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Doesn't really matter on the brand if it's brand new and you're not worried about it in the long run.... Just go to your local muffler shop and have them weld on a new aftermarket cat. converter. Obd2 converters usually run about 160 installed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i have another brand new cat waiting to go in this weekend

 

anyone think it will be worth the effort to retard the timing by 2 degrees? because i searched and found that your allowed +/- 2 degrees. And also from the search i found that retarding the timing by 2 degrees will help reduce emmissions, mainly my HC levels...anything helps i suppose

 

bump

 

I really don't know if this helps, but my friend uses IsoHEET to cheat smog a bit, it lowers the numbers somehow.

 

here's what I used prior to going to my "test only" smog test station. I wipe clean inside my throttle body and intake manifold. these parts tend to have alot of carbon and oil buildup in them. I also pulled my IACV off and cleaned the screen of the carbon buildup. and last I got rid of my POS carsound cat which had the honeycomb inside it break apart in two of the carsound cat I had. I replaced the carsound cat with a cat I got from summitracing.com called "catco" Not only did I passed I also passed very clean too. BTW I checked my ignition & camshaft timing prior to going to the test to make sure both are within the factory specs.

 

the P2T definetly comes from a 99-00 si i have one of those ecu's at my house.The part number on the one i have is 37820-P2T-A12. i would not retard the timing as this may effect other aspects of the test.

You can also take the car and have it inspected by a test and repair station(do not get it smogged just a pretest and inspection) and they can point you in the right direction as to how to get it to pass. Ususally the ref wont give you any tips on how to get it passed .


You can try a formula that they sell at your local napa or autozone that is supposed to help you pass. I do not remember the name but you should be able to find it there.

HTH

 

i heard denatured alcohol works like a charm, but i have no experience with it so i dunno

 

ya it does.....

 

so how much per gallon?

 

not sure , search for smog tricks its around here somewhere.

 

i failed again because i had a P2T-A11 ecu instead of a P2T-A12 ecu, according to the ref they could be different so on that, but easy fix. Next i failed because my carsound cat isnt OBDII, the ref actually jacked up my car then looked up the numbers for the cat, i mean wtf right? I passed emmisions with flying colors this time, but hey i guess that doesnt matter.

Anyone know the part # for the OBDII Carsound Cat? 2.5 preferably