OK my swap is done but let me clue you in. I took the b18c1 gsr out of my crx dx, and moved it over to the new si i bought. IN the DX the motor ran mint! but now in the Si, it runs mint untill i go drive it for 10-20 min(under normal conditions-- i dont take it past 4k RPM). Then the temp gauge starts to move way up towards hot.

When I am stopped, the temp. needle slowly starts to return to normal.

I am not leaking coolant, i am not burning coolant, and there are no loose hoses to my knowledge. I also have a C&R radiator with FAL fan. I am pretty sure it's not the thremostat...any ideas???

 

Is it overheating only when at a stop or in slow moving traffic..??

 

When my CRX was overheating it was from a leak in the rad. I know you said that wasnt the problem but that is what my problem was. The thermostat might be malfunctioning, but since it worked in the DX that shouldnt just happed for no apparent reason.

Are you throwing any codes or anything?

CRX Forum

 

dude ur fan is not probaly working.

cause the way they are wired are different.

 

I dont think that it would be the fan. It shouldnt over heat to the point of causing concern after 10 min. I drove my CRX with about 1/5 of coolant in it for 30 min before I noticed a problem. 10 min is way too soon for just the fan not to work especially if he is not leaking coolant.

But I could be wrong. Im not saying you are wrong I just disagree.

CRX Forum

 

make sure no leadks, check the fan and fan switch conntections.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxforum &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont think that it would be the fan. It shouldnt over heat to the point of causing concern after 10 min. I drove my CRX with about 1/5 of coolant in it for 30 min before I noticed a problem. 10 min is way too soon for just the fan not to work especially if he is not leaking coolant.

But I could be wrong. Im not saying you are wrong I just disagree.

CRX Forum</TD></TR></TABLE>

make sure your fan is working!! looks like your case get it check out.

 

head gasket?

 

bleed it , then make sure the fan is working. my gsr had to be wired in different to get the fan to run

 

My friend has the same problems in his b18c1 swapped ef hatch. The doesnt kick on when it gets to hot. I would be willing to bet that this is your problem.

 

this happened on my friends turbo gsr...it ended up being the thermostat was stuck shut so he went and bought a new one and it worked.

 

I didnt have to wire my fan any diff... but I would check that, your thermostat, and bleed that thing man!!!
Ryan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integranator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My friend has the same problems in his b18c1 swapped ef hatch. The doesnt kick on when it gets to hot. I would be willing to bet that this is your problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mine also, I wired the fan to a switched power source also I upgraded the radiator to an integra one so even when the fan was not running it still did not overheat.

 

Start it, let it warm up till the gauge is about 1/3 of the way. Dont let it go past. Feel your upper rad hose. It should be hot. Feel your lower. It should be hot. They both should look "full". If the bottom is cold or is empty your thermostat isnt opening.

 

prob the fan imo

 

I went for over a year without a fan at all in my car, and I had a full size oem crx radiator. I only overheated 1 time being stuck in traffic for a few hours. Since then i wired up my own fan switch and I only use it when stuck in traffic for a while. I dont think its your fan. Replace your thermostat its only a few bucks anyhow and its cheap maintenance.

 

Logic (not always correct) says that it's something that went wrong with the new installation and it isn't the engine.

I'd recommend that you disconnect the electrical connector that goes to the sensor that turns on the fan. With the ignition turned on (engine not running), you should be able to ground the terminal and the fan should come on. If it doesn't, then there is some problem with the wiring.

Wes

 

Alright i finally had some time off school to check this stuff out and here's what i found:

1) There was a small leak, but it was because i didnt tighten the lower RAd hose all the way. i fixed this before i made this post

2) The fan does work and come on when it should. I knew this before the post also.

3) The thermostat is fine

4) When i warm up the car and feel both radiator hoses, they are hot.

5) The head gasket is fine.

6) I am going to rule it as bleeding the coolant system. I bled it once already but hey, cant hurt to bleed it again.


EDIT: --FOLLOW UP--

Well i bled the coolant system and a few more bubbles came out so that is what it was.
My advice to anyone that had this problem...... Fill, bleed, fill, bleed.

Bleed it from the "coolant bleed nipple" on the engine block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spcrxracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I bled it ; bleed it again.


EDIT: --FOLLOW UP--

Well i bled the coolant system ; Fill, bleed, fill, bleed. </TD></TR></TABLE>

good advice

 

u sure your clip for the temp sending unit it good and tight.i had the same prob and when i checked that clip it was lose as ****.it made my temp go up and down and a split second.worth a look.

 

Yeah i dont think the fan would have caused it to overhead from 10 min of driving, ive been driving for 3 months half hour a day with no fan.

 

Yup...air is the most common thing causing bad readings. Looks like you got it fixed. Good job.