I just finish degreeing the cams in, 98 in 105 ex per skunk2's spec sheet. I got +5 ex and +3 in...I just want to see what everyone else is getting so I'm not like totally off or anything. Total milling and decking is .018 with stock hg if anyone was wondering.

 

I'll post my gear settings when degree, hopefully I'll have a chance to do it this Friday afternoon.

 

whats your setup for degreeing (sorry i know off topic but im curious) i need to do it this winter.

 

looks like you are right on target assuming you are using skunk tuner gears. i've degreed a few sets of these and every one of them comes out a little different, but the separation between the two gears is pretty much identical. now get it tuned

 

what do you mean by setup? as in tools or procedure?

 

...using pro series gears

 

tools yeah...i want the setup from new england honda rebuilders but im broke...so curious if there is a cheaper setup.

 

Pro1's milled 0.02" .. after degree setting was +2,+2... Have you dynoed your car? It would be interesting to compare Pro1 hp curves

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerpenguin21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tools yeah...i want the setup from new england honda rebuilders but im broke...so curious if there is a cheaper setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A degree wheel from summit($22 bucks) and two loaner 7+in dial indicators(its always nice to know someone in a the machine shop industry). yo u can get by using just one dial indicator if money is tight. The new england honda builders fixture is sweet but I really cant justify that kinda spending unless I was doing this as a career.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BRN12345 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pro1's milled 0.02" .. after degree setting was +2,+2... Have you dynoed your car? It would be interesting to compare Pro1 hp curves</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope i just installed the engine today gonna start her up tomorrow and tune for idle and part throttle. Until I break-in the new clutch, I will tune for full throttle and dyno

 

Just finished degreeing mine +3 intake and +4 exhaust. This is with Proseries cam gears. Head and block decked just enough to clean up.


Modified by stumpyf4 at 4:15 PM 6/30/2008

 

Everybody's degree settings are gonna be different. Degreeing takes a lot of things into consideration. Belt tension/stretch, milling, decking, cam gear variations, the play between the timing gear and the crank etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BRN12345 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pro1's milled 0.02" .. after degree setting was +2,+2... Have you dynoed your car? It would be interesting to compare Pro1 hp curves</TD></TR></TABLE>

You may wish to go back and double check your work, your probably running the valves dangerously close together.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soulpwr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Everybody's degree settings are gonna be different. Degreeing takes a lot of things into consideration. Belt tension/stretch, milling, decking, cam gear variations, the play between the timing gear and the crank etc. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes thank you for stating the obvious

 

Ran a few races with my +2,+2 setup and all reving to 9500rpm without problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BRN12345 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ran a few races with my +2,+2 setup and all reving to 9500rpm without problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yet

 

Why are you guys so sure that the valves will hit???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BRN12345 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why are you guys so sure that the valves will hit??? </TD></TR></TABLE>
No they just say that for no reason at all :-\
+2+2 basically puts them to 0/0 if u think about it in theory.. they're not seperated enough just let that sit for a season..


"do you think the valves will hit"?

 

I am not sure they will. But @ 2,2 they are close.

 

excuse my ignorance please, but when we built the engine (shaved head 0.02") and then degreed it. the 0 setting came to +2E,+1.75I... from there we fiddled with it on the dyno and made max power at +4E,+4I.

In your experiance, what is the best spread from the PRO1's?

 

Its not necessarily what you did was incorrect, its just unusual. Did you do any valve to valve measurements? Are these authentic skunk cams? the Blox copies were said to be a bit off from the skunks and this would explain your skewed numbers.

 

So I decided to check my V2V clearance
In +3, Ex +4 --&gt; V2V=0.055"
In +3, Ex +3 --&gt; V2V=0.048"

I didn't go adjust more because I will not risk running more overlap.

Head details:
-GSR Head
-Skunk2 Valves Std Compression
-RM Gen2 Springs Retainers
-Valve Job

Photos from In +3, Ex +3

 

stumpyf4:

Was this with Vtec locked?

 

Yep VTEC was locked and zero valve lash.

I was surprised by the amount of clearance too. Possibly combination of valve job and Skunk valves is increasing the clicking clearance.

 

I only have exp with the Pro2's and they of coarse run quite a bit closer at that setting. .015-.020 at 0 on my head