We finally got our new rally car.
Some of our team went over to Vancouver B.C. today to pick up our new rally car.
We ended up going with a 1992 Civic VX, with about 195,000 Miles on it. She runs well enough, and the suspension is getting re-done anyways. The best part: Aside from 12 years of dents and scrapes, there is ZERO rust on the car. We've already got it stripped, and are going to put it through 1 TSD rally before commencing the buildup over the winter.
Here she is, sorry about the picture quality.
Front shot:
VX YO!
Already stripped.
Hello fury!
Here's what's going in it...
Dusty but clean with only 6000 km's.
Proof is in the numbers.
6 gears and a soon to be Hondata.

A big thanks goes to all of Team 4 Rallysport, as nobody could hope for a better bunch of guys to have on a team.
Modified by Team 4 at 10:15 AM 9/27/2004
We ended up going with a 1992 Civic VX, with about 195,000 Miles on it. She runs well enough, and the suspension is getting re-done anyways. The best part: Aside from 12 years of dents and scrapes, there is ZERO rust on the car. We've already got it stripped, and are going to put it through 1 TSD rally before commencing the buildup over the winter.
Here she is, sorry about the picture quality.
Front shot:
VX YO!
Already stripped.
Hello fury!
Here's what's going in it...
Dusty but clean with only 6000 km's.
Proof is in the numbers.
6 gears and a soon to be Hondata.
A big thanks goes to all of Team 4 Rallysport, as nobody could hope for a better bunch of guys to have on a team.
Modified by Team 4 at 10:15 AM 9/27/2004
Awesome. Very, very cool. I for one would definitely like to hear about your rallying, so keep the info coming.
What class would you be in (not that I know the Canadian classing anyway...) with the swap?
What class would you be in (not that I know the Canadian classing anyway...) with the swap?
hi guys.
awesome motor for competition. i have a stock one i just put in my EG and race it here with the East Coast Honda Challenge. its a stock K20A2 Type S motor; and it can run with the fully built up H1 cars.
i only have one concern to voice to you; especially for rally. you are going to have ground clearance problems with your pan. i built a huge stainless 1/4" plate for my road race car, because i lost at least 2" of clearance under the pan compared to the B series. its low low low low to the ground!
be really careful, or you are going to rub your oil pan. and its a cast aluminum piece, which will probably fracture!!!
good luck in your upcoming rallies!!!
awesome motor for competition. i have a stock one i just put in my EG and race it here with the East Coast Honda Challenge. its a stock K20A2 Type S motor; and it can run with the fully built up H1 cars.
i only have one concern to voice to you; especially for rally. you are going to have ground clearance problems with your pan. i built a huge stainless 1/4" plate for my road race car, because i lost at least 2" of clearance under the pan compared to the B series. its low low low low to the ground!
be really careful, or you are going to rub your oil pan. and its a cast aluminum piece, which will probably fracture!!!
good luck in your upcoming rallies!!!
Son of a motherless goat!!!! Tuborg!!!!!! You can get Tuborg in BC? Holy *****, is it the dark (its the only one I have had, not sure if they made lighter beers) and what are the export rules to the US?
Oh and good luck w/ your transmission or car or whatever this is about
Oh and good luck w/ your transmission or car or whatever this is about
Guys, thanks for the comments.
As for the oil pan, we've measured the clearance, and it should be ok with the suspension we are planning to use (DC2).
The ideal for us would be Tein HG's (EK spec), or DMS 50mm (Cost more than the car), but we may use the tried and tested Bilstein HD coupled with ITR springs.
As for class, we will be in Gr. 2. It states that it must be an NA motor made by the same manufacturer, and under 2.4 litres. Modifications are pretty open, so ultimately the wallet is the deciding factor.
Yes, we do sell Tuborg here. It is fairly dark, but still no Guiness!
As for the oil pan, we've measured the clearance, and it should be ok with the suspension we are planning to use (DC2).
The ideal for us would be Tein HG's (EK spec), or DMS 50mm (Cost more than the car), but we may use the tried and tested Bilstein HD coupled with ITR springs.
As for class, we will be in Gr. 2. It states that it must be an NA motor made by the same manufacturer, and under 2.4 litres. Modifications are pretty open, so ultimately the wallet is the deciding factor.
Yes, we do sell Tuborg here. It is fairly dark, but still no Guiness!
I highly recommend the Tein HG's. I've been autoxing, rallyxing and did a track school at VIR Patriot course on them. Great everywhere!
(that's on a 2001 2.5RS, in case my username didn't clue you in
)
(that's on a 2001 2.5RS, in case my username didn't clue you in
)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.5RS rocks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I highly recommend the Tein HG's. I've been autoxing, rallyxing and did a track school at VIR Patriot course on them. Great everywhere!
(that's on a 2001 2.5RS, in case my username didn't clue you in
)</TD></TR></TABLE>
How do you find them over BIG (jump size or close to) bumps? My concern is shock blow out, and quick rebound. We plan on doing a 5 day tarmac event with the car as well (Targa Newfoundland), so a dual use (with spring change) like the HG would be a real plus! Thanks for the info.
(that's on a 2001 2.5RS, in case my username didn't clue you in
)</TD></TR></TABLE>How do you find them over BIG (jump size or close to) bumps? My concern is shock blow out, and quick rebound. We plan on doing a 5 day tarmac event with the car as well (Targa Newfoundland), so a dual use (with spring change) like the HG would be a real plus! Thanks for the info.
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Whether it was jumping the gators at VIR or running it through the ruts at the rallyx, it felt great at speed. Damping is pretty stiff, so even with the low spring rates (200 front, 168 rear), it's rough if you're going slow, but when you speed up the bumps just seem to disappear. Ride height was set at 1/4" above stock in front, and stock height in rear. Damping was set at 8 clicks from full stiff for both bump & rebound at all 4 corners. I plan to do some adjusting and testing this week, as the rallyx was held on my family's land ~ 100 yards from my house.
I've also jumped it across a 4-way intersection where the road I was crossing ramped up to ~ 12" higher in the middle than the road I was on. Tires probably came just a few inches off the ground. The landing was nice & smoooooth.
(closed course, professional driver, do not attempt, blah, blah, blah... )
I've also jumped it across a 4-way intersection where the road I was crossing ramped up to ~ 12" higher in the middle than the road I was on. Tires probably came just a few inches off the ground. The landing was nice & smoooooth.
(closed course, professional driver, do not attempt, blah, blah, blah... )
Perfect. With the price of the DMS being so high, I think the Tein's might be the way to go. How much can you bump the car over stock height?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Team 4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for the oil pan, we've measured the clearance, and it should be ok with the suspension we are planning to use (DC2).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're still definately going to want to use at least a 1/4" aluminum skid plate to protect it. And with group 2 probably would be a good idea to weld in some baffles in that oil pan.
You going to be running a Kaaz or welded differential?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ideal for us would be Tein HG's (EK spec), or DMS 50mm (Cost more than the car), but we may use the tried and tested Bilstein HD coupled with ITR springs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Didn't know Tein made a rally dampener. Other options include ProTrac, a bit less expensive them DMS. I personally will be using Hotbits on the Production class Integra, ordering it this week. I'd be wary of using the Tein's, as they may be difficult to get in the US and servicing may be an issue. If you're going to spend $2k, might as well spend $3k on the DMS, or a bit less on the ProTrac.
Bilstein HD's look to be a reasonable alternative... large piston, seem to be pretty tough... Stepping up to the HotBits rally suspension is probably more cost effective though. About $900 for the set, lots of adjustability, etc. The Bilstien HD's are about $125 a corner so the Hotbits seem like a bargain.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you find them over BIG (jump size or close to) bumps? My concern is shock blow out, and quick rebound. We plan on doing a 5 day tarmac event with the car as well (Targa Newfoundland), so a dual use (with spring change) like the HG would be a real plus! Thanks for the info.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Major issue is with the big bumps is that you need to make sure you're not experiencing coil lock--you'll want to check for rubbing/rust on the lowest of the coils, for that will indicate complete compression of the coils. If you see signs of it, run a stiffer spring. Don't forget the bump-rubbers! Even though they effectively reduce the total amount of travel, they are totally neccessary to prevent shock blow-out, blowing out the strut mounts, etc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're still definately going to want to use at least a 1/4" aluminum skid plate to protect it. And with group 2 probably would be a good idea to weld in some baffles in that oil pan.
You going to be running a Kaaz or welded differential?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ideal for us would be Tein HG's (EK spec), or DMS 50mm (Cost more than the car), but we may use the tried and tested Bilstein HD coupled with ITR springs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Didn't know Tein made a rally dampener. Other options include ProTrac, a bit less expensive them DMS. I personally will be using Hotbits on the Production class Integra, ordering it this week. I'd be wary of using the Tein's, as they may be difficult to get in the US and servicing may be an issue. If you're going to spend $2k, might as well spend $3k on the DMS, or a bit less on the ProTrac.
Bilstein HD's look to be a reasonable alternative... large piston, seem to be pretty tough... Stepping up to the HotBits rally suspension is probably more cost effective though. About $900 for the set, lots of adjustability, etc. The Bilstien HD's are about $125 a corner so the Hotbits seem like a bargain.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you find them over BIG (jump size or close to) bumps? My concern is shock blow out, and quick rebound. We plan on doing a 5 day tarmac event with the car as well (Targa Newfoundland), so a dual use (with spring change) like the HG would be a real plus! Thanks for the info.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Major issue is with the big bumps is that you need to make sure you're not experiencing coil lock--you'll want to check for rubbing/rust on the lowest of the coils, for that will indicate complete compression of the coils. If you see signs of it, run a stiffer spring. Don't forget the bump-rubbers! Even though they effectively reduce the total amount of travel, they are totally neccessary to prevent shock blow-out, blowing out the strut mounts, etc.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd Reid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i only have one concern to voice to you; especially for rally. you are going to have ground clearance problems with your pan. i built a huge stainless 1/4" plate for my road race car, because i lost at least 2" of clearance under the pan compared to the B series. its low low low low to the ground!
be really careful, or you are going to rub your oil pan. and its a cast aluminum piece, which will probably fracture!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Kinda like this??? Not sure if you guys are doing custom mounts, but this is how it will sit with OTS bolt-in mount kits.
be really careful, or you are going to rub your oil pan. and its a cast aluminum piece, which will probably fracture!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Kinda like this??? Not sure if you guys are doing custom mounts, but this is how it will sit with OTS bolt-in mount kits.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Kinda like this??? Not sure if you guys are doing custom mounts, but this is how it will sit with OTS bolt-in mount kits.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats ridiculious.
Kinda like this??? Not sure if you guys are doing custom mounts, but this is how it will sit with OTS bolt-in mount kits.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thats ridiculious.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rotten »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Didn't know Tein made a rally dampener. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Tein's roots are in Rally racing. The President and even the U.S. R&D tech are both Rally drivers. Tein has been an incredibly supportive sponsor of our team, and I am still unsure as to why people think that they will have trouble with customer service- Tein has a huge warehouse in California, and they do revalving, etc... on the spot. (It;s not like you have to send the dampers to Japan or anything)
Didn't know Tein made a rally dampener. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Tein's roots are in Rally racing. The President and even the U.S. R&D tech are both Rally drivers. Tein has been an incredibly supportive sponsor of our team, and I am still unsure as to why people think that they will have trouble with customer service- Tein has a huge warehouse in California, and they do revalving, etc... on the spot. (It;s not like you have to send the dampers to Japan or anything)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rotten »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You're still definately going to want to use at least a 1/4" aluminum skid plate to protect it. And with group 2 probably would be a good idea to weld in some baffles in that oil pan.You going to be running a Kaaz or welded differential?</TD></TR></TABLE>
We may just buy the Spoon pan, and are going to be getting a KAAZ, Spoon or ATS LSD. I really wanted a Quaife, but after reading up on low traction situations, we'll need a plate type.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rotten »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Didn't know Tein made a rally dampener. Other options include ProTrac, a bit less expensive them DMS. I personally will be using Hotbits on the Production class Integra, ordering it this week. I'd be wary of using the Tein's, as they may be difficult to get in the US and servicing may be an issue. If you're going to spend $2k, might as well spend $3k on the DMS, or a bit less on the ProTrac.
Bilstein HD's look to be a reasonable alternative... large piston, seem to be pretty tough... Stepping up to the HotBits rally suspension is probably more cost effective though. About $900 for the set, lots of adjustability, etc. The Bilstien HD's are about $125 a corner so the Hotbits seem like a bargain.</TD></TR></TABLE>
After talking to Tein, the HG's seem to be a very good unit. I've heard a little bit about HotBits, and may consider them as well.
As for the Bilstein's, we had great success with them on our EF TSD car, and for the money would consider using them again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rotten »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Major issue is with the big bumps is that you need to make sure you're not experiencing coil lock--you'll want to check for rubbing/rust on the lowest of the coils, for that will indicate complete compression of the coils. If you see signs of it, run a stiffer spring. Don't forget the bump-rubbers! Even though they effectively reduce the total amount of travel, they are totally neccessary to prevent shock blow-out, blowing out the strut mounts, etc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
On our EF, we didn't have too much wheel travel, but it did soak up the bumps. We really would have benefitted from proper springs, but were budget limited at the time.
Rotten, I very much appreciate your input, as it is semi-tough to find other guys that actually rally these cars.
You're still definately going to want to use at least a 1/4" aluminum skid plate to protect it. And with group 2 probably would be a good idea to weld in some baffles in that oil pan.You going to be running a Kaaz or welded differential?</TD></TR></TABLE>
We may just buy the Spoon pan, and are going to be getting a KAAZ, Spoon or ATS LSD. I really wanted a Quaife, but after reading up on low traction situations, we'll need a plate type.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rotten »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Didn't know Tein made a rally dampener. Other options include ProTrac, a bit less expensive them DMS. I personally will be using Hotbits on the Production class Integra, ordering it this week. I'd be wary of using the Tein's, as they may be difficult to get in the US and servicing may be an issue. If you're going to spend $2k, might as well spend $3k on the DMS, or a bit less on the ProTrac.
Bilstein HD's look to be a reasonable alternative... large piston, seem to be pretty tough... Stepping up to the HotBits rally suspension is probably more cost effective though. About $900 for the set, lots of adjustability, etc. The Bilstien HD's are about $125 a corner so the Hotbits seem like a bargain.</TD></TR></TABLE>
After talking to Tein, the HG's seem to be a very good unit. I've heard a little bit about HotBits, and may consider them as well.
As for the Bilstein's, we had great success with them on our EF TSD car, and for the money would consider using them again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rotten »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Major issue is with the big bumps is that you need to make sure you're not experiencing coil lock--you'll want to check for rubbing/rust on the lowest of the coils, for that will indicate complete compression of the coils. If you see signs of it, run a stiffer spring. Don't forget the bump-rubbers! Even though they effectively reduce the total amount of travel, they are totally neccessary to prevent shock blow-out, blowing out the strut mounts, etc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
On our EF, we didn't have too much wheel travel, but it did soak up the bumps. We really would have benefitted from proper springs, but were budget limited at the time.
Rotten, I very much appreciate your input, as it is semi-tough to find other guys that actually rally these cars.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sporkcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's awesome. Anyone have footage from racing their rally car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Here's my favorite pic of our old car.
http://members.shaw.ca/powercivic/Car11.jpg
Another couple of good ones:
http://members.shaw.ca/powercivic/Car11a.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/powercivic/03GDD278.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/powercivic/03TotemCar29a.jpg
Here's my favorite pic of our old car.
http://members.shaw.ca/powercivic/Car11.jpg
Another couple of good ones:
http://members.shaw.ca/powercivic/Car11a.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/powercivic/03GDD278.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/powercivic/03TotemCar29a.jpg
To your question about how much I can raise it... I think I may have the wrong springs or something, because they say that I should be able to raise it up to 2" above stock, but I can actually only get it about a 1/4" above stock in the front (and can lower it down until it's riding the bumpstops, which is ~ 1.5" below stock). Weird. They offer another spring set called the G-Tech, with 229 front & 190 rear linear rates (the ones that came with the HG's are 100-200 front & 168 rear, and the 100 portion in the front - an inch or so - is fully compressed when the car is at rest), so I may see if I can get a set of those & try them out.
Here are some photos of my car on the rallyx course this past Saturday (ride height set at stock):
http://kevinmallen.home.att.ne...7.jpg
http://kevinmallen.home.att.ne...0.jpg
and at VIR Patriot a few weekends ago (ride height set 1/4" below stock):
http://kevinmallen.home.att.net/vir_patriot_01.jpg
http://kevinmallen.home.att.net/vir_patriot_10.jpg
http://kevinmallen.home.att.net/vir_patriot_13.jpg
http://kevinmallen.home.att.net/vir_patriot_17.jpg
Here are some photos of my car on the rallyx course this past Saturday (ride height set at stock):
http://kevinmallen.home.att.ne...7.jpg
http://kevinmallen.home.att.ne...0.jpg
and at VIR Patriot a few weekends ago (ride height set 1/4" below stock):
http://kevinmallen.home.att.net/vir_patriot_01.jpg
http://kevinmallen.home.att.net/vir_patriot_10.jpg
http://kevinmallen.home.att.net/vir_patriot_13.jpg
http://kevinmallen.home.att.net/vir_patriot_17.jpg
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Team 4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We may just buy the Spoon pan, and are going to be getting a KAAZ, Spoon or ATS LSD. I really wanted a Quaife, but after reading up on low traction situations, we'll need a plate type.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah you'll want a clutch type... I run a quaife in the road racing car which is probably the best for that, but just got a KAAZ for the Integra.
Steve Perret (driftin4) has had a lot of sucess with his EF hatch with a B series running a welded differential, he really likes it, may even prefer it over a clutch type setup.
Obviously I feel like the clutch type is probably going to be quicker.
Running a welded diff on my 510, and with RWD and no options for an LSD really is a no-brainer and probably the best way to go. But with the FF Hondas and all the options for clutch-type LSDs you can get, seems like the way to go.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
After talking to Tein, the HG's seem to be a very good unit. I've heard a little bit about HotBits, and may consider them as well.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My only concern is that I have not heard of anyone running a Honda with the HG's. If someone in the US was Club or ProRallying a Honda/Acura I'd feel more comfortable.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rotten, I very much appreciate your input, as it is semi-tough to find other guys that actually rally these cars.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No problem. It is a small community. You're actually at a bit of a benefit too in that we're located in Bellingham, planning on campaigning next year for the Production class ClubRally national championship in an Integra GSR. Steve Perret (who had the lead G2 National Championship by quite a margin before he crushed his car towards the end of the day, has finished at the top of the overall standings with only 2 driven wheels) runs a EF hatch that is regionally and nationally competitive. So there are some Honda rally folks around these parts.
Yeah you'll want a clutch type... I run a quaife in the road racing car which is probably the best for that, but just got a KAAZ for the Integra.
Steve Perret (driftin4) has had a lot of sucess with his EF hatch with a B series running a welded differential, he really likes it, may even prefer it over a clutch type setup.
Obviously I feel like the clutch type is probably going to be quicker.
Running a welded diff on my 510, and with RWD and no options for an LSD really is a no-brainer and probably the best way to go. But with the FF Hondas and all the options for clutch-type LSDs you can get, seems like the way to go.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
After talking to Tein, the HG's seem to be a very good unit. I've heard a little bit about HotBits, and may consider them as well.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My only concern is that I have not heard of anyone running a Honda with the HG's. If someone in the US was Club or ProRallying a Honda/Acura I'd feel more comfortable.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rotten, I very much appreciate your input, as it is semi-tough to find other guys that actually rally these cars.
</TD></TR></TABLE>No problem. It is a small community. You're actually at a bit of a benefit too in that we're located in Bellingham, planning on campaigning next year for the Production class ClubRally national championship in an Integra GSR. Steve Perret (who had the lead G2 National Championship by quite a margin before he crushed his car towards the end of the day, has finished at the top of the overall standings with only 2 driven wheels) runs a EF hatch that is regionally and nationally competitive. So there are some Honda rally folks around these parts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rotten »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My only concern is that I have not heard of anyone running a Honda with the HG's. If someone in the US was Club or ProRallying a Honda/Acura I'd feel more comfortable.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Seems like you have to pioneer at least one part of the car if you're going to take a Honda into performance rally in the US. Suspension's not THAT important....right?
My only concern is that I have not heard of anyone running a Honda with the HG's. If someone in the US was Club or ProRallying a Honda/Acura I'd feel more comfortable.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Seems like you have to pioneer at least one part of the car if you're going to take a Honda into performance rally in the US. Suspension's not THAT important....right?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamSlowdotOrg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Seems like you have to pioneer at least one part of the car if you're going to take a Honda into performance rally in the US. Suspension's not THAT important....right?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think the K swap'd car will be pioneering enough.
Truth is, we really want to see what this new motor will do in an often times BRUTAL competition environment. We got the swap through a sponsor, and are looking forward to making good on our goals of being competitive, while also demonstarting that Honda's CAN be GREAT rally platforms.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I think the K swap'd car will be pioneering enough.
Truth is, we really want to see what this new motor will do in an often times BRUTAL competition environment. We got the swap through a sponsor, and are looking forward to making good on our goals of being competitive, while also demonstarting that Honda's CAN be GREAT rally platforms.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rotten »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No problem. It is a small community. You're actually at a bit of a benefit too in that we're located in Bellingham, planning on campaigning next year for the Production class ClubRally national championship in an Integra GSR. Steve Perret (who had the lead G2 National Championship by quite a margin before he crushed his car towards the end of the day, has finished at the top of the overall standings with only 2 driven wheels) runs a EF hatch that is regionally and nationally competitive. So there are some Honda rally folks around these parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The abundance of good gravel roads makes up for the 350 days of rain per year!
Do you guys ever compete in any of the CARS rallies? PFR, Mountain Trials and Bighorn are supposed to be very good events.
No problem. It is a small community. You're actually at a bit of a benefit too in that we're located in Bellingham, planning on campaigning next year for the Production class ClubRally national championship in an Integra GSR. Steve Perret (who had the lead G2 National Championship by quite a margin before he crushed his car towards the end of the day, has finished at the top of the overall standings with only 2 driven wheels) runs a EF hatch that is regionally and nationally competitive. So there are some Honda rally folks around these parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The abundance of good gravel roads makes up for the 350 days of rain per year!
Do you guys ever compete in any of the CARS rallies? PFR, Mountain Trials and Bighorn are supposed to be very good events.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How low is that???</TD></TR></TABLE>
PAH, not at all. That's the problem. Now granted it's a CX and has stock 13" wheels and tires, but there is still a GOOD 3" between the top of the fender and top of the tire.
PAH, not at all. That's the problem. Now granted it's a CX and has stock 13" wheels and tires, but there is still a GOOD 3" between the top of the fender and top of the tire.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Kinda like this??? Not sure if you guys are doing custom mounts, but this is how it will sit with OTS bolt-in mount kits.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OTS bolt-in mounts? What kinda mounts are these I am not sure that i have seen them yet?
OTS bolt-in mounts? What kinda mounts are these I am not sure that i have seen them yet?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jon V »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
OTS bolt-in mounts? What kinda mounts are these I am not sure that i have seen them yet?</TD></TR></TABLE>
OTS = Off The Shelf. I.E. Hasport etc... Meaning not doing custom mounts.
OTS bolt-in mounts? What kinda mounts are these I am not sure that i have seen them yet?</TD></TR></TABLE>
OTS = Off The Shelf. I.E. Hasport etc... Meaning not doing custom mounts.


