I'm trying to figure out if it would be better to go turbo or N/A and reach 180-190 whp. Since it is OBD0 tuning is difficult. It made 141 Whp and 103 ft/lbs, on a dynojet, in a 100 degree garage. I would like to keep it OBD0, instead of swap to OBD1. Just wondering what modifications would help me reach that goal.
My current setup is:
JDM B16 (OBD0) , S1 cable Trans, ACT clutch, Hasport mounts, Skunk2 intake manifold, CTR intake cam and GSR exhaust cam, Greddy SP exhaust for CRX with extended tailpipe, Gutted cat, Neuspeed front upper strut bar, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, Adjustable FPR battery relocated to trunk, Eibach 2" lowering springs, Venom shift light, 68mm TB, No A/C or P/S.

 

numbers seem kinda low. probably that intake manifold and tb is hurting your power. i've seen b16 with i-h-e make 148. you should be making 150+ with your set up easily.

 

you are going to need a built motor to pick up 40whp from a b16.

 

what header?

 

first thing i'd do is convert to obd1 and tune that thing. Your AFR's are all over the place....looks like it dips below 12:1 AFR on one run, and on another you're leaner than 14:1.

Convert to obd1 and start off at about 13:1 AFR across the board, see how that goes, than maybe try a little more/less fuel.

 

You can stick with obd0 and tune with BRE. Works much like crome but is designed for obd0 vtec ecu's. http://www.ef-honda.com/ben/BRE.php Ive been using it for years successfully.

 

yes, I've tuned with BRE and have had success... and that seems very low seeing as how dynojets usually read higher

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Furyof4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can stick with obd0 and tune with BRE. Works much like crome but is designed for obd0 vtec ecu's. http://www.ef-honda.com/ben/BRE.php Ive been using it for years successfully.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

X2, I've been pretty successful with BRE. Also search under Fury4, he has a very strong B16a.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

X2, I've been pretty successful with BRE. Also search under Fury4, he has a very strong B16a.</TD></TR></TABLE>


same here ive done a few b16s with bre and had nuttin but success with it.
FYI the newer versions of bre have a cel fuction shift light just like in crome.

 

i going to tell u this again its hard to make good power using obd0 tuning...u don't really c too much people stay with obd0....if your looking to have a nice fast car on the street just stay with the na setup but build it more.....if your lookin for a super fast car for street and track go with boost cause with boost only sky the limit...haha...

 

it's going to be really tough dude....i personally would convert to obd1....the easiest way to do it would be to up your compression, even though if you get an awesome port you can probably get to that goal...it's all in how much money you want to spend for your magic number

 

This is my daily driven car, I take to the strip every now and then. It just has the stock manifold right now, so no header.

Why do you say that the TB and I'm are hurting me?

What kind've gains can I see from BRE with my setup now?

Thanks for all the input guys.

 

it really depends on how much your engine "wants" to be tuned and how well your tuner can accomplish what the engine wants.

don't worry about the IM and TB right now. Those are mute points in your quest for 40+whp IMO. You are going to need a lot more than a IM and TB to get what you want.

 

well if your going obd1 go all out and get ectune. but i would just stay with bre.

 

i would look into getting that tuned...

 

IMO crome is only a little step up from obd0 editors.

Neptune or eCtune is where its at from my experiences.

A little more compression, some better valve springs so you can rev higher, some adjustable cam gears and maybe the ITR exhaust cam, a capable tuner and a couple of hours on a dyno and you should be pretty close.

What are you using for an exhaust manifold?.....stock?

A header will help it breathe and should add gains across the board.

What are you doing for an intake system? cold-air? short-ram?

My b16 made 167whp 111wtq (rediculously flat torque curve) with no cam gear tuning and about an hour on the dyno using crome.

It looks to me like vtec is @ 4900-5000rpms? I'd try and set it a little higher, maybe 5600-5900rpms.

The power is carrying nicely up top and the torque isn't dropping off too fast, I would've taken a few pulls out to 8500rpms.

Let me know if you want more info about my b16 setup and the dynosheet.

 

Your number seem low but could be the elevation and temps

Im at 200 feet and on a 80deg day i made 147whp and 107ft lbs on a B16 in my crx. Stock PWO ecu with SAFC. I had a 3" custom cold air. Some Fujiku chicken jdm header, thermal exhaust and thats it.

Your probly gonna need a bit more compression and maybe some slight head work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO crome is only a little step up from obd0 editors.

Neptune or eCtune is where its at from my experiences.</TD></TR></TABLE>

THANK YOU!!! bre can do as much as crome can and staying obd0 u can save money on buying a conversion harness and a new dizzy.u wont make no more power with crome/uberdata then u will with bre

 

But if you use (or get tuned with) Neptune or eCtune you'll make more power.

Since i've become a Neptune dealer, i'm consistantly seeing higher numbers than with crome tunes....i've even done back to back testing.

Converting to obd1 only costs around $300 (if not LESS). Whats $300 when a header will cost more than that?

Having the ability to control pretty much everything and control it properly (unlike crome/uberdata/turbo edit/BRE) is an essential part to tuning and making power and having your setup last.

 

u should make more power if you use the b16 cam. can any one confirm that, or am i wrong. ne ways if you wanna get that mch power out of your b16. ur gonna def need high comp pistons and a good pair of cams. s2.s2 blox s4, just do some research on product you think will suite you the best

 

I read through the BRE link that someone posted earlier. I have a few questions.

How exactly do I hook this up to my vehicle? Im guessing socketed ecu?

Does anyone know anywhere or anyone around Wilmington NC who know how to tune w/ BRE?

What comp. ratio pistons would you guys recommend? Mine Has P30 piston which I believe have a slightly higher ratio than the USDM Pr3's.

Does anyone know of a place around Wilmington nc that does head work?

Thanks everyone for helping me out.

 

here listen to my story......i have an ls vtec (b16 head, type r springs n retainers, stock vavles, itr type r camshafts, and a jdm ctr rebuild kit...everything for my build cost me $1500....tune with s300 on a p28....i made 190whp to the wheels...for me 190whp is ez to get to...soo think about!!!!!!!!!!

 

To bad that set up isnt a B16 *rolls eyes* Yeah its easier to get 190 out of a 1.8 its alot harder to get that out of a 1.6 B16

B16
CTR Pistons
ARP Rod bolts
Short ram w/ Velocity stack
Mildly Aggressive Cam Toda B's, s2s2,BC3+ ect You choose
Matching valve train
ITR style header, Tri-Y 2.5 collector
2.5 exhaust
Chipped ECU(tuning tuning tuning)

Should get you in the 170+ whp range

 

yes socketed ecu

i have a PR3 chipped for sale, i also work at national speed and we can tune your car on BRE.

pm for more details.

 

I made basically 170whp with a stock bottom end. My goal was 180whp and with some more dyno time and cam gear adjustments I know it would've made it.

My setup was 2nd gen b16a, head milled .030", crane stage2 cams and vavletrain with adjustable gears (+2 +2), AEBS intake manifold, 64mm throttle body, vibrant j-spec 4-2-1 w/2.5" collector, 2.5" hiflo cat, resonator and muffler with 2.5" crush bent piping, tuned on crome.

With ITR cams, I feel my setup would've made more power, although the crane cams worked pretty well. B16s don't like really big cams....unless you wanna rev to 10,000rpms.