I have an 89 CRX Si i'm planning on setting up for H1 and would like some opinions on motor setup. My BIGGEST emphasis is on REALIABILITY. I currently have a B16 with full CTR valve train in the car, the head will most likely remain untouched other than possibly mild valve job and port and polish. Here's what I think I'm going to use, please any critiques are welcome.

LS Block stock bore
CTR or B16 Slugs
Not sure on rods...
GSR or LS crank(if it's an LS it will be balanced/micropolished)
OEM Honda bearings
ARP Rod bolts

This is just a start, I'm still a ways off from actually jumping into racing, but I've been doing DE's for about a year now, and I will be running on a budget. I work for Honda, so getting parts is relatively easy and cheap.

 

cmon mang....you've been around long enough......

 

You know you want to build it for H4. You said your racing is very financially determined. H1 is not the way to go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cmon mang....you've been around long enough......</TD></TR></TABLE>

'n clearly he ain't learned nuthin'

 

Damn you 'racers' are pretty harsh...I was only asking opinions. I chose H1 because it will be fun and since I've already been able to source most of what I need for VERY cheap. Chad, I know what I need to build, what i was asking for is if anyone sees anything I FORGOT.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PSUCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn you 'racers' are pretty harsh </TD></TR></TABLE>

You're getting the finger from Danny and I just because we want the competition in H4. I can't speak for Chad.

Glad to see more HC cars out this year, even if they are in the wrong class

 

How's your suspension setup?

 

For now i'm running KYB AGX with some generic coilovers that are DC2 rates but plan on going with some GC springs at 550F/700R. If I can afford it, I'll probably go with Buddy Club, there, that's something I know Chad will like to hear.

 

ls block... ls rods... ctr pistons... 9.5k... sound like an H1 car

i would go with gsr rods and the LS crank... ctrs... toda retainers, crowers springs, weeeteck killer cams... smsp header... when it doubt just add more money

 

What about using an ITR crank? with CTR pistons? GSR rods...no problem...

 

w/o the LS crank you arent getting that extra little stroke that makes them the 1.85L motor if i remember right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MMsportsRexSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ls block... ls rods... ctr pistons... 9.5k... sound like an H1 car

i would go with gsr rods and the LS crank... ctrs... toda retainers, crowers springs, weeeteck killer cams... smsp header... when it doubt just add more money </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmmm an LS Block with CTR's is hazardous enough. Why add LONGER rods (5.394"LS vs 5.433"GSR) and push the piston even farther out of the hole? That's a grenade engine waiting to happen. LS Rods are a little wider then GSR rods as well. So you'd want to make sure there is no play.

If you plan on running an LS Block with CTR's and TODA B's or higher, please make sure your engine builder (or yourself) clays the engine and don't forget to check it again if you play with the cam gears at all. I'd also make sure my tuner was a genius and run 100 octane as well. If you seek all out power to the limit of the rules the LS Block with o/s CTR's and a Portlow Head with some TODA C's or VTEC Killer's etc... would be the way to go.

For a little more reliable stable engine maybe a GSR crank, GSR Rods, JDM P30 B16A pistons with a similar head might be the way to go. Just a thought. Either way it comes down to time, money etc... Good luck.

It's 1835cc vs 1797cc just for the record.

 

LS bottom ends = bad juju.

PM Todd Reid, he was running a B18A1 in H1 the past 2 years - somehow it stayed together.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LS bottom ends = bad juju.

PM Todd Reid, he was running a B18A1 in H1 the past 2 years - somehow it stayed together. </TD></TR></TABLE>

since 2000, mang!!!

the secret is........ (drumroll, please)

keep the revs in check! i generally never ever went above 8000 rpm with that car. also, i ran a fairly mild cam (web regrind on an ls head). really nice power and torque from 3000 on up; but max power was just around 180 whp (depending on the day and the conditions, we saw 177 to 182 on the dyno). not enough with that setup to run with the other big dawg b series guys....

we refreshed it once a year (new bearings, cylinder hone, rings (if needed). replaced the valve springs and retainers once (cracked a crower valvespring and threw that junk away. put ferra in the 2nd time and it was all golden after that). redid the valvejob/seats/guides twice.

and yes, it never let me down at at HC event. it was a good motor! its down in my basement resting now! handed over the torch to its K series brother!!!!

my only advice to you would be "be careful" if you are building a LS H1 frankenstien motor. you are gonna want to rev it to make big power. then it is gonna want to fly into a lot of expensive pieces.

keep the revs reasonable, and it will live....

good luck

 

I like the idea of LS Block, GSR crank, GSR rods, and B16 pistons(already have a B16 in the car...but I'll probably use new OS Pistons). I currently am running full CTR valve train(cams, springs, retainers) in my B16 and it will most likely stay in at least at first for the new build. Thanks for all the input guys, this is helping. The nice thing is I have a bunch of turbo friends that have lot's of this stuff lying around...so I can pick most of it up fairly cheap. They all went with forged components on 400+ HP motors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MMsportsRexSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ls block... ls rods... ctr pistons... 9.5k... sound like an H1 car

i would go with gsr rods and the LS crank... ctrs... toda retainers, crowers springs, weeeteck killer cams... smsp header... when it doubt just add more money </TD></TR></TABLE>


you can't use GSR rods with LS crank unless you have custom pistons!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can't use GSR rods with LS crank unless you have custom pistons!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why add LONGER rods (5.394"LS vs 5.433"GSR) and push the piston even farther out of the hole?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Ok, now it seems after careful thought and some discussion with some people(thanks Chad ) I'll go with a GSR block, GSR crank, GSR rods, and CTR pistons. Hopefully that will at least last me a little while.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PSUCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, now it seems after careful thought and some discussion with some people(thanks Chad ) I'll go with a GSR block, GSR crank, GSR rods, and CTR pistons. Hopefully that will at least last me a little while. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Please clay the engine. And after you've done that clay the engine. Clearance's will be close. CTR's have quite a PDD. Especially with TODA C's or similar. You'll be in the 12.4ish:1 compression range using a GSR head (which you should use), OEM gasket and no mill etc.... May have to slightly modify the valve reliefs for good measure. Should be good for 200-220ish depending on headwork, quality of bolt-on's, and tuner. Good luck. Should be quite the sweet set-up power wise if done properly.

 

What if I use B16 pistons? I know the compression(highest to lowest) is CTR, B16, ITR, GSR, LS and B20. I want decent compression(11.5-12:1) I know it's not going to create MASSIVE power. I'm doing this as a hobby right now, and I'd like to build something on the reliable side. I thought the compression might be a little lower. I have a good tuner(ask Jeff Evans ) Plus I'll be converting to OBD1.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Hammond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You'll be in the 12.4ish:1 compression range using a GSR head (which you should use), .</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why should you use the GSR head over the B16 head other than the little bump in compression? Wouldn't you want to run the B16 head so you can run the ITR manifold and TB?

 

come on make an LS bomb!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prkiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why should you use the GSR head over the B16 head other than the little bump in compression? Wouldn't you want to run the B16 head so you can run the ITR manifold and TB?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's EXACTLY why I want to go with a B16 head...sooooo...anyone got a GSR shorty for sale?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prkiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why should you use the GSR head over the B16 head other than the little bump in compression? Wouldn't you want to run the B16 head so you can run the ITR manifold and TB?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Aside from the smaller combustion chamber for the increase in compression, it is also proven that the pentroof design of the combustion chamber yields better results then the PR3 head. There's always the arguement of "well why didn't Honda put it on the Type R?". Well I can't tell you that. I am just going off countless dyno plots and of equally built engines with differences being the heads and top engine builders explanations.

The Skunk2 manifold is legal from what I'm told for the P72 head in HC H1.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Hammond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The Skunk2 manifold is legal from what I'm told for the P72 head in HC H1.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't believe all you hear....it's not legal according to the rules.