Ok well I noticed that when I would brake, the pedal would give way the longer I held the pedal. Now it has gotten really bad and any time I go to brake, the pedal goes to the floor!!

So I had my brake fluid flushed today and that didnt solve the problem. Needless to say, I think I need a brake master cylinder. My question was "Is it just a bolt-on process or do I need to take it somewhere? I would HATE to have to pay labor if its simple.

Ohh and am I right in saying that it is probably this or could there be other variables?

Thanks

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=364783

Well sorry guys I found an excellent thread that shows its a simple bolt-on process!

Just want a confirmation though and also to make sure that this is probably what went wrong.

Could the booster go bad?

Also, I am going to have to bleed the brakes....right? STupid, but just making sure


Modified by Spooled-U at 7:51 PM 10/18/2004

 

yeah, it sounds like your master cyl., if your booster would be the one going bad; your brakes would get harder to press ; and your pedal would not go to the floor

 

Its your master cylinder very likely. If not, check all of your calipers for leakage. Both would have the pedal go down. However... if you're losing brake fluid, it's prob a caliper or a leak on your brake system. If you're not losing fluid, it's very likely the master cylinder - extremely common - I actually think replacing it should be on the regularly scheduled maintainance at 100k miles.

As far as replacing the master cylinder, it takes longer to jack the car up, takes tires off, bleed system, then reassemble, then to change the actual master cylinder. figure 15 to jack up n remove tires.... about 10 to remove old master cylinder, 10 to install new... do the up-down thing for about 10min, 15 to put on tires n remove jack.

Assuming you have 4-wheel disc brakes, and the proper flared wrench.

Conservatively, should take 1 hour from start to finish. Provided none of the bleeders are seized, and the flare nuts on the master cylinder don't become damaged upon removal.

-M

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kickerx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I actually think replacing it should be on the regularly scheduled maintainance at 100k miles.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Seriously.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spooled-U &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... I found an excellent thread that shows its a simple bolt-on process!</TD></TR></TABLE>That thread doesn't really cover bleeding. Since you had your brake fluid flushed (didn't do it yourself), just be aware that your brakes won't work until you do that again...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spooled-U &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just want a confirmation though and also to make sure that this is probably what went wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>Definitely sounds like a bad MC. A bad booster would make the pedal feel real hard, & you have to stand on the pedal to stop the car.

 

Thanks guys, just replaced tonight and all is well!! For now at least....lol